Best wall to deaden sound

Egg cartons they are about a foot sq and by now probably cost about 10 cents each. I used them to pack machine parts in when I had my machine shop. I have heard of them used by garage bands to deaden sound. Jim

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jim sehr
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Anyone have an opinion for the best wall treatment to deaden sound travel from the shop in the garage to the rest of the house ?

I figgure the candadates are:

  1. Doubled drywall.

  1. Plywood.

Thanks for the opinions.

Reply to
Scott Moore

Those are *extremely* flamable. Remember the Great White fire?


Reply to
Gary Coffman

They're also flammable.


Reply to
B a r r y B u r k e J r .

Reply to
Glenn Ashmore

Should be the same principles as in home theater design. DAGS on "home theater acoustic design tips". The link below also illustrates some options for sound isolation:

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Reply to
jim rozen

Got a lot of answers, thank you. Reading and thinking about them.

Reply to
Scott Moore

Peter gave the best answer: alternating studs so that each side of the wall rests on a different set of studs. then of course, the heavier the material hung on the studs, the better.


Scott Moore wrote:

Reply to
Bay Area Dave

Hi To stop sound going through a wall you need mass

to stop sound in the room you need surface treatmment to the wall ceiling & floor

you do say how the garage is attached to the house

but make the the walls heavy, biuls a brick wall or you could used plaster board

Any gaps like a door will let the sound through if there is a door then seal the frame and panel each side with something heavy, not plaster board it will crack if you slam the door

try shhet steel , plywood

weight is want you want

John O'Connell Customer support ------------------------------------- O C Fabrication Web page

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Years ago, when we built an anechoic chamber for testing acoustic stuff in we used alternating stud walls with a lead curtain "woven" through them.

The public health gestapo would probably ban that sort of stuff now, huh?


-- Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"If you can keep smiling when things go wrong, you've thought of someone to place the blame on."

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Jeff Wisnia


And, I suspect, if one were to spray them down with waterglass on front and back before installing, that would cut down on the flammability quite a bit too. A bit over the top is this:

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here is a source for the foam pyramids)
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But it would work really well, and, I suspect, if one covers the wall with grill cloth for speakers, it would not get that nasty with dust, etc. Regards Dave Mundt

(and no...I am NOT serious).

Reply to
Dave Mundt

He's got it right!!!! Many years ago my parents bought a building and converted it to art and music lesson studios. I was asked about designing walls to separate practise rooms. Imagine one student practising trumpet in one room and another doing harp in the adjacent room. I came up with the same thing Peter suggested except that the 2x6 bottom and top plates were separated from floor and ceiling by a layer of acoustic board and secured with as few nails as practical. The insulation was just the usual "pink" but the acoustic blanket would probably be better. It worked well. We never got a complaint.


Reply to
Ted Edwards

All good suggestions from Peter. Concrete block works very well. To add to an existing wall, apply sound board (Homosote) and 5/8" drywall, one or two layers. Resilient furring channel can be used. Use acoustic caulk at all the cracks, sound seals at the doors. I used to have a book published by US Gypsum, a drywall maker that spec'd various wall constructions for sound walls among others. A Google search might turn up something. I built a 12 screen movie theater that used double studs, Fiberglas sound batts and three layers of 5/8" rock on each side and one layer in the middle to isolate the theaters. That worked real well. It all depends on budget and available room. Tom

Reply to
Tom Wait

Prior to drywalling - fill the cavity with a dense insulation.

Double wall with drywall. You need and want as much sound deadening mass between your noise source and where it will travel. This will also provide you a 2 hour rated fire rating.


Reply to
Jim Mc Namara

Have you actually tried this? I'd be worried that the sheetrock wasn't strong enough to support the pressure of the sand pushing out from the inside of the wall.

Reply to
Roy Smith

The isolated surfaces is exactly the way to go, but just spraying the wall full of cellulose insulation is much easier and probably cheaper than your blanket.


Reply to
Kevin Craig

\ Me too. I wouldn't do it to my house.

-- Jim in NC

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I worked at a construction site for a x-ray lab. On the walls they used what looked like plain old sheet rock, but it had a layer of lead sheet under the paper on one face. It probably would be wonderful stuff for noise too. The gent installing it said it was spendy! Greg

Reply to
Greg O

The best, cheapest, and easiest way to insulate the shop noise from the house , is to remove any and all equipment from the shop. I'll even help you. Just let me know what size box truck I'll need, and what day you want to do this. I'll be gone, the equipment will be gone, noise will be gone, and you'll be left with peace and quiet. ;-) LMAO Getting the hand truck ready, Ron

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