Looking for source recommendations; hydraulic flow control valve and waterproof junction box

Hi,
I am hoping some readers of this group could help me source two items; if such questions are inappropriate here, please let me know. I have
been web searching but if anyone has recommendations I would greatly appreciate it.
The first thing I am looking for is a hydraulic flow control valve; something a step-up from the average back-yard water valve. I have heard of precision control valves that have knobs that can be locked down (similar to calipers). I'll consider these but am also interested in electrical control (I already have flow meters for feedback and am thinking about a closed loop). 4 flow valves with flow meters built in that can be programmed independently of any other hardware would be idea.
These valves will pump water (10C warmer than room temperature) at rates between 5 and 15 gallons per minute.
The second item I am looking for is a type of waterproof junction box that I have only been able to visualize thus far. I would like something with a clamshell-type design so that I could open it up, have a device placed in it with two wires extending out of the box, such that the box can be sealed. I am picturing two grommets, each cut in half, that split apart when the box is opened, creating a seal when the box is closed, but I am unsure if grommets will work decently in such conditions (?).
The box will be exposed to dust, salt, and temperatures up to 80C. Quick removal is key. I am planning on attempting to build something like this myself if I am unable to find anything on the market.
Thanks much,
David.
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Dear davidd31415:

I've only done such with hydraulic oil, so I can't help you here.
Plastomatic will make "metering valves", but as to automating them... If you have a low pressure flow, you could probably use an "I-to-P converter" and an "air pinch valve". Sounds pretty embarrasing if you use them for shutoff, however. ;>)

Vynckier. Sold in the US by various big shops (Hubbell?). Best to contact a local electrical supply house to see what is available.
Split grommets are a lousy idea. Best to use cordage and a sealing "strain relief" or "cord grip". Better sill to have the "device" made with sufficient cordage built in.
David A. Smith
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davidd31415 thought carefully and wrote on 6/29/2005 7:12 PM: <snip>

When searching for the box try NEMA 4 or 4X as search terms. NEMA 4 electrical boxes are designed to keep their contents dry when exposed to a jet of water. 4X adds requirements for corrosion resistance.
Personally, I would use bulkhead electrical connectors to ensure a leak-proof seal instead of running a couple wires through a grommet.
Lance *****
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Changing electrical connectors is a problem, unfortunately; I'd like to use such a box to protect the electrical connectors of devices being tested. The original connectors must be used at various times in the test, and if the box can not be removed and placed over another connector in less than a minute or so the current "place the connector in a plastic bag and cable-tie & tape it together as to keep out as much water as possible" method will need to stay in place.
As it sounds that the split-grommet idea is a terrible one, I guess it's back to the drawing board.
Lance wrote:

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Check with Vickers or Parker to see if they offer something for water.
I would suggest using Pheonix Contact sealed quick-connect blocks or sealed Amp connectors ( IP67 rated ) for your box. This will not only fix your need for quick change-out of wiring, but will seal at the same time.
--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
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Are you suggesting new connectors for each device? I have too many parts to justify spending the time to change the connectors on each one, plus the original connectors are needed at various times (unfortunately). I need to be able to get the current connector (not waterproof) into the box, and then seal the box around the wire (without depinning the connector).
Anthony wrote:

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First the valves, would the diversion valves used in some domestic combined central heating / hot water systems be suitable ?
with regard sealing a wire that must be removable, this will be difficult. A possible solution might be to have the equipment on a very short lead, and build a sealed socket into the box side.
--
Jonathan

Barnes's theorem; for every foolproof device
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