A couple of months ago I posted some questions about Carolina Bandsaws. I was trying to figure out why my saw (HD-10, I think?--It is dark blue-green and old) would not complete the cut unless I set the saw head to pivot beyond the horizontal position at the end of the cut. I also had to set the lower blade guide at an extreme angle in the slots to push the blade far enough down. I was also trying to figure out why my maximum cutting depth was only 7.75".
I now have the saw working pretty well. I have posted pictures of my modifications at:
Here is what I did, for those who may be interested:
- I lengthened the rear pivot arm by about 1/2". (I am referring to the longer of the two arms that connect the saw head to the table.) The saw head now sits 45 degrees from the table (as seen from the end). It was 41 degrees.
- I cut the end off of the lower blade guide arm and re-welded it about 1/4" lower (closer to the table when the saw is in the horizontal position). That positions the blade guide 1/4" lower and means that the blade guide arm does not need to be angled in its slots to push the blade low enough to finish the cut.
The combination of these two modifications allows my saw to properly complete the cut and end up in a horizontal position. Now my maximum cutting depth is 8 1/4".
In measuring the maximum cutting depth I noticed that the safety guard, which runs along the square column, reduces the cutting depth by about 1/2". It appears to me that it could be bent to allow a deeper cut without interfering with the blade or diminishing its effectiveness as a safety device. Has anyone tried that?
I have also done a few other modifications to my saw:
- I attached two 10" wheels (from an old roto-tiller) to the base at the pivoting end and I attached a 4" swivel caster in the middle of the other end of the base. That makes it pretty easy to maneuver around the shop. I also added a lever that can be engaged as a leg to take the place of the caster when the saw is in position so that it will not roll.
- I bent a piece of 1/2" rod to make a handle, which I welded on the end of the square column. It is helpful in raising and lowering the head.
- I spent quite a bit of time messing around with the spring and ended up with an arrangement that is somewhat different from the original set-up. As the saw came, I found that the head descended at an uneven rate--increasing speed/pressure as the swing progressed. I couldn't correct it with the adjuster eyebolt. I tried the spring in different positions and eventually ended up adding a hinge and two additional small springs. Now, with the hydraulic cylinder disengaged, as I lower the head with a scale attached to the end, the weight ranges from 5 to 9 pounds. It is a much more even swing than it was when I bought the saw. With the cylinder engaged, the drop speed is very consistent. I am not sure if that is an issue for others.
And speaking of the hydraulic cylinder, I am aggravated with mine. I bought it new from American Fab (the parts supplier for Carolina and Ramco bandsaws) for $60. I thought it was a good deal, but when it arrived I was surprised how different it looked from cylinders I have seen on other bandsaws. When I put it on the saw I found that there were air pockets in the line. As I used it, the fluid leaked a little and the air pockets seemed to get worse. I attempted to purge the air and made a big oily mess. After re-filling with hydraulic jack oil (which seems to be the same viscosity) it still has air pockets. Ugh. The cylinder works, but it would be better without the air pockets. Any suggestions?
--Harry