Best hold in thin alumium?


    [ ... ]

    Yep.

    [ ... ]

    :-)
    If they had just photographed from a bit more of an angle, to show the shape of the Rivnuts, it would have been a big help. The tool could also be used with Nutserts, however. Just a bit different amount of crimp travel.
    [ ... ]

    I've experienced the too high alcohol intake problem in a family member (who is no longer with us.)

    Yep. Just as though they were *designed* to do a good job. :-)

    As an inspector, I'll bet.
    [ ... HF Rivnut set ... ]

    Probably so. I know that in crimp terminal sets, I commonly use red (22-18 ga), Blue (16-14), and Yellow (12-10), and occasionally small yellow (28-24 IIRC), along which much less frequent (and not to be found in most kits) Red (8), Blue (6), and I have crimpers and a few examples of Yellow (4), Red (2), Blue (0), Yellow (2-0), red (3-0) and blue (4-0) all of those with hydraulic crimp heads. The small yellow are also not in the kits. But there are *never* enough crimp terminals in the kits to even finish a typical project. (Not to mention not enough of a given ring size or forked terminal size to cover the project, either. And I expect the same from Rivnut kits. Occasionally, I've found boxes of 1000 of a given size, like 6-32. But for many years, I've had a few of a given size, and had to scrimp on where I used them.

    Well ... the lever tools from B.F.Goodrich were designed to bottom easily, and if you first set the nose projection properly, nobody could squeeze it too hard, because the 1/3 round handle would nest against the fully-round handle. The leverage was over-center at that point, so it did not take a strong operator, and it could not be over-done. On the crimper in the HF kit (as well as many sold on eBay), I don't see any such travel limit, so over-tightening is too likely. (But it may not have enough leverage to make that easy. :-)
    Ideally, someone else (who knows what s/he is doing, sets the projection of the nose on the tools for a particular project, and then the assembly people just put each Rivnut in properly without trouble. (Another reason for having spares is to get the tool set just right, which requires a few test rivets to be expended. :-)
    [ ... ]

    So -- countersunk Rivnuts with the anti-rotation key -- and the corresponding notching tool.
    [ ... ]

    I used the anti-sieze on the plugs in my MGA, which was fairly difficult to get to. :-)
    Enjoy,         DoN.
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wrote:

Low budget photog.

Ours, too. One aunt, an alky who I dearly loved, accidentally shot her husband who had broken into the bathroom where she was going to commit suicide. She accomplished it a week later. Sad.

Yeah, almost, huh? ;)

I've done my share of balling up thin wire, putting in a few drips of solder, and making the 20ga wire fit the 10ga connector when the proper terminal wasn't available.

I 'spect you're right.

Nah, not if you're GOOD. <polishes fingernails on chest>

I rode in an MGTD to the QA job we were talking about. There was a gaping hole in the floorboard on the passenger side which made rainy days interesting. I'm sure glad we didn't live in England at the time. SoCal was bad enough. Heck, it got down to 40 there sometimes, in the middle of winter!
Knowing what I know now, I'd have helped him fit and weld in a new floorboard.
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    [ ... HF Rivnut tool (sorta) ... ]

    Low budget, and nobody present who knew what angle of view would give the customer information which s/he needs. (But then again, isn't that HF's basic principle of operation? :-)
    If *I* had been photographing it, I would have included one photo showing the side view of a brand new Rivnut sitting beside one which had just been crimped (without the sheet metal to obscure the view), so people could see how it is supposed to work. :-)
    [ ... ]

    Ouch! Accidentally? She was going to use the gun to commit suicide? And when he broke in, he startled her enough so the weapon discharged?
    In the case I mentioned, there were no firearms present. She fell and broke a hip, then bailed out of the rehab place early so she could get home to her alcohol and tobacco.
    Later, in the nursing home, she re-broke the hip, and when on the operating table that time, her heart stopped and was restarted, but there was no brain function left. The heart kept running for another week and a half.
    [ ... switch over to crimp tool from Rivnuts ... ]     

    Since the standards for military projects allow two or three smaller wires in a larger terminal, you can get away with folding a wire double or triple before crimping. I've been known to do that. One of the reasons why I like to have the small yellow (26-22 ga without checking what is stamped on the crimpers. (I Just took a set of them downstairs to the electronics shop earlier today, so I can't *easily* check. (But the red ones sort of vary -- the older crimpers are marked 22-16 Ga, but later ones and later terminals are marked 22-18 Ga -- eliminating the overlap with the next size up (blue).
    [ ... Back to Rivnuts .. ]

    Maybe -- but I know that I sometimes need to try a couple, especially if it has been a while since I last used it, and don't remember what thickness metal it was set for, and what grip range Rivnut, too. :-)
    [ ... and Anti-seize ... ]

    Hmm ... that would to have worked for the MGA. The foorboards are plywood, screwed down over lips on the trans tunnel, and into welded on nuts on the bottom of the raill, where they could rust in place.
    The manual had you pull the seats, floorboards, and trans tunnel to access changing the clutch. I did it that way *once*, and then figured out how to do it leaving all of that in there.
    And -- on my first one (a '57) -- someone before had replaced the official rear hanger for the muffler with a standard US one, which broke, bowing the exhaust tube up into contact with the plywood, which charred and sent an undesirable smell into the cockpit. Luckily, this was winter, and I pulled off and dumped some handfuls of snow on it, then I smashed a tin can flat and put it between the pipe and the floorboard, so I could get home and fix it *right*. :-) (I went to the local dealer and bought the proper support bracket -- and I think that was the only Whitworth hardware on the car. I had to use a crescent wrench on it. :-)
    Enjoy,         DoN.
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wrote:

I think you could apply that to the vast majority of bidnesses alive today. They saved money by doing it in-house, using clueless morons who get minimum wage. "Why are my customers bailing?" they whine. C'est la guerre, oui?

