Chimney pipe

You're using the proper double walled modular chimney pipe for wood stoves I hope? The single wall stuff is for gas fireplace inserts and the like and is not safe for use with a wood stove. If you're using the correct items, you do not need any additional sealant. Also remember that the metal will be expanding and contracting and JB Weld would likely be a disaster.

You shouldn't need to seal them if it is installed right. The right way is the joint is lapped so the creosote doesn't run out and down your pipe. Round here tis a sure sign of a greenhorn. Also put three sheetmetal screws in each joint.

Steve

slip joints have a

joints?

something that

The right way is

down your pipe.

sheetmetal screws

Creosote should never run out of your pipes! If it is you are firing _way_ too low! The inside of your stove should be white if you are firing up like you should be! A hot house has a clean chimney......;>) phil kangas

There are gaskets specifically made for this purpose - the place you bought the stove would have them.... Get copy of the relevant installation standards as well, might be illuminating for you....

Andrew VK3BFA.

ªx??SÁnÛ0½û+xJ/·b½¬-?ë%¶?bG?m5²èIT\ÿýH9é?Û6,?|||~ðð?¶p~±?ó·?ïa?ø??¯¾!#|*ç,_?ôü®¼(ËòCô?

wrote

Too ease everyone's fears, the single wall pipe goes into the ceiling box, then a triple wall takes it through the short attic space. All a vertical run. I just had a couple of small places I was concerned about.

Steve

Draft, then the soot from the smoke, will seal single wall chimney pipe.

Stove pipe cement maybe?

Cheers Trevor Jones

I have one slip joint where the black iron pipe goes (a long way) into the stainless steel adapter for the double-wall chimney. I sealed it by wrapping all my spare flat door gasketing around the joint.

3 screws is the standard but I like to use 4 or 6 stainless steel flanged hex head screws which are easier to drive straight than Phillips, so the holes aren't damaged when I reassemble the flue after cleaning and inspection.

Jim Wilkins

Just use little short self tapping screws, Steve. One per joint is really adequate, unless you've got some horizontal distance that's unsupported. I don't know of anything that'll "seal" the joints reliably, short of welding them, because of the constant expansion and contraction.

John

these

there

right.

three

are

chimney......;>)

That may be so but it doesn't change the way the pipes should be installed.

Then, why is it that every wood stove I ever saw had a male connection on the stove. As far as securing the sections together, put a loop of stove pipe wire (19 Ga. black, soft iron wire, now used to tie rebar, etc.) around the vertical pipe, then once around every six feet (or thereabouts) on the horizontal run and anchor it either to the next vertical or to a hook in the chimney; also support the horizontal run every six feet with a loop of said wire to a hook in the ceiling. Take your stovepipes out and clean them every month. At least this is the way my father, grandfather and their ancestors did it and obviously they weren't burned to death in a house fire! Gerry :-)} London, Canada

The

and

you

you

should be installed.

male connection

put a loop of

tie rebar,

feet (or

the next

horizontal run

ceiling. Take

ancestors

house fire!

I'm with you on this one Gerry! phil

14:28:28 -0600, "Up North"

wood stove. The slip joints have a