Bandsawing problem

The saw is a horizontal band saw using a 3/4 blade. The problem is new and is not related to blade pitch or to a particular blade. When sawing 5" diameter aluminum the cut is square for about a third of the cut and then the cut becomes concave for a little more than a third, and finally the cut straightens out. The roller saw guides are adjusted properly and the saw cuts square otherwise. The concavity is about 1/16 inch. Anybody seen this before? Thanks, Eric

Reply to
etpm
Loading thread data ...

Is the blade tension high enough? It sounds like the thickness of metal currently being cut is the key. The blade want's to wander, and only the blade tension keeps this in check.

Joe Gwinn

Reply to
Joseph Gwinn

I've seen it a few times. The chip load and friction is quite a bit higher in the middle of a big round cut. I've found it's alway been blade tension in my case. A squirt of kerosene now and then seems to help a little.

My opinion only.

Reply to
Yooper

I've seen this too, even with proper blade tension. As Yooper says it's the chip load filling up the gullets on a wide piece. A blade with bigger gullets (fewer TPI) or reduced feed rate/pressure usually fixes the problem. Art

Reply to
Artemus

A good point on the teeth per inch. I hadn't considered that.

Reply to
Yooper

It sounds as if the blade gets hot , expands , and loses tension. I wonder if a belleville washer could keep the tension more constant. Coolant might help.

Have you tried stopping the cut and rotating the part so the saw is not cutting a full 5 inches?

Dan

Reply to
dcaster

What it sounds to me like is that the blade tension is not high enough. I know that on the 4x6 saws, the tension needs to be as high as you can manage with the little knob provided -- a bit of pain is needed to get it close to where it should be.

But those saws will not handle a 3/4 blade, so you must have something larger.

Another possibility is that the teeth are losing their set on one side of the blade, causing it to bow towards that side. On the 4x6, there is a step turned in the wheels so the blade teeth are not contacted at all. If you try to use a smaller blade in there, it will iron the set out of the teeth towards the wheel. Saws made to handle a range of blade sizes use a rubber tire on each wheel for drive -- and to protect the teeth from contact with the cast iron of the wheel. If yours has the tires -- make sure that they are still in good shape.

Good Luck, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

Chip load calculation and recommended chip load for various materials on page 18:

formatting link

Reply to
Denis G.

tension related. I thought I had the blade tight enough but maybe I've gotten weak. And thanks Dennis for the above link. Eric

Reply to
etpm

You can get blades with varying TPI that are just for rounds and oddball shapes where a fixed TPI blade doesn't work that well. I think Starrett was one of the first with them, but most of the other makers have them now. That's if you're going to be doing a lot of that kind of cutting. Otherwise, get some Castrol stick lube and carry on.

Stan

Reply to
Stanley Schaefer

You can get blades with varying TPI that are just for rounds and oddball shapes where a fixed TPI blade doesn't work that well. ... Stan

I've had acceptable results with a 10/14 TPI, 1/2" blade on a 4x6 bandsaw cutting 6" wide CRS plate the hard (but straight) way. A 6 TPI blade does work better.

jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

I do use variable pitch blades. And flood coolant. What has me flummoxed is that this problem is new, occurs with different, new blades, and with blades of different pitches. So I think the problem is not related to the blades themselves. I'm thinking it may well be blade tension. The next saw job I'll try more tension and if that doesn't work I'll investigate the pivot points. Eric

Reply to
etpm

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.