Bridgeport Series 1 milling machine "TJ" designation

Does anybody know what the "TJ" means in connection with a series 1
Bridgeport mill? It's suddenly become of interest to me because I
bought one today! Woo hoo! V
Reply to
Vernon
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After noodling around the net I think that "TJ" was a typo and should have been "1J" or "2J". The mill is a Series 1 but has a DRO and power feeds. At this point I'm trying to determine whether it takes R8 tooling or something else. I get the impression that R8 was standard in the old machines and 30QC and some other "30" designation came later, in order to facilitate tool changes during CNC operation sequences.
Is this about right? And, since I don't have any tooling anyway, does it make a mousie's patootie? Or should I be doing "hail marys" praying for one or the other? V
Reply to
Vernon
Chances are overwhelming that it takes R8 tooling. Congrats. Let me know if you are looking for a free PDF manual
Reply to
Ignoramus28420
----------- R8 tooling is generally less expensive and more widely available. As handy as the collets are, you will most likely be happier with a weldon [set-screw] style end mill adapter as these are almost a quick change tool holder. If you use collets [or adapters] you won't need the full set, just the 3/8, 1/2 and 5/8 sizes for most tools. On occasion a 3/4 can be handy if your tooling has a shank this big. If you use the collets get the combination wrench and hammer.
sites are for example only and most mill supplys should stock (possibly at higher prices).
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In many cases on a "pre-owned" machine the draw bar threads will be "knackered", and may damage your new collets and end mill holders. These are inexpensive. [several sizes for bridgeport, measure the old one]
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I suggest you get Edwards book "Turret Mill Operation" as one of your first items. Filled with good info and hints. It will more than pay for itself.
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In order to minimize your tooling costs take a look at the insert end mills that use TPU/TPG inserts.
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Watch the sales flyers for even better deals.
Unka' George [George McDuffee] ------------------------------------------- He that will not apply new remedies, must expect new evils: for Time is the greatest innovator: and if Time, of course, alter things to the worse, and wisdom and counsel shall not alter them to the better, what shall be the end?
Francis Bacon (1561-1626), English philosopher, essayist, statesman. Essays, "Of Innovations" (1597-1625).
Reply to
F. George McDuffee
I've not heard "TJ" applied this way. Nor any standard spindles other than R8 on J's or 2J's. Perhaps this is a clone, not a actual Bridgeport?
Reply to
Richard J Kinch
Iggy. I would truly love a free PDF manual. In fact, at that price, I'l splurge and take two! Thanks! However, I will need to send you my email address. It is vtuck followed by an integer that is greater than one and less than three . Then a secret symbol that horses couldn't drag out of me is an ampersand. Then yahoo dot com. I had to give up my own damned web page because it got so overrun with spam as a result of posting to these groups. Die spammers! Sweetly, Vernon
Reply to
Vernon
No need for email address. I have a free promotion and you can have all Bridgeport manuals here:
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Download one, get all free.
Reply to
Ignoramus18654
Thanks to each and every one of you, for your continued generosity with your knowledge, which is stunning, and your helpful spirit, which is awe inspiring. I'm making plans to go get the mill early next week. V
Reply to
Vernon
It depends -- (assuming that the 'T' was a typo for '1' or '2'). I have a CNC version of the series 1 with a 2J head which has the NMTB-30 quick change spindle. I don't think that you will find a 1J with that spindle, however.
Enjoy, DoN.
Reply to
DoN. Nichols
OK, a 1J has a 4-step pulley, plus back gear selection, for 8 speeds. The motor is typically 1 Hp. The 2J has a vari-speed belt drive, and typically 2 Hp, but early ones were 1.5 Hp. The mill is a Series 1 but has a DRO and
No, it is just choice of the purchaser. The R-8 is the most available and cheapest, you will find fully tooling up a 30 taper machine may well cost more than the machine itself, even surplus. The NMTB 30 taper is a constant taper, but much steeper than the Morse tapers. The R-8 is mostly straight, with a short taper right at the end. Look on the net and you should be able to find pictures of both to compare.
Jon
Reply to
Jon Elson

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