O.K. But could the female's doohickey getting cocked have anything to do with the vibration from the air hammer?
[ ... ]
[ ... ]
Indeed so. And if I have a lot of something to make, I'll be sure to design it to be held by the 4-40 threads that these use -- *if* I can get more sticks of screws. :-)
As long as it works -- that is what matters.
I'm sure that I will. I keep picking up new tools (or used ones) as opportunity presents itself -- and then worry about why I need them. :-)
I picked up the compressor (an ancient Craftsman from back before the noisy oilless ones with the magic horsepower numbers) a few years ago at a yard sale. Two wheels, 20 gallon tank (IIRC). I had to take the regulator apart and clean it before that would work, but overall I'm quite pleased with it. I've been picking up various air tools since, and finally spotted the air hammer with the chisel set while picking up a wrench to dedicate to the new drill press vise (after making M10 T-nuts to fit the slots through the drill press table.
A friend had already gotten one of the newer ones before I could warn him, and I am still amazed at how much noise it makes. It is even worse when his Newfie chews through the hose. :-)
I also finally got a ceiling-mounted reel for the air hose so O won't keep tripping over the rubber hose (and getting metal chips in my hands when picking it up near the lathe or mill.)
On 14 Oct 2007 02:44:28 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, snipped-for-privacy@d-and-d.com (DoN. Nichols) quickly quoth:
No, they do it from day one. I think 95%+ of the vibrations go out the front of the gun on the chisel (If you let the gun do the work like you're supposed to) and your hands take up 4% more. If there were lots of vibration, there would be more broken male fittings. I've only had the one break on me. Others were used daily for 1 or 2 decades.
Don't wait. Just make them on your lathe, Don.
Truth!
That's the way it's supposed to be done. Looks cool? "It's MINE! Hmm, now what am I going to use it for?" And then I find dozens of uses. As soon as the tool rests in my shop (or truck, nowadays), uses automatically develop for it.
Crapsman is its own punishment. (As are dogs. My fracking neighbors have guests so the number of barking dogs in their yard is now doubled. I'm really, really depressed that I can't sight in my SKS scope on them.)
Good show, sir. -- Remember: Every silver lining has a cloud. ----
This is a task for a small CNC lathe with a controlled feed through the spindle -- and probably a cylindrical guide into the tailstock (or even hex bore rotating in bearings) to keep the weakened (torque limiting) spots from letting it whip and fly apart.
There just is not enough room between the top of one head and the bottom of another for standard single-point threading on a manual machine. Believe me -- I have considered this.
[ ... ]
:-)
At least these days. Back in the mid 1960s Craftsman tools were pretty good. I got three tenths vernier micrometers (0-1, 1-2, and
2-3) which I am sure were made by Scherr Tumico.
And I just recently picked up a nice drill press vise with the Craftsman name cast in the stationary jaw -- but it is basically one of the Ralmike ones -- quick release, slide of the jaw, and a lever which cams the movable jaw against the workpiece. I don't know when this was made, but I am willing to bet that I would not be able to find it in today's Sears catalogs. :-)
I have other tools from the 1960s which are still in excellent condition.
But -- I would not buy today's Craftsman branded tools.
Well -- this dog is over friendly. The first time he saw my wife (who is 4' 11" tall) he came up to her, put his paws on her shoulders (ready to lick her face) and toppled her over onto the lawn. No harm done, and we make sure that she has a prop behind her (often me) when the dog is free to reach her. And he does very little barking, and what little he does is low pitched enough so it is not annoying.
However, little yappers are a totally different matter.
We have cats -- not dogs -- even though I am allergic to cats.
resending this reply, which seems to have gotten lost by Teranews
I don't know of any printed or online material, DoN. I haven't even seen any quality automotive tool catalogs in years, which might show the various styles of accessories available.
I'm not sure what you meant by getting the/a (tool) "started under the end of the muffler's clamp". To the best of my recollection, clamps were always removed (by other means) before using the chisels to separate the pipe/tubing joint.
I do know that in the 70s & 80s many offshore manufacturers' accessories were showing up in lots of tool suppliers' product lines. That means that the original high quality USA made tools were being cloned/copied. Many of the offshore products were only somewhat reasonable facsimilies of the "real" tools. Many of these imported wannabe/looky-a-like-a tools are a catastrophe in actual use.
