air tools and male adapters: teflon tape necessary?

do you use teflon tapes when you screw in male adapters in your air
tools?
i
Reply to
Ignoramus3635
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yes, or pipe dope
Reply to
ATP*
I prefer pipe dope, to avoid getting bits of teflon tape in the air tool.
Reply to
Don Foreman
I only use pipe dope. I repair cnc machines for a living..and have found too many solenoids stuck open because of a tiny piece of teflon tape that found its way to that solenoid.
But if you are simply gonna fill tires, run a grinder etc..tape is good. Its just habit with me to grab the PTF dope and do it.
Gunner
"Considering the events of recent years, the world has a long way to go to regain its credibility and reputation with the US." unknown
Reply to
Gunner
I've long wondered about this: wouldn't drops of pipe dope in the air tool be equally hazardous? I use teflon tape because it's cheaper and less of a mess--especially with air tools that I'll be handling.
Reply to
B.B.
Actually in my experience, YMMV, no, as the drops tend to bleed out through the exhaust ports and whatnot if you goobered a bunch into the pipeing.
Pipe dope properly applied has little mess. But as I indicated in my opinion..tape works for that sort of thing.
Gunner
"Considering the events of recent years, the world has a long way to go to regain its credibility and reputation with the US." unknown
Reply to
Gunner
Pipe dope with micropulverized teflont won't jam an air motor, shreds from tape might.
Having said that, I have used tape and have never had it jam up an air tool.
I don't mind doing a wipe with a paper towel. Heck, I even smear anti-sieze on aluminum lightbulb bases (scrwed into aluminum sockets) to make them easy to extract when they die. Works a treat with baby spots in track lights with no finger room.
Reply to
Don Foreman
On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 01:15:23 -0500, Don Foreman
BIG SNIP
Hey Don,
I've sure got to agree about the "stickiness" of aluminum base to aluminum sockets, especially in 100 watt or greater and/or high-heat operational bulbs. But how do you "apply" the anti-seize? I'd have it all over the ceiling, and/or track-work, and/or lamp-shade, and/or globe, and/or ladder, or, or, or, or, AND whatever else is within 6 feet if I did it the way I do a bolt or stud!!
Good tip though. Thanks.
Take care.
Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario.
Reply to
Brian Lawson
Brian, he said "lighbulb bases" (male part), not sockets. I just tried it and about a split-pea amount of aluminum anti-seize is enough for a couple bulbs. I think I'll cut down an acid brush for use with anti-seize to keep it off my fingers. That stuff is truly pervasively messy!
Yeah, thanks, Don.
Reply to
Larry Jaques
thanks all... I think that I will cautiously use pipe dope from now on...
i
Reply to
Ignoramus3635
How about a layer of teflon tape? Randy
Reply to
Randy Replogle
Don't want to *insulate* it - just *lubricate* it..... Ken.
Reply to
Ken Sterling
Oh, yeah. Duh. :) Randy
Reply to
Randy Replogle
My can of anti-sieze has a brush attached to the screw-on cap. I just touch the bulb base with the brush, smear that very wee dab around with my finger so it's nearly invisible, and wipe my finger on a paper towel -- this all done in the garage.
Reply to
Don Foreman
What kind of anti-sieze, Don?
I've got nickle based, MoS2, and I just bought one of those copper-based sticks from locktite.
Doesn't the grease tend to smoke out of the stuff?
Jim
Reply to
jim rozen
"Never-Seez" by Bostik, cat # NSBT-8. "Extreme heat -- over 2000F" "The anti-sieze compound with a million ball bearings" This can must be at least 20 years old, came from my late father-in-law's shop. I'd guess it's nickel-based because of the gray color.
It doesn't seem to smoke when it's hot.
Ah! Here it is:
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can says it's from Broadview, IL.
Reply to
Don Foreman
I put on a very thin smear of petroleum jelly. Works fine.
Pete Keillor
Reply to
Pete Keillor
On the other hand then it will never burn out and need replacing again. Problem solved and saves money. Karl
Reply to
Karl Vorwerk

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