ok after alot of reserch and a lot of time i have found out the
worcester lathe co of worcester mass was started and ran by the
previous owner/president of Whitcomb-Blaisdell Machine tool Co.
as near as i can tell my lathe is an engine lathe perhaps as 2 adds i
have for worcester lathe co only lists those lathes ranging from 11
inch models to 16inch models
1918 being 11, 13 and 16inch lathes and
1920 being 12 and 14 inch lathes
wich means this lathe is a bit older then i orginally thought as i
habve another article talking about a lawsuit in 1925 from the owner
of worchester mass to the owner of Reed-Prebtice Co and Merchant banks
i am not sure if this means the plant was closed shortly after that or
anyway anyone here know anything about whitcomb-Blaisdell Machine Tool
company?? as they where kind of associated with worcester lathe co i
figure maybe they both made a simular model lathe that i could use the
owners manual from
I'm curious about a couple details on your lathe having at one time owned a
huge, ancient Whitcomb-Blaisdell machine bearing a brass dealer name plate of
Mine was iirc gearheaded and had the most unusual mushroom-like dial as part of
the quick change gearbox assembly.
Ended up trading it and an equally old B&S auto screw machine for a '77 Chevy
Malibu which made me a hero to my family.
If you have the serial number I may be able to come up with approx. year of mfg
since I have an old serial # book handy.
Health & Peace,
i am not sure where to even look for a serial number on this lathe
there is only one brass tag/nameplate on it and all that listed was
gear combonations to use for various screw TPI i have the lathe only
about 60% striped of the old paint i have a few pics taken by the
previous owner though if i could have a decent idea on where to find
the serial number i will look for it
well the only number i found on the lathe was by the headstock on the
bed and it said lathe no. U89
knowing they only made about 50 lathes a month and if each month was
represented by a difrent letter in the alphabet id say made sometime in
1919 asuming they opened for bussiness in 1918
I don't think you will find an "owner's manual." Back then, advertising copy
is about the extent of company literature. Around 1920 there were many changes
made in engine lathes, because of the introduction of individual electric
motors for each machine, and because of quick-change gearing. Oscar Perrigo's
"Lathe Design," available from Lindsay Publications, has a few comments about
some of the features of Blaisdell lathes.
Witcomb-Blaisdell was a 1905 merger of what was left of two very old firms.
Witcomb goes back to the 1840s--copy presses were one of their early products,
and Blaisdell was a firm started by Parritt Blaisdell in 1865. He had
previously worked for Wood, Light & Co. He died in 1874, the firm being
carried on by others, including Charles Hildreth.
It's probably more to your advantage, if you're just starting out, to use
something like "How to Run a Lathe," from Southbend. And learn your lathe by
i actually do have that book how to run a lathe i was curious about 2
things one was the year made as i am having a hard time finding 3 new
gears for the power feed...wich just have to be 23 teeth gears rather
rare i have discovered...
and just some general specs for the machine like bearing adjustments
and other things i can not find enough info on
[ ... ]
Hmm ... it looks a bit newer than we've been thinking. In
1) It looks like a data plate for a quick-change gearbox on the
2) The box with the sliding control looks like something to select
through a certain range of gears.
3) It appears to have been built with both an electric motor, and
some degree of protective covers.
4) It also appears to have a clutch for power longitudinal feed
(controlled by the star hand knob and perhaps switched on by the
fat plate on a rod above it, or perhaps even selectable to be
power cross-feed as well.
My guess, is that the sliding control will allow you to select a
certain number of threading feeds with detents along the way. (Perhaps
five or six), and you have to change the gears under the cover to select
groupings of thread pitches. That gear cover looks rather custom fitted
to a specific gear train, not the more overall envelope shape which
allows one to build lots of threading gear selections on the end.
I'll be interested to hear how close my guesses are.