The exaust pipe cutters that I remember back when there were still USA tools around, were actually several different tools. One set was a pair of; cut left, cut right tools, kinda shaped like half of a (playing card) club. Another tool was a cutter for removing an internal piece of an exaust pipe connection, without ruining the external pipe.
I also remember that a Snap-On panel ripper tool (peels a curl of sheetmetal out of a panel with very little distortion), worked far better than the imported parts store rippers. The generic rippers were generally a waste of money as far as performance. It's easier on the ripper if they're only used for straight cuts, and if the hand feed pressure is maintained, to prevent the impacts that occur when the tool is allowed to hammer in the slot.
Another handy panel tool was the spotweld cutter, it was a slim flat chisel, with a notch in the center of the cutter edge. The chisel was eased into a spotwelded seam, and run between the panels, and when a spotweld was encountered, the metal would raise a bit, then the beveled edge of the notch would either pop the weld apart, or cut through the spot without much edge distortion.
One very handy accessory is the hammer head (even though hammers are my least favorite tools, unlike some guys I know). I figured it would be worthwhile to pay the extra money for a Snap-On hammer head, too. The hammer can usually be used instead of a pickle fork for removing tapered studs, such as tierod ends. If the shock is applied to the part the stud passes through, perpendicular to the stud center axis, the shock will usually loosen the taper quickly, and salvage the synthetic water/dirt shield. Ordinarily, the hammer accessory is only used with substantially heavy duty parts. Applied to anything that's not built of heavy duty parts will very likely break some stuff.
Some air chisels came with a (cheaper) quick-change spring tool holder/retainer. The sometimes don't retain the chisel, especially when the chisel slips off the workpiece.
The other type of retainer spring looks a bit like a beehive shape, and used a second piece inside to adapt the chisel shoulder to conform to the inside shape of the spring. These types of retainer springs need to be unscrewed completely to change chisels/tools. This type of retainer spring actually retains the chisel or tool. These better retainers used to be sold by the tool truck guys.
Eye and face protection, in addition to gloves are mandatory. Also, don't forget the ear protection. I never felt cushioned gloves were required, but I would certainly consider them now, if I were to use an air chisel frequently. Some situations almost demand that the free hand is used to guide the chisel, just try not to get into situations that result in much pain and/or drainage/loss of fluids.
Speakin of drainage, try to predict what might be in danger down-range, if the chisel should slip off the target. If the operator is leaning into the air tool, and slips, the next contact could be with a radiator, oil pan, hose (or vein) or other fragile item.
Snap-on's web site actually describes some of these chisels and has some decent images. See:
formatting link
Maybe knowing what they are described as will help a bit.
If you look at the top of the page and backup one category to "Air Hammer Bits And Accessories" you should be able to find a bunch of specialty bits for same.
It looks like just their bits probably cost more than your whole set did :)
It would -- except that only one matches what I have -- the flat chisel. :-)
The double-bladed panel cutter suggests that what I have is a single-bladed panel cutter, but I'm not sure, yet.
Yes -- this gives me a lot of ideas, though none of them seem to really match what I have. :-) Perhaps the flat chisel with a single bevel and a groove in the center might be a spot weld cutter. The rest leaves me with simply a requirement to experiment, I guess.
More than my whole set *plus* the compressor (An old Craftsman from before the "oilless" noisemaker days, picked up at an estate sale.)
They really seem to be in love with their stuff. (But then, they always have been. :-) I wonder how much difference in actual quality the price difference would produce?
You'll find the air chisel to be a quite useful tool, and if you get the chance to pick up a quality version you'll be impressed at how much more pleasing of a tool it is than a cheap one. Sharper impacts, harder impact for any particular speed and less liable to stall at slow speed. An air chisel that stalls is annoying as heck..
I've always seen the chisels as pretty disposable but good ones will, naturally, last much longer than cheap. You'll find that you change the angle on the chisel for each job (well, I often do) so perhaps there's little sense in buying too good of quality if you're only going to have one set.
As far as what each chisel is for, dunno. I just use the one that looks most likely to do the job at hand.
Bummer, you would think that they (importer) could at least copy a good brand name :)
I can't justify their prices either. Maybe if I used the stuff all day, every day I would feel differently. I do have a few odd sockets, extensions and such. Stuff I found (along the road) or came mixed in with something else. It is nice stuff, but then my old S-K and Craftsman tools work just fine too (note I said old).
