Hey Iggy!

Greetings Igor,
I left you a message on the phone about a Fanuc part for sale. The
part in question is: Fanuc Power Unit A14B-0067-B002-0. Do you still
have this part? If so how much is it? Can you let me know ASAP?
Thanks,
Eric
Reply to
etpm
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It was sold for $420
Reply to
Ignoramus4784
Eric, pretty sure the -B001 versions are directly interchangeable, they're more reliable and also are easier to service.
Also. the A14B-0061 will probably interchange as well, I'll try and get you the max output ratings for each section tomorrow.
FWIW, the most common failure mode on those is electrolytic caps go bad and eventually one section goes out on overcurrent...typically you can remove the three power supply plugs from the main board and power up the supply in isolation, typ0ically there is a jumper for each voltage, remove each one in turn to determine which section is giving you the problem.
I've got a spare -0067 I can loan you if you want but after losing the bubble a couple times I began to suspect there was something going on with that particular unit so it was replaced and I suggest you probably shouldn't take me up on the offer if your machine also uses bubble memory.
If this is for a Fanuc series 6** system, I've got quite a bit of troubleshooting experience under my belt--feel free to get a hold of me if you got any questions...
Reply to
PrecisionmachinisT
THe power supply in question is for a 3T control. It is not putting out power on any of the outputs. Another one I have, that is older by 4 years and is a different part number was working fine but then the -15 volt output dropped to -10 volts. I got a new 7915 reg and installed it this morning. I ordered new caps for the unit but when I got them only 4 of the 9 caps were the correct values. I replaced them and will be testing the unit in a little while. I'll let you know what the outcome is. Eric
Reply to
etpm
I have now been running the older power supply for a few hours after replacing the 7915 voltage regulator. The machine is working fine. I still need to get the original power supply repaired. I would like to repair it myself if possible so that I understand what goes wrong in the thing and can then fix it again in a hurry if need be. Before it failed completely it would work if I kept pressing the start button on the machine. After several presses the machine would stay on. Then it just died while the machine was running. Now when powered up on the bench it looks like all the outputs are dead. I suppose I could try replacing all the electrolytic caps and the voltage regulators and then see what happens. If I send it out for repair the price won't change if I mess with it first. Eric Eric
Reply to
etpm
Thre are people who fix that stuff. The only problem is, repair will cost you more than I normally pay for those machines at auctions.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus28368
There's a couple of fuses right there where the power comes in.
When you power the input unit up, it applies power to the actual power supply but if there's an abnormal condition then the input unit shuts the power off again.
Removing each jumper in turn will allow you to isolate which voltage is abnormal, ( IE, if the unit repeatedly shuts down unless the jumper for +5v buss is removed, this means that the problem is in the +5V section of the power supply)
If you have a scope you can for ripple--jump PA and PB together, this will fool the input unit into thinking that everything is normal and so instead of disconnecting, it'll continue to apply mains power to the power supply unit even in the presence of an abnormal condition.
The usual power supply for the 2ta 3ta and 3tc is the A14B-0061, the -0067 from the series 6 controller, and it's considered a bolt-in an upgrade for the 3t.
The -0061 output specs are as follows:
+5V 11a +24V 3a +15V .3A -15V .3A
I'll get you the specs for the -0067 tomorrow.
I've got a spare manual for the 3T C if you need one, I'll let it go cheap

Reply to
PrecisionmachinisT
Sounds like a shorted cap on the -15V side
It's not critical, they're just filter caps, they're usually parralleled together in pairs or quads...for my own use, I usually just clip em all out and remotely mount single caps that reflect the total capacitance value for each group.
But you're not one of them.
You have absolutely no idea whether the unit you're selling is in servicable condition.
--it costs about $10.00 to refurbish these.
Reply to
PrecisionmachinisT
"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message news:Ns-dnaNG-s1I0_HPnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@scnresearch.com...
If the electrolytics can be isolated they may be salvageable.
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I just revived the dead AC electrolytic in a 1950's antenna rotor by charging it with 1mA (both ways) until it reached its rated voltage and the leakage fell below 100uA, which took a few hours. I use current limited lab-type supplies, a home-made one in that case, or the hand-cranked megger I mentioned a while ago for higher voltages and lower capacitance. jsw
Reply to
Jim Wilkins
"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message news:Ns-dnaNG-s1I0_HPnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@scnresearch.com...
The -0067
Okay, the above were actually for the -0067 which is the stock unit for the series 2T,, 3M, 3T-A, 3T-C and possibly others.
I've listed below the specs for the -0061 which is used on the 6M 6T, and possibly others below:
A14B-0061-B001: +5V 28~30A +24V 5~6A +15V 1.5A -15V .2A
A14B-0061-B002: +5V 31~35A +24V 4.5~5.5A +15V 1.2A -15V 1.7A
Anyways, as can be seen, both versions of the -0061 have a higher capacity at every output voltage as compared to the -0067 unit, and all of these have the same cable config and mounting footprint.
Again, the reason I prefer the -B001 version over the -B002 is mostly due to it's easier servicability; it's an earlier release and so most of the discrete components (including electrolytic caps) are mounted on a chassis instead of on the actual card.

Reply to
PrecisionmachinisT
One other thing....
I already have spares sitting around that I've bought at real auction and have reburbished in house, generally for 75 bucks or less, (instead of using "buy it now) but if I was in a pinch, I'd probably buy this one:
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Reason being, the wires on it are all clipped off meaning that it was taken from service (although it might STILL be bad) whereas if the wires are all neatly disconnected, it's a crap shoot...could be a trade-in unit that never ended up getting fixed that's been sitting on a "refurbisher's" shelf for close to three decades now...
Reply to
PrecisionmachinisT

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