angled drilling?

Two hours. Welded from scrap. But looking nice.

You can buy the drill guides or make them by yourself. Hardening: No torch? Can't belive!

So if you see how much faster this is done with the power drill and a jig, you will earn extra money. :-))

Nick

MSC sells 4 to 6 inch long centerdrills could you drill 3/16 hole then follow with 3/16 centerdrill ?

For solid stock, you start the hole perpendicular to the stock and then rotate the work to the desired angle. For hollow stock, make up a jig with a pin inside of the stock to guide the drill for the second hole along with the expected outer guide. This will also make all of the holes at the same location so that you won't have a problem with custom fitting problems so much. There are guide bushings for drills at the better supply places.

-- Yeppie, Bush is such an idiot that He usually outwits everybody else. How dumb!

I have used some of the smaller ones with great success in side load situations. Niagara has similar tooling in larger diameters which I have also usd for milling very deep pockests needing specific corner radii.

When the drill tip wanders during the one-pass approach, does it walk a predictable distance? I didn't think so.

If you grind the chamfer off the end of a reamer, would that be enough like the long end mill you seek?

Well, this isn't a high-precision task. My concern was making angled holes to pass through 1/8" stainless cable, without the holes being located wrong enough so your eye will pick it up. I think I did that. My priority was doing the holes quickly.

I'm not seeking it anymore. Also, if you grind the end of a reamer flat, that won't cut worth a damn - no clearance.

Next time I may try locating a short stiff 1/4" end mill a tad past the hole location, and milling a flat with bottom diameter the full 1/4". It will take a lot longer, but then a screw machine drill wouldn't wander.

There are a lot of things I noticed about working with the head slewed around:

1. changing speeds is much more awkward
2. head lubrication - the oil drips out much faster tilted
3. much trickier to pick up X locations
4. the tool is located way off to the side of the ram axis
5. the effective length of the mill table is much shorter
6. you get real good with sines cosines and tangents

GWE

It might be too late. But I stumbled over that and thought of you: Kennametal has KenTIP drills that can start an an angle without walking away. Their homepage doesn't give that much info (I only found the information in German, trying to find the same product in the English version failed. Seems they rename their products. In German it was called "B707". 8-/

HTH, Nick

Well, all the angled holes are done now for this set of stair rails. But if this goes well, I'll have to make 2 more just like this one. I'm planning to use a short very stiff 1/4" center cutting end mill next time. Or maybe 5/16".

GWE

Search with KenTIP at MSC direct - remember MSC bought J&L that was owned by Kennametal.

I saw more than 8 pages in the sort list.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH & Endowment Member NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member

Nick Mueller wrote: