Brass questions

Hi there,
Newbie here, so I apologize for asking potentially idiotic questions.
My project for the summer is to build a microphone. For the body I'm
using 2" OD brass pipe. To mount the PCB, i'm using .25" swuare brass
rods. That's all fine and dandy for the most part.
For the ends of the rod (one end to mount the microphone capsule, and
the other end for the output, I've got some .04" brass sheet. What i
really need is about twice the thickness. What I'd like to know is
this: Is there an adhesive or bonding compound I could use to join the
discs so that I could drill them as single .08" thick discs rather than
two different sheets? I'm afraid if I drill them individually, the
holes won't line up.
Thanks ,
Daniel
Reply to
Daniel Stover
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Temporary if just needed while drilling: cyanoacrylate (Super Glue), cleave back apart with razor blade; hot-melt glue, heat to separate.
Permanent: epoxy, or solder or braze them.
Reply to
Richard J Kinch
Be careful heating the cyanoacrylates. They give off a wicked gas when overly warmed. Gentle heat I've been told keeps the toxic gases at bay. Don't over heat is the message I got.
I use the darn stuff often for small and delicate fixturing tasks. Hope this helps. Ian.
Reply to
Ian T.
Double-stick scotch tape
Reply to
Randal O'Brian
They do that even when not warmed.
"Cyano" as in "cyanide".
Reply to
Richard J Kinch
--Can't be too bad; I grabbed it instead of a bottle of flux once by mistake; couldn't figure out why the solder wouldn't bond the two pieces for the longest time, until I realized it didn't smell like flux...
Reply to
steamer
Greetings and Salutations...
this is true. There is a fairly comprehensive document (thanks to our tax dollars) here:
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talks about the hazards of it, and, it mentions that a biproduct of thermal breakdown is hydrogen cyanide. Also, don't forget that a bunch of the vapor IS glue...and it will plate out in a heartbeat on any sensitive tissues it can find. There is no way that coating one's airways with CA glue is good. And with that cheerful thought...let's go take a sledge hammer to a computer! (OMWC). Regards Dave Mundt
Reply to
Dave Mundt
You should be able to sweat the disks together with solder, then heat to separate after finishing. I've used this a number of times for thin work that needed support while machining. There's no really easy way to remove the solder, though, afterwards other than by filing or sanding. In the items I was making, I had to file to finish them anyway, so a little solder on the surface didn't matter.
Another way to do it is to drill your holes on oversized blanks, make up a threaded arbor, put your blanks on, tighten up and turn the outsides to your desired size. Arbor is a close fit to your hole size. In my earlier pre-lathe days, I've done this trick with an electric drill, a file and a 1/4" bolt, washers and nut.
Stan
Reply to
Stan Schaefer

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