Clamping V blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks

I've had to diddle around trying to clamp a V block down onto a 2-3-4 block while keeping said collection square to the spindle

Actual use was drilling for a scope mount on a Stevens Favorite single shot. I left the action on the barrel and used a Kant-Twist clamp (w/poly jaws) to hold the action against an angle plate (keeps the barrel lined up at right angles to the action). But I had to use blocks to raise the v blocks high enough for the tang to clear the table (the tang was actually down in a T slot).

So how can you clamp down v blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks and still remain square to the spindle?

Reply to
Louis Ohland
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Loctite.

Reply to
_

Reply to
Louis Ohland

Oh, did you want to be able to take them apart after? (chuckle).

(I corrected your posting error for you.)

Reply to
_

Reply to
Louis Ohland

Could you have taken the slab sided action (assuming) and clamped that into your mill vise and then indicated the barrel to horizontal? Then place a support under where you are drilling?

I have a Stevens miserable loader that I've relined and just need to cut off the barrel and crown. I didn't get grandma's gun so I bought one that needed a bit of work so I'd have one for myself.

Wes

Reply to
Wes

I use these things

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a drill press vise to hold Vee blocks in messy setups. The vee block can be raised on an adjustable parallel and the vise can be clamped to the table.

Or make a vee block out of aluminum or such and drill and tap it as necessary for custom setups. I cast mine from scrap hard solder in a wooden mold.

Jim Wilkins

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

2-3-4 block would work if the tapped holes were in an advantageous location.

Then you could indicate the v blocks before and after tightening. I'm assuming that the angle plate keeps the action vertical, and therefore the barrel and the v blocks are square to the Z axis, and could be indicated square to the x axis when clamping to the table. Is the barrel untapered where it rests in the v-blocks? If so, seems like it should work.

Pete Keillor

Reply to
Pete Keillor

Interesting, I suppose using brass stock to protect the action from scratches would work. That would keep the action reasonably square to the spindle.

Consider this- indicate the vise so it's 90 degrees to the X axis, put the V blocks up so the barrel is horizontal, tighten the vise so the action is tight.

This would be OK for drill> Louis Ohland wrote:

Reply to
Louis Ohland

This barrel was untapered thankfully, or I would have had to of used centers or angles.

Not sure if the 2-3-4 block holes are tapped, but that could be fixed. Perhaps drilling the V blocks for cap screws that would screw into the

2-3-4 block.

Use a "set screw" from the side of the 2-3-4 block to adjust the block before tighten> >

Reply to
Louis Ohland

Not easily I'd expect since the blocks should be hardened and ground, making tapping them after the fact difficult.

Reply to
Pete C.

Are you putting both scope mounts and iron sights on it? If so the front dove tail would need support.

I had to think for a while to imagine how a tapered barrel lies in a vee block. My brain told me a line of contact on both side but until I took tapered line up punch and vee blockto verify, I wasn't ready to bet myself money on it.

Can you support the action in the mill vise and then clamp your vee block to an angle plate at the barrel end?

Wes

Reply to
Wes

Mm. Well, thanks for raining on my parade...

If they would be difficult to tap, then I could use bolts to pass through, and T nuts tapped for the bolt size.

Pete C. wrote:

Reply to
Louis Ohland

Dad uses a scope. Eyes aren't good enough for iron.

In this case, the barrel was straight (thank God!) It's a match barrel, and it loves the hell out of Yellow Jackets from Remington. Sorta odd, YJs are not IMHO the classical match ammo in any stretch of the imagination.

Dad simply turned the action 180 and reclamped it to the angle plate to mill out the dovetail for the forearm hanger.

The end of a tapered barrel will touch the sides of a V block at three points at the most, depending on whether the block is square to the table or on a angle plate. On an angle plate, the barrel will touch at each side of the v, along the circumference of the barrel, and at a point on the lower front edge of the muzzle (not exactly, but this is machining, not rocket science).

Sure, you could, but how is one to determine if the bore is parallel to the table?

Reply to
Louis Ohland

In this case the barrel is straight. You could use an indicol and test indicator to tram the side and then top of barrel. A level would get it close enough up and down also for this application.

If you have an edge finder, you can use it to kick off at both ends of barrel until you have the barrel aligned with the table long axis.

If you only have a piece of smooth rod you can clamp in the spindle, use that and feelers to check clearance on side from one extreme to another and then the top. The lenght of that barrel is working in your favor.

Feelers can be paper or whatever you got to work with.

HTH,

Wes

Reply to
Wes

Well, that does it for a straight barrel. Taper?

Wes wrote:

Reply to
Louis Ohland

I thought about that a bit. I'm embarrassed to admit that indicating a close fitting mandrill or stub sticking out of muzzle is the best I can come up with at the moment. When turning a stub, two separated rings of contact vs the whole lenght in barrel is the way to go.

Wes

Reply to
Wes

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