newbie question about ss moldings

I'm doing a kitchen backsplash and running a stainless steel snap-on
molding horizontally across the back splash. Its primarily decorative
but it doubles as a disguise for screws holding the backsplash on to the
I'm completely new to metal working (unless you count soldering copper
plumbing pipe, or soldering electronic components on a circuit board).
Once the molding is cut, the end looks unfinished. What is normally done
to make that look good? Are there end-caps? In wood working, I'd miter
the end at 45 degrees and build a small "return", using finish nails. I
guess I could miter the stainless steel molding, and then solder a
return on ? If so, what type of soldering equipment and solder should I
use? And wouldn't all this discolor/scratch the stainless steel, and how
would I avoid that? Wouldn't the solder be a different color ? And how
to avoid the solder looking misshapen ?
In the corners, I was thinking of mitering, but again, how do you attach
two pieces together? Are there fittings (like copper plumbing), or is
soldering the way to go?
Finally, this sounds like a lot of new techniques to learn, and I'd
rather hire someone to do this, but don't know how to find the right
person for a job like this. I don't even know where to look in the
yellow pages!
Central Ohio
Reply to
Monte Main
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Depending on the alloy you should be able to do this with a propane torch and 56% silver solder. You'll need a good flux. Silver is much "runnier" than solder for copper and it requires a bit higher temperature. If you are careful all you need to do afterwards will be soak the flux off and buff a bit. Otherwise you'll need to do some filing and sanding to make it look right.
Reply to
Since it's a cosmetic joint that needn't be very strong, I would use Harris Staybrite silver-bearing solder. It wets stainless very well, can easily be done with a propane torch. It melts at about 425F, about the same as PbSn plumbing solder. Color match with SS is excellent. Use tinner's fluid or Harris StayKleen flux. A good welding store or supplier to air-conditioning/refrigeration trades will have these materials. Some welding stores will have a little 4-oz blisterpack of it for about 8 bux. That'd be plenty for your job.
If you'll have a gap to bridge, then go with Staybrite 8. It's a little harder to find, but it's out there. Might have to buy a pound of it, though, about 30 bux.
Higher temperatures, as for silver-brazing or welding, will discolor the stainless so it'd have to be buffed afterwards.
As for a tradesman to do it for you, try a welding shop, a modelmaker, or possibly a refrigeration technician.
Reply to
Don Foreman

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