Anti-soldering flux?

Soldering investment looks like exactly what's required. Whether I have the manual dexterity to use it successfully is another matter entirely. The part I want to re-attach is slightly smaller than the dental fillings shown in the video, but the pull base and ring are quite a bit larger. That's not a good combination.

The video was absolutely fascinating. I can now understand why dental work is so expensive. Thank you very much for posting it.

bob prohaska

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bob prohaska
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I do not; I have a very tiny butane-air torch and a small acetylene-air torch. The butane-air torch is probably too small, the acetylene-air torch a trifle big. I think it's got the better chance, however.

Fortunately, there's nobody breathing down my neck on this project. I broke the pull and will be very pleased if I can fix it. If I can't fix it neatly, I'll fix it less than neatly.....8-)

Thanks for writing!

bob prohaska

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bob prohaska

That would certainly help prevent re-breaking the tab. However, I then have one more part to locate correctly. Not sure I'm up for that.....

Thanks!

bob prohaska

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bob prohaska

I tried "welding putty" among other terms in web searches and mostly got references to epoxy-metal concoctions that seem rather ersatz. I'll check with the local welding supply shops (Airgas and Trico in Woodland) but I think dental soldering investment comes very close to being what I need.

Thanks for writing!

bob prohaska

Reply to
bob prohaska

If you solder on a flat tab successfully, then you should be able to bend i t over the shaft after it has cooled. It will be well annealed. If it break s while you're trying to bend it, then you want to get a better bond anyway . A few tries at this will still be less work than all of this barrier trea tment stuff.

Reply to
robobass

FWIW, the correction fluid made a reasonably effective barrier. My choice of soldering investment was less clever; I used spackling compound, which seemed fine until the soldering was done, whence it became clear the parts moved. Not disastrously, but enough to see. Not sure if the movement happened during the soldering, or during the several days it had to dry out. Shortly after the parts were set up the gap was less than half what it ended up at.

There are a couple photos at

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Thanks to everyone who replied!

bob prohaska

Reply to
bob prohaska

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