building trailer axles

My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some type of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt spring hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe maybe 2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play too much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller (princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks
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wrote:

I'd go with 2" Sched 80 in a pinch, but IIRC there is a DOM tubing that fits them exactly. Try metal supermarket. I think it is 2 1/4 inch DOM (1/4 wall). A lot of these axles have been used un "U" chanel axles too. And in square tube. In Sched 80 I'd just put a few "weld blisters" around the shaft to make them fit snug, and drill a few 1/2" holes through the tube and plug weld them. In DOM I'd fasten them the same way - at least 4 good plug welds. Keeps the HAZ away from the end where the axle tube and stub join.
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On Apr 3, 6:41 pm, clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:

Only problem with the 2 1/4"DOM is that the spring u-bolts are made to fit 2 3/8" dia. pipe/tube.
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wrote:

So buy 2.25" U bolts, or reform the 2.1875s to fit
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clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:

Hmmm... Wouldn't 2" id 1/4" wall pipe be 2.5" in diameter?
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wrote:

What are you commenting on? I am the original poster and I was looking for 1 3/4"id heavy walled pipe/tubing, the closest I could find was 2"sch 80 pipe which is 1.90"id and 2.375"od.
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The OP was looking at the usual pipe size tables. Typical one looks like: http://www.intercononline.com/welding/schedule.htm Schedule 40 pipe is designed to have an ID very slightly larger than the nominal pipe size. So 2" schedule 40 is 2.067". Schedule 80 was a "extra heavy wall" pipe, uses the same fittings (OD related), sothe ID is well under 2"
Ronald Thompson wrote:

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What is DOM?
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On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 02:40:08 GMT, Dan@ (Dan ) wrote:

Drawn Over Mandrel.
All pipe and steel tubing is made from strip stock that is folded into a tube and the seam is butt welded. The mandrel drawing process smooths out the welding seam left on the inside of the pipe for extra strength, and makes sure there are no burrs on the inside of the tubing.
For electrical conduit burrs on the inside are very bad, they cut the wire insulation and cause shorts. For telescoping tubing internal seams are bad, because they block you from sliding the next smaller tubing inside that one.
--<< Bruce >>--
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On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 02:40:08 GMT, Dan@ (Dan ) wrote:

Drawn ove mandrel. It is electrically welded tubing that "thinks" it is seamless. Perfectly round bore with no weld bead - also known as structural tubing - in contrast to Sched 80 PIPE which has a discernable welded seam and is only "nominally" sized.
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Does this mean there is no such thing as seamless pipe?
On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 17:22:46 -0400, clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:

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On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 23:51:58 GMT, Dan@ (Dan ) wrote:

No, there IS such a thing as seamless pipe, but it ain't cheap - and structural tubing is more likely to be DOM
Seamless (SMLS) Steel Pipe is made from a solid round steel β€˜billet’ which is heated and pushed or pulled over a form until the steel is shaped into a hollow tube. The seamless pipe is then finished to dimensional and wall thickness specifications in sizes from 1/8 inch to 26 inch OD.
a seamless PIPE is manufactured, for example, from a billet of steel about 10 inches in diameter and 6 to 8 feet long. After heating to over 1000 degrees C., a hole is pierced through the center to form a very thick-walled tube. Hot rolling and cold drawing then progressively reduces the wall thickness and diameter of this tube until it is sized for the particular end purpose. Seamless is a costly method of manufacture; restricted both in size of outside diameter and in length.
Generally used as boiler tubing.

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On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 21:28:38 -0400, clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:

And no doubt other critical stuff like piping high-pressure hydraulic systems, high pressure refrigerant to water condensers (dump the heat to a cooling tower) or evaporators (process water chillers) or life safety uses like cylinder gases.
If you don't need it, don't specify it - or you have to pay.
--<< Bruce >>--
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mark wrote:

They are for welding onto square tube to make a rocking axle dual wheel mount, or for a solid set-up, welded to the trailer frame members. They get used on a lot of farm equipment, too.
Just buy the built axle if you are looking at a standard single wheel axle design. You can't build a decent safe axle for what they want for one, unless you have an exceptional scrap pile and the know-how to do it safely (which, if you are asking....)
Can you jig up the stub axles to keep them in line? Reliably? And weld them in place accurately?
Just askin'. Better to realistically assess the chances now, than to spend a bunch of money, then have to do it all again for the next try.
Cheers Trevor Jones
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Axles are critical and very inexpensive. Buy a Dexter or some such, made to your spec, and be happy forever.
i

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On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 21:41:23 -0500, Ignoramus18496 wrote:

Go get the axle made by Dexter or another axle mfg. company, and it will come the way you need it, including pre-assembled 7" or 8" electric brakes and even a set of wheels and tires. The premade axles include installation kits - all the spring saddles, springs, u-bolts, shackles, frame saddles and brackets needed to install it safely.
There's way too much fabrication involved, and you have to get ALL the little details right - or you will deal with failures that could have multi-fatal consequences.
And fabricating a suspension from scratch is reinventing the wheel and will cost you dearly in parts and time. The axle company buys all these pieces in bulk, and you will save in the long run.
The axle tubing has to be the right steel for strength, the welds holding the spindles on are critical and tricky, and the axle needs a 2 or 3 degree bend in the middle /at an angle/, to provide a bit of toe-in and camber so it tracks right. They know how much to tweak it, you would have to experiment till the trailer tracks true.
Save your effort for making the trailer frame and body.
--<< Bruce >>--
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On Apr 4, 3:21 am, Bruce L. Bergman

So nobody know the answer then. I like how you all give advise but have no idea what I am doing with the axles. I am building a boat trailer that will never leave my yard as I live on the water and have my own launch, I don't want brakes, I don't want suspension. Toe in/out etc doesn't matter, it will never be on pavement. These spindle are on sale right now and I can build the axles to the exact width I want.
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mark wrote:

15 thou matters very little. Shims will make no difference once the unit is welded together.
You plan on cutting the trailer up when you are done with it?
Otherwise, it may well end up on the roads.
Better to have the standardized (and proven) axle.
Fill yer boots.
Cheers Trevor Jones
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news:8065e1d0-d183-4a4a-9a92-

Ah, ahem, Mark. You failed to mention that in your OP.
It was an interesting thread anyway. Fun to watch all the answers you got. Unfortunately nobody asked what you were going to do with the axle. Seems like everybody assumed you were going to put it on the road.
B
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Mark, for your situation then, I would use a piece of metal pallet strapping as a shim, drive the stubs into the pipe, and weld around. Adjust fit as required in a local area around the shim with a die grinder.
RJ
wrote:

So nobody know the answer then. I like how you all give advise but have no idea what I am doing with the axles. I am building a boat trailer that will never leave my yard as I live on the water and have my own launch, I don't want brakes, I don't want suspension. Toe in/out etc doesn't matter, it will never be on pavement. These spindle are on sale right now and I can build the axles to the exact width I want.
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