I found a copy of what must be your "manual" on Grizzly's website. All two pages of it. It was really helpful to look at, NOT. Craftsman used to have some decent manuals that went along with most of their tools. Sadly I haven't been able to find any that you can download for some time now...
If I come across some useful info (read manual) on these I'll keep you in mind.
O.K. In playing with this (at 90 PSI) I have not observed it to stall.
And at least the finish on it (a nicely polished anodized aluminum housing) is a few notches up from the really cheap ones.
I expect to pick up others (probably starting which a cheap set or two at the tool table of one of the local hamfests, which is probably HF grade), since I expect to grind a lot for custom use. Not sure whether I can make them with the lathe however, since I don't have a way to spread them out to make blades, (though I might be able to make rivet setting ones at least). Probably 4140 steel, and some experimentation as to how hard to make them.
The big problem is that I have no experience (yet) with what the tool can do for me, and what a particular shape is likely to be good for. Following posted links to vendors of chisels, I find very few which look like what I have, which makes guessing what a given one is for more difficult.
And the links generally have photos which are both too small and from the wrong angle to see the detail which I would like to see to compare them to what I have.
Maybe they did -- but just not the ones which I have looked at so far. :-)
[ ... ]
Certainly. I've got good *old* tools from Craftsman and I have somewhere some nice screwdrivers from Snap-On (bought new). Black handles with a triangular cross-section, which let me get more torque than any other handles for the same sized blades. (These were from perhaps around 1970 or so, I think.)
Not as good a manual as that which came with mine -- but it does tell me that I can bend the spring out of the way to change tools, while mine does not.
There is quite a bit more detail in the manual with mine. Brand is "AmPro Professional Burgandy Collection" FWIW.
I would type in what is in the manual, except that it is a lot of typing. I tried their web page -- but it appears to be brand new, with nothing on it yet. :-)
But it does include the following:
====================================================================== Use an in-line mini-oiler to lubricate the tool before and after every use. Blow out air line to clear dirt and moisture. Place chisel in the cylinder, the spring retainer must be used to secure the chisel firmly in too. Properly adjust the speed so that the chisel is not being driven out of the cylinder by the piston. If the piston strikes the cylinder wall, it may cause internal damage. Upon starting, hold the tool away from the work. When finished hammering again, lift the tool away from work before stopping the motor. If the chisel gets jammed in the cut slot, always release throttle lever to ease the chisel free. Do not try to free the tool by starting and stopping the motor. Always disconnect the tool from power supply before changing chisel and servicing. ======================================================================
And then -- this seems to contradict part of the above:
====================================================================== Accessory retainers must be used to prevent ejection or discharge of the accessory which might harm to people. To avoid injury, the throttle lever should never be depressed unless the accessory is held securely against the workpiece. Always remove the chisel when the tool is not in use. ======================================================================
So -- should I start the tool before contacting the workpiece, or not? The upper part suggests that I should, the lower that I should not. :-)
Anyway -- there is quite a bit more in the manual, which is still two sides of a single sheet of paper.
The exploded parts diagram looks quite similar, other than details in the air inlet and the regulator.
I notice that it comes with a bottle of oil, and with a quick-disconnect fitting (which is likely to not fit with what I am already using. :-)
But the *chisels* appear to be identical to the set which came with mine. Finally -- a match. :-) Now, if only they had bothered to list the intended function of each of the chisels. But at least, you can go to the web page and examine the photos of the chisels (which seems to be better in the separate catalog entry of the set of chisels without the air hammer, even though the air hammer is still shown in the photo. :-)
But both the Grizzley and the AmPro manuals say nothing about the intended functions of the chisels.
And what I am looking for is specific to the chisels which I have. The actual hammer is pretty well covered already.
The one that looks like a cold chisel with a notch across the middle is intended to cut edge-on into the metal and the notch helps keep it from sliding off. The one with the little hook on one side is intended to peel a narrow strip out of a flat piece of metal by driving the hook down thru the metal and peeling the strip upwards. The one with a long thin pointed end is intended to be driven between overlapping exhaust pipes to loosen them.
Place the chisel or punch in position before pressing the trigger.
