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Boring head dumb question

Hello all,

I have been looking at $80-100 import boring head/bar sets. For that money, I would not expect to start rebuilding V12 engines, but it would hopefully teach me a little and tolerate abuse as an adjustable hole saw. Is that a reasonable expection?

Boring heads appear to be sold by diameter, with no mention of capacity. Some searching and reading leads me to suspect that one can mount the bar parallel or perpendicular to the axis of rotation, with the latter allowing larger holes to be bored. Is that accurate?

Any cautions or advice?

Bill

Reply to
Bill Schwab
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We had some Chinese boring heads at school. You could easily hit a hole to .001", closer if you take your time.

I would recommend replacing all the fasteners (basically the setscrews for clamping the tool, and the slide) before use. Correctly adjusting the tension on the clamping screws for the slide is important for good results and bad hardware makes your life *difficult*.

YMMV.

Regards,

Robin

Reply to
Robin S.

Reply to
donfreesland

Replacing setscrews etc on most all of the import stuff makes a world of difference, and is highly recomended. I cant see why they make a half assed decent item only to put such cheap and soft setscrews etc in it........

Reply to
Roy

Hey Bill,

What Robin says about the lock screws, for sure if it's an "off-shore"!!

There are usually two or three spec measurements given in the adverts. One is the accuracy of course, one is the "bore size" capability or the effective "adjustment" range, and then the one to note is the measurement as to the size shank of the boring bar to be held, usually from 3/8 to 1" size. That last one is a little harder to suggest what's right for you, and best you have a look in your bin of boring bars and see what diameters are good for you. You can sleeve a small one into a big hole if you need to, so consider that too. Most boring heads have both a horizontal hole, and a vertical hole, and some have two or three verticals, so covering a broader range of work-hole diameters. Some boring heads are called "boring-facing heads", and have a capability to advance the boring size outwards at each revolution, allowing "facing" or trepanning. Drop into a dealer, and look at the selections.

Take care.

Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario.

Reply to
Brian Lawson

You can make a pretty nice one for less than $100. I made this one and it has met all my needs.

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Randy

Reply to
R. O'Brian

Yes, generally you can go almost as small as the boring bar or as large as the rigidity of the perpendicular bar will allow without excess chatter.

Never use the lever feed. Go slow, take several small cuts, and use the geared downfeed or raise the table. If after your final cut you don't want a score line in the bore be sure to reduce the diameter before pulling the boring head out of the hole.

Reply to
tomcas

I'm not sure I agree with this, or at least it should be expanded. Those boring heads are capable of taking some pretty heavy cuts. Roughing is just that. Rip it down as fast as possible. Only the last

Reply to
Robin S.

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