Best tricks in the shop

Dec 03, 2004 30 Replies

They offer the distinct advantage of not rounding the cutting edge (assuming you use them properly). Using a belt sander for sharpening tools has its drawbacks. Beause belts don't run exactly tight and flat, they tend to roll ever so slightly right at the point of contact with the item being sanded.. That has the effect of reducing the desired clearance angle, or slightly rounding the relief at the cutting edge, making the tool not cut as easily. I do not recommend a belt for sharpening cutters, even though I, too, use one occasionally. They cut cooler by a long shot, but not as well as a wheel where the ground form is concerned. .

That's in reference to brazed carbide (lathe) tools, something I used to use in quantity, and still do when I run my lathe, and even my mill, when using a fly cutter. As the carbide is sharpened, the amount of overhand it has with the steel shank goes away, so you have to grind away more of the steel to avoid touching the diamond wheel with the shank. Clear?

You likely have NOT seen what I'm discussing. The vast majority of the diamond wheels you'll find in places like HF have a metallic matrix. Wheels like that are great for certain applications, but not to good for sharpening carbide. Resinoid bonded wheels have a general dark brown appearance, and the diamond is contained within the brown area. It varies in thickness, but the type I use has a 1/8" thick matrix/diamond layer.

H

I just use a center drill for the same purpose. There's always one handy.

Pete Stanaitis

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Korny wrote:

I've got several drum switches, but the motor is a single-voltage single-direction -- no provisions for reversing the start winding at the terminal box. Just two wires plus ground from the power line into the motor. (I might be able to dig into the motor and get better access -- but I also want the variable speed capability, so the VFD and a three-phase motor are the way I want to go.

Also -- a drum switch with a single phase motor can't "plug" reverse. You switch quickly from forward to reverse and it keeps going forward, as the centrifugal switch does not close until it is near a stop (20% of full speed or so). Thus it would be pretty useless for reversing a tap -- so it is just as well that I have the TapMatic heads which do it for me with the spindle continuing to run forward.

Enjoy, DoN.

And, here is one of the places where the Drill Doctor really wins, as it does have a diamond wheel. (Which is there because it is also sold to sharpen the carbide masonry drills.)

It is really a poor choice for steels, and I wonder how HSS does with it. How much iron is in the typical HSS? Normally, steel loves to absorb carbon, and it eats diamond grinding wheels for lunch. So this is certainly a bad choice if you still have and carbon steel drill bits.

Enjoy, DoN.

snip---

I've always wondered how fast they run the wheel. I've owned a Darex for years, so I have no experience beyond it aside from the years of hand sharpening, including carbide drills on a diamond wheel. I have to believe it's fairly slow in the way of SFPM. Otherwise it wouldn't be good for HSS and carbon steel, as you've alluded below.

According to a spec sheet in my Jorgensen stock list, alloy content of the typically available HSS is somewhere between 18% and about 25%, leaving plenty of room for iron. Rex AA (Crucible) includes .75% carbon, 4% chromium, 18% tungsten and 1% vanadium. I certainly wouldn't want to introduce any of that to a diamond wheel that was creating red heat at the diamonds.

Harold.

[ ... ]

Well ... it is too late tonight, but I'll mark this as unread, and take the StroboTac down to check its speed (unloaded) tomorrow.

Enjoy, DoN.

On Sat, 4 Dec 2004 20:31:43 -0800, "Harold & Susan Vordos" calmly ranted:

Since most of my metalwork consisted of either sheetmetal or soft irons/steels/aloonimumz, it hadn't mattered as much in the past. But I know I probably won't be hand sharpening end mill bits.

Oh, physically. Gotcha. I thought you meant some sort of tempering or stress relieving there.

I probably haven't seen the quality stuff you use, but I have some of these resinoid jobbers, bought recently but not yet used:

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And I've seen these, which I think are similar to yours:
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snip---- .

That should have said "overhang", not overhand. Still, I think you get the idea.

Cool! I wasn't aware of them. Yep, that's what you need for toolbits, but not hand types. I'm talking about wheels. (I'll get a set of these next time I'm at HF!)

This tiny guy is really neat, but the type used for sharpening toolbits is a type D6WHC, or similar. The diamond layer is on the side, not the periphery. You need a flat face for good tool grinding, the convex surface on a tiny wheel like that wouldn't be a very good idea because it weakens the carbide too much (because of the small radius) below the edge. The wheel I use is 6" diameter, but you have the general idea. Wheels like the one I have are used on a purpose built grinder and generally have a coolant supply. An adjustable table permits setting angles so you get precise grinds. That's a typical carbide grinder, at least for lathe tools.

H

O.K. It is now measured.

I get 2500 RPM, and the diameter is 1.259" (32mm). so we get:

824 SFM.

And since it is a DC motor, that is simply the speed under no load. Any load would make it slower.

Enjoy, DoN.

On Sun, 5 Dec 2004 12:07:29 -0800, "Harold & Susan Vordos" calmly ranted:

Yes, I had.

Have any of youse guys tried the Veritas diamond sharpening system, or the Makita wet grinders? They use flat diamond plates/discs which are horizontal and the tool is jigged to ride on top. The Veritas was made specifically for woodworking, but I don't see why it wouldn't work for the more open-faced tooling.

(Hmmm, I see that they went to grit discs vs. diamond coated platters for the Mk-II)

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. Thanks, DoN. Way slow, likely too slow to develop a red heat under normal circumstances. Still, I think I'd be selective in its use, especially for a prolonged grind. I know from personal experience that a resinoid bonded wheel loses grinding capabilities quite rapidly when steel is run on the surface for more than a touch or two. Not sure if it's from loading or not, but a touch of a dressing stick usually restores the qualities of the wheel quickly.

Harold

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