Don, I like the idea of getting the oil to circulate through the engine before it is fired up. It has the potential of greatly improved engine-life provided it is not driven hard a lot. There may be a question about the warrantee of the engine if such a modification is made to it.
The banjo bolt is shown in the "component" section of the web site , as the bolt that attaches the hose to the engine. The banjo-shape is more reminiscent of the hose-end fitting that the bolt goes through though.
I think a better way to do this would be without the electric pump. Accusump has done it using engine oil pressure for years. Lots of racers I know have used and liked his unit. The added advantage is that it'll prevent oil starvation in corners.
I ran an Accusump in one of my race cars, it was very good. It held 80 PSI of oil pressure all winter, and would provide a normal pre-lube after 7 months of waiting. I thought that was prety spectacular, I did...
Pretty cool idea but I think it's overkill. I live in a cold climate area and an oil warming system seems like a more practical idea. Heavy oil viscosity I believe wears out engine components (too light in summer as well) Now I may be jinxing myself here but I'll write it anyway, the only major problem I have had in the 25 years i've lived and driven vehicles in cold weather was when I spun a crankshaft bearing. That was because the oil was very low and the indicator didn't work. Other than that, most vehicles have performed adequately on average of 90-100k miles on them. I cant help ya with any "smartness" though, I'm in low supply. ;) walt
Pretty good price on the pump. I'd suggest buying the pump and banjo/hose combination, and piecing the rest.
The "Banjo bolt" is hollow, and drilled so oil wil flow down the center, then out through the holes in the shank below the head. The hose end surrounds the shank of the bolt and runs the oil into the hose.
Brass against brass slies easly, kind of polishes each piece, whereas steel against brass, well, the steel is MUCH harder than brass, and the brass comes out second best.
I notice they don't have a check valve, they use the ball valve to direct the flow and prevent backflow into the pump. I'm not thrilled with this aspect. I can just see the valve vibrating open or getting bumped and the oil from the engine running back into oil pan. A bit hard on the engine.
The Aeroquip is nice, but pricey, and not necessary. Mine uses, um, FlexLock? push on hose, with the supplied "barb" fittings. No clamps needed, hose will have to be cut to remove from fitting. Rated @ 250psi working pressure. Much cheaper, you dont need special tools to work with it, either.
Rather than the ball valve, I have hydraulic quick-disconnect fitings. Looks just like what is used on air compressors, with a valve in each piece to prevent flowing/dripping when disconnected. I disconnect the hose from the output of the pump, connect a 5' hose and run it to a container, and turn the pump on. After changing filter, etc I can run the pump to fill the oil filter and pre-pressurize the system.
Jeez... I didn't propose it. Accusump and others did a while ago. I believe there's a one way valve and a diaphragm. From the Accusump site:
On initial start-up when the valve on the oil side is opened the pressurized oil is released into the engine and therefore pre-lubricating the engine prior to start-up.
The Accusump holds whatever oil pressure the engine has at the time that it is shut off.
After the engine is started and the oil pump has taken over, oil is pumped back into the Accusump.
This moves the piston back and pressurizes the Accusump until it equalizes with engine's oil pressure.
While driving, if the engine's oil pressure is interrupted for any reason, the Accusump releases its oil reserve again, keeping the engine lubricated until the engine's oil pressure comes back to normal.
This release of oil could last from 15 to 60 seconds, depending on the size and speed of the engine.
In racing or hard driving conditions, the Accusump will automatically fill and discharge when needed as you corner, accelerate and brake.
"Peter Grey" wrote in news:XvO_b.8145$ firstname.lastname@example.org:
This system is pretty much your basic accumulator. It is used in hydraulic systems in industrial applications routinely. I haven't reviewed this particular system, but for the application, I would think there is a solenoid valve that is activated by the ignition switch to release the pressure stored in the accumulator.
Perhaps a simpler approach would be to wire the ignition via the low oil pressure switch, thereby preventing combustion if the oil pressure is below spec.
Therefore, when starting the engine it would spin but not fire until there was sufficient oil pressure.
The downside is that you are rotating the engine in order to run the pump, but typically that is only at 150 rpm or so, and since it is the inertial loads that dominate (I think) the bearing loads should be pretty small compared with it idling at 600 rpm.