One good use for this tool is to loosen tapered ball joints or tie rod ends. Use a large flat tool and hammer against the side of the female part, with a backup if possible. This technique will also loosen pipe fittings and nuts that are frozen. Works with much less damage than trying to drive on the end. You can also often free frozen cap screws by hammering directly down on the head. A very useful tool for fixing things or ruining things.
resending this reply, which seems to have gotten lost by Teranews, or a Vista has taken place
I don't know of any printed or online material, DoN. I haven't even seen any quality automotive tool catalogs in years, which might show the various styles of accessories available.
I'm not sure what you meant by getting the/a (tool) "started under the end of the muffler's clamp". To the best of my recollection, clamps were always removed (by other means) before using the chisels to separate the pipe/tubing joint.
I do know that in the 70s & 80s many offshore manufacturers' accessories were showing up in lots of tool suppliers' product lines. That means that the original high quality USA made tools were being cloned/copied. Many of the offshore products were only somewhat reasonable facsimilies of the "real" tools. Many of these imported wannabe/looky-a-like-a tools are a catastrophe in actual use.
The exaust pipe cutters that I remember back when there were still USA tools around, were actually several different tools. One set was a pair of; cut left, cut right tools, kinda shaped like half of a (playing card) club. Another tool was a cutter for removing an internal piece of an exaust pipe connection, without ruining the external pipe.
I also remember that a Snap-On panel ripper tool (peels a curl of sheetmetal out of a panel with very little distortion), worked far better than the imported parts store rippers. The generic rippers were generally a waste of money as far as performance. It's easier on the ripper if they're only used for straight cuts, and if the hand feed pressure is maintained, to prevent the impacts that occur when the tool is allowed to hammer in the slot.
Another handy panel tool was the spotweld cutter, it was a slim flat chisel, with a notch in the center of the cutter edge. The chisel was eased into a spotwelded seam, and run between the panels, and when a spotweld was encountered, the metal would raise a bit, then the beveled edge of the notch would either pop the weld apart, or cut through the spot without much edge distortion.
One very handy accessory is the hammer head (even though hammers are my least favorite tools, unlike some guys I know). I figured it would be worthwhile to pay the extra money for a Snap-On hammer head, too. The hammer can usually be used instead of a pickle fork for removing tapered studs, such as tierod ends. If the shock is applied to the part the stud passes through, perpendicular to the stud center axis, the shock will usually loosen the taper quickly, and salvage the synthetic water/dirt shield. Ordinarily, the hammer accessory is only used with substantially heavy duty parts. Applied to anything that's not built of heavy duty parts will very likely break some stuff.
Some air chisels came with a (cheaper) quick-change spring tool holder/retainer. The sometimes don't retain the chisel, especially when the chisel slips off the workpiece.
The other type of retainer spring looks a bit like a beehive shape, and used a second piece inside to adapt the chisel shoulder to conform to the inside shape of the spring. These types of retainer springs need to be unscrewed completely to change chisels/tools. This type of retainer spring actually retains the chisel or tool. These better retainers used to be sold by the tool truck guys.
Eye and face protection, in addition to gloves are mandatory. Also, don't forget the ear protection. I never felt cushioned gloves were required, but I would certainly consider them now, if I were to use an air chisel frequently. Some situations almost demand that the free hand is used to guide the chisel, just try not to get into situations that result in much pain and/or drainage/loss of fluids.
Speakin of drainage, try to predict what might be in danger down-range, if the chisel should slip off the target. If the operator is leaning into the air tool, and slips, the next contact could be with a radiator, oil pan, hose (or vein) or other fragile item.
resending this reply, which seems to have gotten lost by Teranews, for several attempts/tries
I don't know of any printed or online material, DoN. I haven't even seen any quality automotive tool catalogs in years, which might show the various styles of accessories available.
I'm not sure what you meant by getting the/a (tool) "started under the end of the muffler's clamp". To the best of my recollection, clamps were always removed (by other means) before using the chisels to separate the pipe/tubing joint.
I do know that in the 70s & 80s many offshore manufacturers' accessories were showing up in lots of tool suppliers' product lines. That means that the original high quality USA made tools were being cloned/copied. Many of the offshore products were only somewhat reasonable facsimilies of the "real" tools. Many of these imported wannabe/looky-a-like-a tools are a catastrophe in actual use.
