Chimney pipe

I just put in some chimney pipe for a wood stove. The slip joints have a
little space in them. What is good for sealing up these joints?
My first thought was JB Weld. Is that good, or is there something that
would stick to the metal at those temperatures?
Steve
Reply to
SteveB
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You're using the proper double walled modular chimney pipe for wood stoves I hope? The single wall stuff is for gas fireplace inserts and the like and is not safe for use with a wood stove. If you're using the correct items, you do not need any additional sealant. Also remember that the metal will be expanding and contracting and JB Weld would likely be a disaster.
Reply to
Pete C.
You shouldn't need to seal them if it is installed right. The right way is the joint is lapped so the creosote doesn't run out and down your pipe. Round here tis a sure sign of a greenhorn. Also put three sheetmetal screws in each joint.
Steve
Reply to
Up North
"Up North" wrote in message ...
slip joints have a
joints?
something that
The right way is
down your pipe.
sheetmetal screws
Creosote should never run out of your pipes! If it is you are firing _way_ too low! The inside of your stove should be white if you are firing up like you should be! A hot house has a clean chimney......;>) phil kangas
Reply to
Phil Kangas
There are gaskets specifically made for this purpose - the place you bought the stove would have them.... Get copy of the relevant installation standards as well, might be illuminating for you....
Andrew VK3BFA.
Reply to
vk3bfa
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Reply to
dcaster
wrote
Too ease everyone's fears, the single wall pipe goes into the ceiling box, then a triple wall takes it through the short attic space. All a vertical run. I just had a couple of small places I was concerned about.
Steve
Reply to
SteveB
Draft, then the soot from the smoke, will seal single wall chimney pipe.
Stove pipe cement maybe?
Cheers Trevor Jones
Reply to
Trevor Jones
I have one slip joint where the black iron pipe goes (a long way) into the stainless steel adapter for the double-wall chimney. I sealed it by wrapping all my spare flat door gasketing around the joint.
3 screws is the standard but I like to use 4 or 6 stainless steel flanged hex head screws which are easier to drive straight than Phillips, so the holes aren't damaged when I reassemble the flue after cleaning and inspection.
Jim Wilkins
Reply to
Jim Wilkins
Just use little short self tapping screws, Steve. One per joint is really adequate, unless you've got some horizontal distance that's unsupported. I don't know of anything that'll "seal" the joints reliably, short of welding them, because of the constant expansion and contraction.
John
Reply to
JohnM
these
there
right.
three
are
chimney......;>)
Reply to
Phil Kangas
That may be so but it doesn't change the way the pipes should be installed.
Reply to
Up North
Then, why is it that every wood stove I ever saw had a male connection on the stove. As far as securing the sections together, put a loop of stove pipe wire (19 Ga. black, soft iron wire, now used to tie rebar, etc.) around the vertical pipe, then once around every six feet (or thereabouts) on the horizontal run and anchor it either to the next vertical or to a hook in the chimney; also support the horizontal run every six feet with a loop of said wire to a hook in the ceiling. Take your stovepipes out and clean them every month. At least this is the way my father, grandfather and their ancestors did it and obviously they weren't burned to death in a house fire! Gerry :-)} London, Canada
Reply to
Gerald Miller
The
and
you
you
should be installed.
male connection
put a loop of
tie rebar,
feet (or
the next
horizontal run
ceiling. Take
ancestors
house fire!
I'm with you on this one Gerry! phil
Reply to
Phil Kangas
14:28:28 -0600, "Up North"
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Pipe Man
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Pipe Man
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Pipe Man
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Pipe Man
wood stove. The slip joints have a
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Pipe Man

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