Did you make the spindle from scratch? If so, I'd be interested to hear the details on making the R8 socket. I'm working on making a new spindle to convert my Van Norman mill.
Yes, I used 1.5" dia 1/4 wall drawn tubing for the spindle. For the bearing set, I originally bought timken tapered roller bearings but to save time while I make a vertical spindle with them, just settled on buying mounted flange bearings from surplus center. I bought an xy table (6" by 19" working surface) online for about $100 and the rest I built.
Because an R8 shank is slightly under 1" dia, installing a short sleeve to bore in place will eliminate eccentricity and eliminate deep hole drilling/boring.
To clarify, I made the first cut with a boring bar mounted in an index head on the table. I will not get to bore the socket until monday. To cut the taper I'll just unbolt the table, remount at the proper angle and use the y to feed the boring bar.
I had an interesting time getting the drive pulley on the spindle shaft - I bored the hub to 0.001 shaft clearance before I welded it into the pulley. After welding it shrunk considerably because the body of the pulley prevented free expansion. Ugh. If I had it to do over again...
Left it out for now. See the discussion on rcm a while back about running bridgeport size machines without them.
For my purposes, less than 1 hp transmitted 95% of the time, I will see how it runs without it. If it slips too much I think I may add a larger diameter sleeve around the spindle nose and bore it for the larger sizes of single angle collets. One of these days when I get time I am going to build a solid body s.a. collet chuck for the lathe. Might be nice to have tooling interchangeable between them with no loss of functionality (R8 in a lathe with no thru chuck capability? not for me).
If it ends up needing it I will locktite in a setscrew with the correct diameter dog point.
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