The exaust pipe cutters that I remember back when there were still USA tools around, were actually several different tools. One set was a pair of; cut left, cut right tools, kinda shaped like half of a (playing card) club. Another tool was a cutter for removing an internal piece of an exaust pipe connection, without ruining the external pipe.
I also remember that a Snap-On panel ripper tool (peels a curl of sheetmetal out of a panel with very little distortion), worked far better than the imported parts store rippers. The generic rippers were generally a waste of money as far as performance. It's easier on the ripper if they're only used for straight cuts, and if the hand feed pressure is maintained, to prevent the impacts that occur when the tool is allowed to hammer in the slot.
Another handy panel tool was the spotweld cutter, it was a slim flat chisel, with a notch in the center of the cutter edge. The chisel was eased into a spotwelded seam, and run between the panels, and when a spotweld was encountered, the metal would raise a bit, then the beveled edge of the notch would either pop the weld apart, or cut through the spot without much edge distortion.
One very handy accessory is the hammer head (even though hammers are my least favorite tools, unlike some guys I know). I figured it would be worthwhile to pay the extra money for a Snap-On hammer head, too. The hammer can usually be used instead of a pickle fork for removing tapered studs, such as tierod ends. If the shock is applied to the part the stud passes through, perpendicular to the stud center axis, the shock will usually loosen the taper quickly, and salvage the synthetic water/dirt shield. Ordinarily, the hammer accessory is only used with substantially heavy duty parts. Applied to anything that's not built of heavy duty parts will very likely break some stuff.
Some air chisels came with a (cheaper) quick-change spring tool holder/retainer. The sometimes don't retain the chisel, especially when the chisel slips off the workpiece.
The other type of retainer spring looks a bit like a beehive shape, and used a second piece inside to adapt the chisel shoulder to conform to the inside shape of the spring. These types of retainer springs need to be unscrewed completely to change chisels/tools. This type of retainer spring actually retains the chisel or tool. These better retainers used to be sold by the tool truck guys.
Eye and face protection, in addition to gloves are mandatory. Also, don't forget the ear protection. I never felt cushioned gloves were required, but I would certainly consider them now, if I were to use an air chisel frequently. Some situations almost demand that the free hand is used to guide the chisel, just try not to get into situations that result in much pain and/or drainage/loss of fluids.
Speakin of drainage, try to predict what might be in danger down-range, if the chisel should slip off the target. If the operator is leaning into the air tool, and slips, the next contact could be with a radiator, oil pan, hose (or vein) or other fragile item.
We almost have this subject beat-to-death, but I found one more source that may be useful. Wholesale Tools has some decent listings for these. See:
formatting link
formatting link
A few separate tool bits and descriptions (click on each entry for a very brief description):
formatting link
Their prices are a whole lot cheaper than those we saw at Snap-on. Of course the quality probably... should be good enough for some learning/fooling around though.
If you want to look some more, do a search on /air hammer/. They have quite a few offerings, actually a few more than they show in their published catalog. At least the copy that I have.
O.K. This second one seems to have identifiers printed on the pouch by each chisel (until you get them mixed up).
O.K. That gets some of mine better identified. Right now is not the time to play with the air hammer -- the air conditioning compressor has died, and even the computer room is running at about 91F, there is no place to come to to cool off.
I meant between the outer layer (usually part of the muffler) and the inner layer (the pipe itself). Obviously, clamp was the wrong term to use.
I can believe that.
And based on the illustrations in the on-line catalogs that I have been pointed to -- I don't have these.
That sounds like something which I would find useful in general sheet metal work, not just automotive work. (I expected to find this an addition to my metalworking tools, not just for automotive work, with is (thankfully) infrequent. :-)
O.K. For curved cuts, I would probably use an air driven nibbler (and shower the place with nasty crescents of sharp metal. :-)
For really straight lines, I would normally use a shear. (I'm limited to 24" at present.)
O.K. This sounds like my straight chisel with a single bevel and a central notch like a hole drilled parallel to the bevel.
O.K. Nice.
Hmm ... how would it work with one of those hammer-driven torque screwdrivers? (I guess that the screwdriver bit mounted to an impact wrench would be the better choice.
Warning noted.
I notice that there are also supposed quick-change holders with no external spring.
Good point.
Absolutely!
A good point as well. Especially when a vein is what is in danger of being drained. :-)
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