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How to best mount certain tooling in Clausing mill with MT#2 spindle?

I have a nice little Clausing mill with a Morse Taper #2 spindle. The drawbar and collets that I got with the mill are threaded 3/8 16tpi. The Clausing head is in great shape with only about .0002 runout with a collet. My question is in regard to the type of tooling I should be using in this spindle. Here is an example. I have a Tapmatic tapping head with a R8 shank on it now. The tapping head is in good shape and I'm assuming that I could change the R8 shank on it fairly easily so I could use it with the Clausing

8520. I also have a real nice 1/2 inch Albrecht keyless drill chuck that currently has a MT#2 shank with a tang. I don't know if I should be use the MT#2 tang chuck in he Clausing either but it's a real nice drill chuck. When looking through tooling catalogs, ebay, etc. I have found several sources for MT#2 shanks that could be swapped out for the several real nice R8 and MT#2 tang shanked tools that I own now. The thing is though, I would guess that the best shank to be using in the Clausing 8520 would be a MT#2 taper shank threaded for a 3/8 16tpi drawbar like my collets but I haven't yet found a source for these type of shanks (3/8 16tpi MT#2) that could be installed on my drill chucks, tapping head, small shell mills, boring head, etc. The one nice drill chuck that I got with the mill has a 1/2" straight shank that I currently hold in my 1/2 MT#2 collet when I use it with the Clausing. This set up seems fine for the drilling I've done so far. My question is basically this. I've got some nice tooling that will require new shanks for use on the Clausing. If I can't locate and buy shanks for my tooling with MT#2 threaded 3/8 16 on the end to draw into the Clausing spindle with my drawbar should I try and buy more 1/2" straight shanks for my tapping head, boring head, small shell mills, etc, and mount my tooling using a 1/2 inch collet? I believe that the manual states that I shouldn't use MT#2 tooling with a tang in my spindle. As I mentioned, the milling head and spindle on this machine is in great shape and I would hate to spin a tool in the MT#2 spindle. Should I change out the MT#2 tanged shank on my Albrect drill chuck? Another question, do I want to apply a light coating of oil in the spindle and on the collet before I draw them in or do I want to pull the collet in dry? Probably a newby question but I don't have much experience using collets yet as I never has a set with my Delta or Atlas lathes and this is my first mill. One more question. How hard do I torque the drawbar on this baby? I could relate to terms like crank the @#@! out of it, but I would be a little more comfortable of I could get an answer in terms of in-lbs or similar since that's what I'm used to in auto repair specifications. Much thanks for passing along the knowledge. Eddie
Reply to
Eddie
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Reply to
Clark Magnuson

I also have an 8520 and my drill chucks are fitted with 1/2" straight arors and I use those with the 1/2" collet. No problems at all with either or with a couple of flycutters with integral 1/2" shanks. I bought a Procunier

1E with a 1/2" straight shank and it doesn't look as though the shank or arbor could be replaced - your Tapmatic may be the same way. Criterion makes an MT2 arbor, threaded 3/8-16 for their 2" boring head and that works well, though a couple of washers have to be used at the top of the drawbar as the arbor doesn't seem to be threaded deep enough to take all of the drawbar.

Some of the more esoteric tooling require a different solution. A Tree boring head and a 3" Rotary Tech indexable carbide flycutter both have 3/4" straight shank and for those I use a 3/4" end mill holder from Busy Bee in Canada. I also have a Wohlhaupter UPA2 boring head with tanged MT2 arbor. The arbor seems to fit in the spindle OK and the tang doesn't seem to interfere with anything but I haven't actually used it yet. It's in mint condition and I don't want to have it pop out of the spindle under power. Although that's not likely, it cost too much to take a chance. Eventually I 'll get someone to grind off the tang and thread it for a drawbar.

Mike

Reply to
Mike Henry

Hard enough so that the tool won't fall out, obviously.

But seriously, I just tighten mill drawbars as tight as is comfortable (not crushing fingers or dislocating a shoulder) and of course never hit it with a hammer or use any type of extension.

I think you'll notice the tool moving in the collet if it's not tight enough. If you go too hard, you'll have trouble loosening the drawbar. Neither of these situations are correct. I can't imagine there would be any great benefit to a torque specification.

Remember that I have never used your mill. YMMV.

Regards,

Robin

Reply to
Robin S.

SNIP

I have this mill, and for drilling I have two chucks. I have a Jacobs with a 1/2" straigth shank that goes into my MT #2 - 1/2" collet, and an Albrecht keyless 1/4 drill chuck with a 3/8" straight shank that goes into my MT #2 - 3/8" collet.

I stick my milling cutters directly in the appropriate MT collets, and since I mostly make very light cuts and take my time doing it, I never have a problem that they slip. You could get morse taper endmill holders from MSC, that have a drawbar end.

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Those will only take single end mills though.

Abrasha

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Reply to
Abrasha

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