Battery drill external battery pack

Now, that sounds like a good device. And, good battery life.
As to AC power, I know 14 gage is rated 15 amps, so 16 should be 10 amps or so rated. DC? I really don't know.
Vehicle starting batteries don't like deep discharges. If you do 25 holes between recharges. Your battery will last a lot longer.
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What's that Lassie? You say that Stormin Mormon fell down the old rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue by Fri, 9 Apr 2010 10:46:55 -0400:

Yes I have. I had an older sears drill, and one of the battery packs died. After the autopsy, I soldered heavy zipcord to the contacts. A cigarette plug on the other end went into a AGM battery, 12v 6Ah.
Draws a lot of power, about 20A.

Many battery jumper packs have a 10A circuit breaker.

You might find that the AA cell packs won't handle that much current.
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Yes I have. I had an older sears drill, and one of the battery packs died. After the autopsy, I soldered heavy zipcord to the contacts. A cigarette plug on the other end went into a AGM battery, 12v 6Ah.
CY: Now, that sounds good.
Draws a lot of power, about 20A.
CY: Did you measure it?

Many battery jumper packs have a 10A circuit breaker. CY: I can believe that.

You might find that the AA cell packs won't handle that much current.
CY: Well, that's very possible. I had not thought of that.
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What's that Lassie? You say that Stormin Mormon fell down the old rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue by Sat, 10 Apr 2010 09:58:55 -0400:

The whole rig is heavier, but it lightened up the drill a lot.

Yep. Current varies with load. 20A was the highest I got it with a quick test. Might be more with a bigger load or different drill. I think you could do some light drilling with a 10A limit.

You can open them up and add heaver wire and a bigger breaker, or make up a lighter socket that you can attach to the jumper clamps.

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On Apr 10, 12:46 am, "Stormin Mormon"

Yep, would work - but why? - you've bypassed the fundamental design objective of a "Cordless" drill. If you have to put up with cables all over the place, use a mains powered one. But I must admit, theres one glaring exception - using a modded one to raise and lower the stabilisers on your caravan/rv. Beats winding 4 of them by hand, cheap enuff so theres no major drama if it breaks/goes walkies. NiCads - here at any rate, they are too expensive to replace a pack with brand name cells. Too much, considering the cost of a new drill, usually with 2 batteries nowadays. (And salvage rights on the old ones - )
And in a reply to your query re my post, I dont want the chuck, I wanted the motor and the control electronics to build a power feed for my mini-mill. Combining 2 net references - one guy used the cordless drill motor and slightly modified the speed controls, another person came up with a nifty coupling that could be easily engaged/disengaged.
Got the housing built, and the motor mounts as well, need to machine the drive coupling to the mill lead screw. No precision, just power feed and rapid traverse, so any slop isn't a problem....
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Andrew, would you share a link to the nifty coupler? I've seen some DIY power feeds, but I haven't noticed a coupler that's easy to dis/engage.
Thanks
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WB
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"Andrew VK3BFA" < snipped-for-privacy@wia.org.au> wrote in message
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The advantage is for example when you're replacing an electric socket. The next nearest one is 20 feet away, and you're going down the hall, changing sockets. Running a cord is a PIA, but a short cord to a battery pack is fine.
Thanks for the note on why removing a chuck.
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I've had moments when I'm away from a power socket. But, a short cord to battery pack would be no big concern.
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Yep, for 2 reasons..... Your a professional Gunner - it is expected you have a working cordless drill. And if your going to drill more than a few little holes, then you have to use a powered drill anyway. Your power cables should be on reels for easy deployment/recovery anyway, so its no great drama to run them out. In the back of your truck, near the back door for easy access. I found that the plastic spools that MIG wire comes on are great, fairly bit internal diameter so don't crimp or stress the cable.
Andrew VK3BFA.
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Gunner Asch wrote:

It does have a lingering stench, doesn't it?
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