Egg cartons they are about a foot sq and by now probably cost about 10 cents each. I used them to pack machine parts in when I had my machine shop. I have heard of them used by garage bands to deaden sound. Jim
Should be the same principles as in home theater design. DAGS on "home theater acoustic design tips". The link below also illustrates some options for sound isolation:
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Peter gave the best answer: alternating studs so that each side of the wall rests on a different set of studs. then of course, the heavier the material hung on the studs, the better.
Hi To stop sound going through a wall you need mass
to stop sound in the room you need surface treatmment to the wall ceiling & floor
you do say how the garage is attached to the house
but make the the walls heavy, biuls a brick wall or you could used plaster board
Any gaps like a door will let the sound through if there is a door then seal the frame and panel each side with something heavy, not plaster board it will crack if you slam the door
try shhet steel , plywood
weight is want you want
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And, I suspect, if one were to spray them down with waterglass on front and back before installing, that would cut down on the flammability quite a bit too. A bit over the top is this:
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here is a source for the foam pyramids)
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But it would work really well, and, I suspect, if one covers the wall with grill cloth for speakers, it would not get that nasty with dust, etc. Regards Dave Mundt
He's got it right!!!! Many years ago my parents bought a building and converted it to art and music lesson studios. I was asked about designing walls to separate practise rooms. Imagine one student practising trumpet in one room and another doing harp in the adjacent room. I came up with the same thing Peter suggested except that the 2x6 bottom and top plates were separated from floor and ceiling by a layer of acoustic board and secured with as few nails as practical. The insulation was just the usual "pink" but the acoustic blanket would probably be better. It worked well. We never got a complaint.
All good suggestions from Peter. Concrete block works very well. To add to an existing wall, apply sound board (Homosote) and 5/8" drywall, one or two layers. Resilient furring channel can be used. Use acoustic caulk at all the cracks, sound seals at the doors. I used to have a book published by US Gypsum, a drywall maker that spec'd various wall constructions for sound walls among others. A Google search might turn up something. I built a 12 screen movie theater that used double studs, Fiberglas sound batts and three layers of 5/8" rock on each side and one layer in the middle to isolate the theaters. That worked real well. It all depends on budget and available room. Tom
Prior to drywalling - fill the cavity with a dense insulation.
Double wall with drywall. You need and want as much sound deadening mass between your noise source and where it will travel. This will also provide you a 2 hour rated fire rating.
Have you actually tried this? I'd be worried that the sheetrock wasn't strong enough to support the pressure of the sand pushing out from the inside of the wall.
The isolated surfaces is exactly the way to go, but just spraying the wall full of cellulose insulation is much easier and probably cheaper than your blanket.
I worked at a construction site for a x-ray lab. On the walls they used what looked like plain old sheet rock, but it had a layer of lead sheet under the paper on one face. It probably would be wonderful stuff for noise too. The gent installing it said it was spendy! Greg
The best, cheapest, and easiest way to insulate the shop noise from the house , is to remove any and all equipment from the shop. I'll even help you. Just let me know what size box truck I'll need, and what day you want to do this. I'll be gone, the equipment will be gone, noise will be gone, and you'll be left with peace and quiet. ;-) LMAO Getting the hand truck ready, Ron
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