Hey. I always wondered if someone could make a "pre oiler" that would
bring the oil pressure up in your vehicle before it was started,
eliminating, "hard starts".
Could a person get a pump and make one of these?
Also, what is the "banjo bolt" they use of a drain plug and how does
it work? With this it looks like you can change your oil too.
DO you know why they always use brass fitting for T's in engines such
as for oil pressure guages and things?
Your smartness is appreciated! It just seems like a good idea. It
would also keep me from having to get on the ground to change my oil
which is a real pain.
What do you honestly think?
I like the idea of getting the oil to circulate through the engine
before it is fired up. It has the potential of greatly improved
engine-life provided it is not driven hard a lot.
There may be a question about the warrantee of the engine if
such a modification is made to it.
The banjo bolt is shown in the "component" section of the
web site , as the bolt that attaches the hose to the engine.
The banjo-shape is more reminiscent of the hose-end fitting
that the bolt goes through though.
I think a better way to do this would be without the electric pump.
Accusump has done it using engine oil pressure for years. Lots of racers I
know have used and liked his unit. The added advantage is that it'll
prevent oil starvation in corners.
I ran an Accusump in one of my race cars, it was very good. It held 80 PSI
of oil pressure all winter, and would provide a normal pre-lube after 7
months of waiting. I thought that was prety spectacular, I did...
Pretty cool idea but I think it's overkill. I live in a cold climate area
and an oil warming system seems like a more practical idea. Heavy oil
viscosity I believe wears out engine components (too light in summer as
well) Now I may be jinxing myself here but I'll write it anyway, the only
major problem I have had in the 25 years i've lived and driven vehicles in
cold weather was when I spun a crankshaft bearing. That was because the oil
was very low and the indicator didn't work. Other than that, most vehicles
have performed adequately on average of 90-100k miles on them.
I cant help ya with any "smartness" though, I'm in low supply. ;)
Pretty good price on the pump. I'd suggest buying the pump
and banjo/hose combination, and piecing the rest.
The "Banjo bolt" is hollow, and drilled so oil wil flow down
the center, then out through the holes in the shank below
the head. The hose end surrounds the shank of the bolt and
runs the oil into the hose.
Brass against brass slies easly, kind of polishes each
piece, whereas steel against brass, well, the steel is MUCH
harder than brass, and the brass comes out second best.
I notice they don't have a check valve, they use the ball
valve to direct the flow and prevent backflow into the pump.
I'm not thrilled with this aspect. I can just see the valve
vibrating open or getting bumped and the oil from the engine
running back into oil pan. A bit hard on the engine.
The Aeroquip is nice, but pricey, and not necessary. Mine
uses, um, FlexLock? push on hose, with the supplied "barb"
fittings. No clamps needed, hose will have to be cut to
remove from fitting. Rated @ 250psi working pressure. Much
cheaper, you dont need special tools to work with it,
Rather than the ball valve, I have hydraulic
quick-disconnect fitings. Looks just like what is used on
air compressors, with a valve in each piece to prevent
flowing/dripping when disconnected. I disconnect the hose
from the output of the pump, connect a 5' hose and run it to
a container, and turn the pump on. After changing filter,
etc I can run the pump to fill the oil filter and
pre-pressurize the system.
anything doesn't make sense, let me know
Jeez... I didn't propose it. Accusump and others did a while ago. I believe
there's a one way valve and a diaphragm. From the Accusump site:
On initial start-up when the valve on the oil side is opened the pressurized
oil is released into the engine and therefore pre-lubricating the engine
prior to start-up.
The Accusump holds whatever oil pressure the engine has at the time that it
is shut off.
After the engine is started and the oil pump has taken over, oil is pumped
back into the Accusump.
This moves the piston back and pressurizes the Accusump until it equalizes
with engine's oil pressure.
While driving, if the engine's oil pressure is interrupted for any reason,
the Accusump releases its oil reserve again, keeping the engine lubricated
until the engine's oil pressure comes back to normal.
This release of oil could last from 15 to 60 seconds, depending on the size
and speed of the engine.
In racing or hard driving conditions, the Accusump will automatically fill
and discharge when needed as you corner, accelerate and brake.
"Peter Grey" wrote in
This system is pretty much your basic accumulator. It is used in
hydraulic systems in industrial applications routinely. I haven't
reviewed this particular system, but for the application, I would think
there is a solenoid valve that is activated by the ignition switch to
release the pressure stored in the accumulator.
On 24 Feb 2004 06:34:53 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org (Don)
vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
I am assuming that the 500 version is the same as the 350 versionas
far as sourcing its oil.
My main thought is that the pump has to deal with oil that comes right
from the bottom of the oilpan, as far as I can see. This is the
rattiest oil in the whole engine, and unfiltered to the pump. **************************************************** sorry
.........no I'm not!
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
Perhaps a simpler approach would be to wire the ignition via the low oil
pressure switch, thereby preventing combustion if the oil pressure is
Therefore, when starting the engine it would spin but not fire until
there was sufficient oil pressure.
The downside is that you are rotating the engine in order to run the
pump, but typically that is only at 150 rpm or so, and since it is the
inertial loads that dominate (I think) the bearing loads should be
pretty small compared with it idling at 600 rpm.