Thanks for the measurements and ideas Wayne and John. Since you both said the arm measures 10 5/16" hole-to-hole, that must be the correct size (unless my saw is not really a HD10 and the other models use a different size arm). Mine is a tiny bit shorter--10" +/- 1/16", but that difference does not explain the problems I am having with alignment. The alignment issue that you corrected on your saw, Wayne, does not seem to be a problem on mine. My blade follows a square nicely as I raise and lower the saw head. Here are the symptoms that led me to think that the arm was too short, perhaps someone else can see another explanation:
1--With my saw adjusted to the best of my understanding, the blade does not complete the cut (pass beyond the plane of the saw bed) unless I set the saw head to pivot beyond the horizontal position AND/OR I set the lower blade guide at an angle (by tilting it in it's adjustment slots on the saw frame) to force the blade to make a little deeper cut.
When I bought the saw, it was set so that the head was angled down at the end of the cut (i.e. the main square tube of the frame was not parallel with the floor; the motor end was higher than the other end). This did not look right to me. All of the Carolina (and Ramco) Bandsaws that I have seen in pictures seem to end the cut with the square tube parallel to the floor, so I made adjustments in the blade guides until it could almost complete the cut "properly". Am I off track with this idea? Surely the lower blade guide should not be set at an angle; if it was supposed to be extended that far then I think the slots would have simply been cut further down.
By extending the support arm (mentioned in my original question) and raising the high side of the saw, I would lower the blade slightly.
2--When I raised the saw head to a vertical position, the gear case bumped the nut that was welded to the base to hold the tension spring, preventing the saw from pivoting to a full upright position. Surely that is not intended in the design of the saw. A longer support arm would put the gear case further from that nut. I have cut off that nut and I am working on a new spring attachment which will provide more even tension as the saw head descends, but that is another whole post in itself . . . .
3--The deepest cut my saw will make is 7.75". Isn't it supposed to cut 8.5" deep. A longer support arm would help with that.
4--Looking from the end of my saw, the saw head is at a 41 degree angle from the table. I thought it should be at a 45 degree angle, but I have no real reason to expect that. Wayne said his is at a 43 degree angle, so I guess mine may be off by a little.
Here is something else that confuses me which may or may not be related to my alignment problems: The wheels of my saw are not in the same plane. They have different flange depths, which the parts suppler, American Fab, told me is OK, but it doesn't make sense to me. The drive wheel's flange (the part that the back of the blade can bump against) is 1.5" from the saw frame (measuring from the flange to the surface of the 1/4" thick plate that holds the wheel mechanism). The non-drive wheel's flange is 2" from the saw frame. If this is truely the way that this saw was designed, then this just seems like a poor design to me.
Any words of wisdom about these alignment issues will be appreciated.
--Harry