Battery drill external battery pack

Have you ever built a battery drill, using a dead cordless drill, and external battery pack? For a while, I was saving a 12 volt drill that was dead.
I save it, becuase I figured I could put a length of zipcord on it, and run it to a lighter plug. Power it from the socket of a battery jumper pack.
Most Sub-C that I've found in drills are 1600 mA hours, Compared to the cheap Rayovac NiMH AA cells, which are about 2,000. could use a 12 volt pack that runs AA cells (eight AA cells, Rat Shack used to have these) and actually have more power than the original pack. Plus, being able to test and replace individual cells as they failed.
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I wrote an article years ago for an automotive magazine that said to do just that - take your battery drill and remove the dead battery, add zip cord and clips and use with the car battery

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You know, that would work fine, for 12 volt drills.
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On Fri, 9 Apr 2010 17:08:55 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
9.6 and even 7.2 volt drills will run a LONG time on 12 volt battery. A friend build a Zenith 701 using a 7.2 Makita on a 12 volt battery - and that's a LOT of holes.
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works fine on lower voltage too - I was using a 4.5V drill, no problems - the back EMF builds rapidly

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On Apr 9, 5:08pm, "Stormin Mormon"

Ive got one like that I use camping and such. I also have a 100 amp deep discharge battery I can use with it. I helped a neighbor build a storage building kit last fall. He didnt believe it when I told him I could put the whole thing together on one charge.HeHe.
Jimmie
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That's not fair!
(Fun, yes, but not fair...)
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JIMMIE wrote:

My drill battery was a deep cycle group 27 that was no longer usable as a trolling battery, but in it's crippled state it worked great for my 9.6-volt drill
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That's very clever. Is it dificult to carry around?
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In a good backpack, probably not. It's only around 60 pounds.:)

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Your mad - lugging a 60lb pack around so you can drill holes???? - you must be a lot younger and fitter than I.. Andrew VK3BFA.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Yes, but I don't carry it far, just around the shop. It's usually quicker to use than a corded 110V, and the cables are much longer, and it has an adjustable clutch which I use a lot.
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I fixed all the drywall screws in my previous house with a Ryobi battery drill, ran on the supplied battery until flat, then plugged in a home made cable and a 12 V car battery. There was no mains power until all the walls were completed. I also built all the kitchen cabinets using the same drill. The benchtops were laminated 2 x 1 Jarrah, glued and screwed with the 2" vertical. Cupboard doors were T&G matchboard inserted into a 3 x 1 external frame, 24 of them!
    Alan
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On Apr 13, 9:40 pm, snipped-for-privacy@iinet.net.oz wrote:

Thats good -works because you don't have to lug it around except from room to room. Will mentally file that one away... Andrew VK3BFA
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On Fri, 9 Apr 2010 10:46:55 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

No, but I have, on a couple of occasions, cracked open the original battery and replaced the cells inside.

That must have been at least 20 years ago. I just bought some 4200mAh NiMH ones. That is suspiciously high, though. Around 3000mAh is more common.

There's no point. Once the first cell dies, the rest are not far behind. Also, an automatic charger could get confused if the battery had a mix of fresh and old cells. In the long run, it's much better economy to replace all cells at the same time.
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RoRo

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On 4/9/2010 10:47 AM, Robert Roland wrote:

I've done that a couple of times and have had great results. Better than brand new!

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Richard Lamb
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cavelamb > wrote:

I looked at doing that once. The original cells were spot-welded together with tabs of SS. How do you connect 8 individual Li-Ion cells?
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wrote:

You buy cells that have solder tabs welded to them. Just cut the tabs to length and solder.
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RoRo

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In my case it's only the lack of getting "a round toit" that keeps me from it. I tore apart a dead battery pack for my 12 volt Dewalt drill about a year ago, with that very plan in mind. I used to use that drill to tap maple trees and I could get about 50 taps per charge. That's drilling a 7/16" hole about 2 inches deep. The idea is to simply strap a garden tractor battery to my back as I tap the trees. I shouldn't have to go back to the trail to get a fresh battery all day.
I would use something more substantial than zip cord, though. IIRC 16 wire isn't good for much over 4 amps. Why waste ANY power?--- I'd use 12 Ga extension cord wire.
Pete Stanaitis -----------------------
Stormin Mormon wrote:

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Question of where you want to spend your effort on that use - I tapped about 200 trees using a brace and bit - the old fashioned cordless drill. I've also driven a lot of screws with them, including quite a number when all the new-fangled drills in the area were waiting on the charger. I'd much rather tromp around carrying & powering the brace and bit than carry a heavy battery (or one of those gawd-awful gasoline drills some folks just love.)
I also have a 12V drill awaiting the car-battery conversion - just don't see using it for that job, considering.
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Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

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