Your assessments of the Kwikset UltraMax 980 Grade 1 (not the 780 Grade 2) deadbolt?

This reminds me of the 'light commercial' Schlage I seen at the local Lowes.. picked up the package and read the number.. an F series is NOT commercial..

so, MY question would be, WHO says its a Grade 1? someone OUTSIDE of KW, then I might believe it. and WHY do you think you need grade 1? thats for high use among other things.. Grade 2 is better than house grade, BUT, NONE of them are worth a crap UNLESS you got very good doors AND jambs, whcih most houses NEVER seen. especially the jambs..

I scared the crap out of someone today, they had a door lock and needed it replaced, and i said WHY? took a screwdriver and opened the door, still locked.. Told them that it should not cost over a few HUNDRED to fix the jamb.. commercial building, outside door, the CHEAPEST steel frame that could be bought, as cheap as possible, just to save a few $$$ with almost a half inch crack between jamb and door.

--Shiva--

A detailed assessment? I will not go to all that work. If you really want a detailed assessment why not contact the vendor?

Suffice to say that if installed correctly, it should do just fine. The better quality Kwiksets are made from better quality materials.

Hi Shiva,

Thanks for the message.

Very well illustred point about the weakness of the door jamb! I've been trying to do my homework, and I read at a number of security-related websites that even broken door jambs do not need to be replaced, because they would as well be (for want of a better word) bypassed - that the solution is to attach a long metal plate to the jamb using several

3-inch screws that go through it into the stud behind. For an example, see the StrikeMaster II page at , especially the photo at the bottom of the page and the kick-in-attempts video of the product at I mentioned in my last post that I had purchased the Defender Security Latch Strike, which is like a smaller version of the StrikeMaster. In reply you recommended a stronger door jamb, so I'm wondering if you mean that such products do not afford very serious security for the door?

About putting a commercial quality lock on a house door, others also have asked me why. Well, I keep reading, "get the best security you can afford." In this case, it seems to me that I could get a Grade 1 Kwikset for the same price as a Grade 2 Weiser. I'm sure that the Weiser GR2 is a very good lock, but I want to find out if this Kwikset GR1 is better. It seems to come down to this:

.

You asked, "WHO says its a Grade 1?" I assumed it was ANSI or an affiliated company, whoever gives the locks their grade designations. I gather from your response that the lock company (in this case Kwikset) doesn't require third party testing to advertise ANSI grade 1...? I came here to see if the locksmith community agreed with the designation.

Take care; thanks aga> >

Hi Roger,

I don't mean to ask anyone to do a lot of work for me. I assume that many who use this group would already have taken a look at it, and perhaps worked with it, or at least be very interested in it. I'm glad to know of the better quality materials. I like your e-signature line very much, by the way.

IF it IS graded by ANSI, that fact will be traceable..and shown AND advertised.. I see Titans advertised as grade 2, but the look EXACTLY like the grade 3.. gee..

FORGET the key lock.. the grade has to do with the part that holds the lock.. House grade- take a wrench and 'attempt to twist off'.. how many ft pounds does it take?

an example (applies to a mortice latch, but you get the idea..

does door knobs..

now, SOMEWHERE it will say it meets ANSI standards.. if it does NOT.. then.. take your chances.. to ME, normal grade 1 locks run in the $200 and up for deadbolts.. $300 and up for knobs.. these are LIST prices BTW

--Shiva--

BTW, IF the door opens IN, the last half inch of the jamb hits sheet rock, nothing for the screws to hit and hold to speak of.. and if it opens out, then whatever siding is the only thing present.. This is where I like commercial steel jambs.. --Shiva--

I'd take Kwikset over Weiser, any day. Kwikky quality is far suprerior. Aren't the Ultramax the same as the old Titan?

Good to know. The message for those who can't afford commercial steel jambs in their homes, then, I take it, is that when mounting the StrikerMaster II or similar product, make sure not to install those three-inch screws in the last half inch of the jamb, but to get them about an inch or more in instead, so that they will go deep into the stud, right? Do I understand correctly?

The jamb problem can be overcome with a strikebox, like comes standard with the Medeco Maxum. couple 4" + screws into the studs and it isn't going anywhere. Most new residential doors are steel clad and will hold up fairly well to kickins. I don't know about the newer fiberglass ones, I haven't seen any of them after somebody tried to kick them in. Fiberglass is typically pretty strong so I imagine they hold up well. Decorative entrance ways with the glass panels on either side are the hardest to secure because there isn't anything solid to attach to except at the bottom and maybe the top.

yes. ther are some special plates that were available, took some severe modifying, but put the plate deeper into the center of the jamb, where you can get to back up.. another point is pop the trim off and BLOCK THAT usually HUGE gap in solid, where the bolt strikes.. prevents a prying attack as well --Shiva--

In GOOD construction, rough opening clearance is about 1/2" on all sides. There has to be some clearance to shim in the door frame properly. If you really want it to be solid in the lock area pop off the inner casing and put a steel plate, precut to accept the lock bolt, in the gap. With the plate properly aligned, run long screws through the frame, the plate, and into the studs. Some of the better door frames come with the plate already aligned and stapled to the back side. It just needs to be screwed in place.

exactly, UNFORTUNATELY I see a lot of 'inch' gaps, and a surprising amount of gap between the door and jamb as well..Sometimes over 3/8" there is not uncommon. they got a 36 inch door frame but the door only measures 35 1/2 or so

I had to install dead bolts on a house one time on all the bedroom doors, the gap was slightly more than 1/2" and the door knob latch would 'not catch' pity too, 6 panel white oak doors.. and all white oak trim throughout the house

--Shiva--

Hi everyone,

There's been some good general tips in this conversatoin so far, but still not too much specific to the Kwikset UltraMax 980. The question was asked, "WHO says its a Grade 1? someone OUTSIDE of KW, then I might believe it."

I just came across the BMHA (as in ANSI/BMHA) page,

. They claim to have a searchable directory of certified products here. I can't do the search without giving them my personal information and e-mail (potential spam invitation?), but if anyone here has a membership there already and is also interested in knowing whether this inexpensive lock is verifiedly Grade 1 (I assume that most would be interested in knowing), could they take 30 seconds to do the search and post the results?