As far as I know, you have two options:
1) Vegetable oil based mist cooling, which you may not like for many
2) A blast of cold air.
Both have powerful negatives. Mist coolant settles on everything in the
shop and also spreads chips everywhere. Blast of cold air spreads
Vegetable oil in mist form is pretty flammable. Try shooting some
cooking spray at an open burner on your stove sometime. LOL. So you
don't think a moderate pressure flood oil coolant would work? Something
like a 10 weight machine oil?
I don't think chips are that big of a deal. I've been sweeping up chips
for two years. One of the reasons I didn't implement a coolant system
on the mill(s) previously was because I didn't want coolant all over the
place with those higher spindle speeds. Now that the one mill is in a
bench top enclosure (have the base, but not sides built for the other
little machine cabinet) I figured it was time to do something about
that. Pete's suggestion about a vortex tube and a vacuum looks very
interesting. My only issue so far is that the DIY versions I've found
so far are pretty large. Simple to build though. The guy in the link I
posted earlier is claiming 15C (59F) cooling out of his design. I can
think of two or three minor modifications that should make it more
efficient with about the same amount of air consumption. Not an expert
on that of course. Just started learning about them a few hours ago.
The Loc-line site applications section shows two examples of vortex
chiller guns with Loc-Line nozzles:
The chillers in those pics don't look especially large, it appears it's
1/2" Loc-Line being used.
They also make a giant 2.5" Loc-Line vacuum hose so you can be color
coordinated on the vacuum side as well :)
Dispersing the chips is sufficient at manual Bridgeport RPMs, i.e. 2,700
RPM. At your RPM and with the tiny cutters you use the cooling may help.
Certainly it is easy enough to try just normal compressed air.
I just finished making a manifold about 10 minutes ago to do just that
with a Lokline on one side and a quick coupling nipple on top. Sadly I
broke the little control valve on the Lokline so I had to regulate the
flow with the compressor regulator. I tried plane compressed air a
while back, and it seemed to help a tiny bit, but I was turning half the
speed at the time. My poor little 30 gallon compressor is certainly
cycling on quite often this time. Would have just used my long air gun
with a bungee cord around the trigger, but I couldn't find it.
You know. This whole thread I think has gone off kilter. I probably
should have said "lubricant" rather than coolant. Even a film of WD on
the surface of aluminum seems to make a noticeable difference. I just
don't want to spray or pour WD unsupervised into a cabinet with a brush
motor spindle in it. Well, that and I didn't plan the cabinet very
well. It would probably take 2-3 gallons to make sure I had a good flow
through the filter screen basket back into the pump.
I use the loc-line mag base with a quick connect. The valve helps in
regulating the air, but you need to use a fine nozzle and adjust your
air pressure. I use a 1/16" nozzle and was running about 15 PSI on my
regulator without a valve in the loc-line the last time I used it.
I don't have a lot of experience, but recently I got a job as the CAD
draftsman at a machine shop, and I was floored to find that there is even
such a thing as water-based coolant.
WD-40 is fine for garage door tracks, squeaky front ends, and keeping
your hand tools from rusting in the shed, but I used it once on an old,
old model 13 or so teletype, and wound up having to disassemble the whole
thing and clean the little parts in a lightweight solvent; it gums up,
and I don't know if the solvent (in the WD) is flammable, but I presume it
On that note, I'd seriously recommend against using anything volatile
around an open-brush motor that runs at such an insane speed - I can't
even imagine a motor that would be capable of 30,000 RPM without flying
apart! Or any open-brush motor at all; you don't want to cause an explosion.
For coolant, have you considered "liquid paraffin?" It's colorless,
odorless, and used in those little candle-like mood lights, but I
don't think the vapor would be hazardous.
Unfortunately, the only experience I've had cutting aluminum was at much
lower speeds (like a couple of orders of magnitude) and the guy who was
coaching/teaching me used lard; Crisco would also work there, but being
more or less solid, it wouldn't be applicable for flooding.
How about non-detergent motor oil?
I don't really know much about stuff that's touted as "coolant," other
than that they seem kind of expensive relative to ordinary stuff that
you can find lying around.
Heck, maybe even "Mineral Spirits" or turpentine might be a possibility.
I don't know if this will be any help, but I wish you well; if possible
I'd like to see videos of your new baby in operation. :-)
I don't even care for it for most of those applications. It does seem
to work ok for cutting aluminum though. Knowing the anti WD crowd will
scream, I use it in the field for tapping steel sometimes too where it
impractical to use a dropper of cutting oil. Its not great, but the
pressurized cans do blow the chips out of the hole nicely. Yeah I know
an oil can would do they trick, but I've bought a bunch of pump cans
over the years and they just don't seem to keep pumping for very long.
It does seem to attract dirt when used in those type applications
Yeah, kinda why I dismissed all the mist type applications. The motor
is self fan cooling and moves an incredible amount if air. In fact I
honestly think it helps cool the cutter and work piece to some degree.
Maybe I should design a motor mount that redirects the air flow through
one of those vortex coolers. LOL.
No worse than any other candle or lamp fuel I imagine.
Crisco is awesome for that last finish pass on aluminum in the lathe
with a rounded cutter to get that nicy shiny finish. I keep a tub in
the frig out in the shop for pieces I want to look pretty. My wife was
telling me that Criso is no longer animal lard though. I need to go
look at my can in the fridge.
Basically a light weight ND oil is what I think most people used to use
ages ago for most machining. Mineral oil is a pretty common ingrediant
in cutting lubes too. I have read a ton of product labels. Whale oil
was one of the old standbys, and jojoba oil is awesome too, but
expensive to produce.
Not sure what mineral spirits is in relation to mineral oil.
New? This is just further incarnations on a theme. This particular
machine is just the little Taig revamped again. I get consistent 60IPM
if I want, but for virtually zero loss of steps I can run it at 50-55.
For a little margin for error I set the max at 45, but increased the
acceleration and deceleration. Now that I got the mass of that 12 pound
spindle off of it, it really screams. A while back I put bigger motors
on it with a little more torque. Eventually I'll get rid of the 20 tpi
lead screws it came with and replace them with lower tpi screws which
will allow me to take advantage of that increased torque and up my IPM
for rapids again.
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