well my best guess was the 1950's for date of origin but the most
recent documantation the worcester historical musem had in reference
to the company was 1925
1 the plate tells you wich gear to use to set the speed of the power
feed in corolation to pic 2 with the 3 gear selection for further
2 3 gears best guess on ratios from right to left is 2:1 1:1 1:2
3i think the belt cover was add later based on the the fact it is
sheetmetal when everything else on the lathe is cast
4. if it has any kind of clutch i would be surprised as the gear box
is half disasambled now as new bushings are being made by the local
college for me the star nob on the sadle i am not sure on right above
it is a small round nob i can pull out that i can pin to have it do
front to back travle i think thats longitiude of course if i only move
it half way i can have it fo both movements at once probably not
4 gears under the gear cover are set and unchangable however i need 3
of them made as the previous owner either crashed the saddle into the
headstock and snapped the teeth off or he had it stuck between forward
and reverse rotations and snaped the teeth that way the 5th gear in
their i can change from a box of gears i have all numbered to
corospond with the plate on the cover
it is an 8 speed lathe with the lowest gear probably around 40 rpms
and the top gear i couldn't guess closet lever on top selects between
hi and lo the back lever selects 4 other gear ratios
a few things i have found on the lathe sence i have been stripping
obviously covered over years ago with way too much paint 2 holes on
the saddle one by the star knob and another above it both feeding into
copper tubes i only can assume it was a way of getting lubrication to
the gears inside
2 holes in the middle of the bed in the saddle i need to remove it so
i can get a better look at it i know they are threaded but not what
they are for
id just really like to know what year this is made and if anyone knows
where i could locate 3 23 tooth gears i do have basic sizes on them
[ ... ]
There may be something in the information which is lost, as I
would guess 1940s or so based on the appearance.
Are those what is selected by the sliding control on the front
of what looks like a gearbox based on it being between the headstock
threading gears and the leadscrew.
That may be -- but why would it be so fitted when a more open
design could allow more flexible gear choices -- including possibly ones
for transposing inch to metric threading?
That star knob should be the clutch. You tighten it to get the
amount of feed you want. It only offers a clutch effect when using the
power feeds, not the half-nuts for thread cutting (where any slippage
would spoil the job).
Cross-feed. The feed along the bed is "longitudinal".
BTW -- I would not store the 3-jaw chuck and the face plate on
the bed the way they are in the photos. And I *especially* would not
try moving the lathe with them stored there.
Probably not a problem, and useful if you want to turn a conical
point on a workpiece (and are willing to accept whatever angle that
gives.) On mine (Clausing 12x24"), there is no clutch, just a lever
which slides in a slot like this:
where the up direction gives cross-feed, and the down direction gives
longitudinal feed, while the middle gives no motion, and it must be in
that position for the half-nuts lever to close for threading.
Are all the teeth stripped off, or just a few? It is possible
to build up missing teeth with brazing compound, and then to machine (or
even file, with great care) new teeth. Also -- if several adjacent
teeth are missing, it is possible to cut a slot below that and braze in
new metal which then gets turned to the right height and into which new
teeth are cut.
That low end is nice for coarse threading. It requires less of
you in terms of reaction time.
At a guess, if they are on the side, it may be for a follower
rest. Some afix to the side. (Usually the side towards the headstock.
You need more information than just "23 tooth". You need the
diametrical pitch (most easily determined with a gauge -- otherwise a
lot of counting and calculating is needed), and the PA (Pressure Angle
-- usually 14-1/2 degrees or 20 degrees, IIRC) before you can make or
buy a gear to fit. Aside from that, the hole in the hub is important,
and whatever form of keying in the hub as well.
If you have access to a milling machine, and an index head, it
is possible to get (or make) gear tooth profile cutters (even possible
to do it with a fly cutter, if you can't buy one).
For 23 teeth, with a B&S index/dividing head, or any other with
a 40:1 gear ratio between the hand crank and the spindle, you need for
each next tooth a full turn plus 17 holes on a 23-hole circle. (At
least it isn't one of those numbers which can't be made except via
differential geared index heads.)
cause the belt feed cover is just to keep you from getting hurt should
the belt snap..the gear cover is cast the really odd shaped peice
these pics were taken by the previous owner and that was all the stuff
he was selling with the lathe as one peice...they are stored on a
wodden bench between the legs underneath
no but a good majority of them i was advised by a few people just to
get new ones as any kind of brazing or even welding and re cutting
would not offer a long term solution
1st gear 23 teeth
1 15/16 od(at the outside of teeth)
1 5/8 id (valley of teeth)
2nd gear 23 teeth
1 3/4 od
1 7/16 id
3rd gear 32 teeth
2 3/8 od
2 1/8 id
all 14 1/2 degree pitch
i have searched everywhere and have been unable to locate any gears
matching those dimensions and there are no keyways needed for them
wish only have access to another lathe i might see if the college
wants to make new gears for me as well as my new bushings
Vlad1852 wrote in message ...
I assume these are the gears for your tumbler.
To figure Diametric pitch for a gear, you take the (tooth count + 2)/OD in
Either you tooth count or measurements are off. Because your pitches figure
all over the place, from 12.9 to 14.3.
Paul K. Dickman