He grabbed it and it went off in the struggle.

Wow. Now -that- is addiction...

That's what you get, using those januwine RivNuts instead of the more superiorer Chiwanese import thingies.

Indeed.

Isn't it fun, having to use 3 different style-sets of tools on one vehicle?
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On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 22:05:27 -0700, Larry Jaques

Known to the rest of the world as an "english wrench" and to the Brits as a "french wrench" AKA a "fitzall" or a "damnit wrench"

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    [ ... ]

    When a friend and I used to do a lot of work on our cars, we would commonly say "Please pass the (bigger/smaller) metric", meaning the Crescent -- even though nothing on our cars was Metric. :-)
    Enjoy,         DoN.
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I have a genuine left-handed adjustable wrench, "A Quality Product from India". The adjusting nut has a left-hand thread. jsw
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    [ ... ]

    S!
    [ ... ]

    Ouch!
    [ ... ]

    Unfortunately, yes.

    [ ... ]

    :-)
    [ ... ]

Typo correction ------------^^^
    [ ... ]

    Well ... back in those days, they didn't need metric at least. My first metric socket set I got for the little 50 cc Honda which I used on a field trip in Arizona.
    Enjoy,         DoN.
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I dunno... I bought a 1957 Fiat 1200 Spyder in 1967. There were a lot of VWs on the road then, but not much else 'foreign'. The Fiat (remember, from 1957) was ALL metric; not a single Imperial fastener on it.
Even with three VW shops in the county, we played hell finding a local auto parts shop that carried enough metric tools to make up a 'full set'. And BOY, did that motor need tools! It blew up _something_ about every 1200 miles (maybe that's why they called the model "the 1200"???), and no head gasket had ever been known to last on one of those engines for more than 5000 miles.
Lloyd
Lloyd
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On 2013-10-29, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote:

    Well ... yes -- but that was French (or was it Italian?). I would have been very surprised if they had used a single Whitworth. :-)
    I was talking specifically about the MGA series -- 1500, 1600, and 1600 MK II ('56 trough about '63, IIRC).
    Earlier MGs used a lot more Whitworth, and later ones I don't know about, but it would not surprise me if they added metric to the collection.

    Never worked on one of those. I got the full set of 3/8" drive Metric sockets (used) in Arizona back around 1964 or so for the little 50 cc Honda.
    Enjoy,         DoN.
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    [ ... ]

    Not intended as a distrust of *you* -- just that I understand how many ways an e-mail can be corrupted before it reaches me.
    It is good to protect from *incoming* problems. but as an assurance that the *outgoing* e-mail is still virus-free by the time it gets to me -- that is a different game. :-) I usually get a chuckle out of e-mails that I get which claim to be safe because of checking at the sending side. It always could have been infected on the way through the net to my system -- or it could have been forged by someone else (including your "From: " and most of the other headers.
    About the only time I might accept that as valid is if it used cryptographic signatures on the whole e-mail body, and also signed (cryptgraphically) as from someone who I trusted -- and who I trusted to not get his system infected. :-) As far as I can see, avast does not have provisions for cryptographic signatures to assure that the body of the e-mail (or usenet posting) is unaltered.
    Enjoy,         DoN.
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wrote:

True indeed. But..Avast has a pretty good reputation of not lying about their ability to provide protection.
Its not like Bobs Bait and AntiVirus
Gunner
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On 11/2/2013 2:06 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:

I had that for a while. Kept having beer cans appear in my fridge.
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Did the OP ever tell us what s/he did with the sliding door? Or, would that be too shocking for this list?
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On 10/22/2013 10:33 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

I'm surprised you didn't recommend Boogers! They work for ALL those pesky fastening jobs!
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On Tuesday, October 22, 2013 11:28:27 PM UTC-7, Tom Gardner wrote:

Following along that line of thought... how about Gorilla Snot Adhesive, Epoxy, or even Double Back tape?
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On 10/23/2013 3:51 AM, BottleBob wrote:

Some of that tape is stronger than the base material. They hold war planes together with it. They should make "Booger Tape"!
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On 10/23/2013 2:28 AM, Tom Gardner wrote:

You know, if we have Godwin's law, and Young's Law. There ought to be a law about boogers. Perhaps we can begin the early drafts of writing such? TG's Law, maybe?
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On 10/23/2013 7:43 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

The company that makes "Duck Tape" is just down the street. I'll approach them about making "Booger Tape".
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On 10/23/2013 12:53 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:

Then you can be wealthy, in addition to intelligent. You're a good example for the rest of us.
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