Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I can do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.
I guess I would use a piece of wood and see it I could scrape out
enough of whatever it is on the wood to determine what it really is.
Obviously it is not coming out on any tooling you have used, so is
pretty hard.
I am guessing his is on a lathe, so is probably swarf that was locked
in by another MT5 tool.
Anyway a wooden broom handle or other wood dowel should be your first
choice to try to clear the problem.
Paul
Iggy,
You need to borrow a MT 5 finish reamer, thoroughly wet the bore with diesel
or kerosene and rotate the reamer lightly. I guess I should have anticipated
this and at least asked the question, sorry. I have one of those as well, if
you do not have a local source.
Steve
Some sort of crud could be numerous things. You should be able to determine
what's in there that doesn't belong there.
An appropriate soft, improvised tool should be able to remove it. A similar
tool can probably clean the hole.
Maybe you could determine what the stuff isn't.
It's a MT5 after all.
Cydrome should be able to offer an explanation. I hope he doesn't
disappoint.
I'd try attacking it with water and a rag, then aromatic solvent and a rag,
don't have
spindle under power if rag and finger are in the hole.
Then there is that green dishwashing pad if you want to step up the level of
agressiveness.
Wes
What I use for crusted oil spooge is mechanical scraping (to get the
bulk off) followed by acetone (which gets the last residue off).
Acetone will also strip paint, so be careful where it splashes or runs.
Then shine a very bright light into the bore and take a look.
I ended up very lightly stoning the inside of the taper to take the
dings and rust spots down, the point being to grind away only the stuff
that sticks up above the surface.
I also used the hi-light blue and selective sanding approach to find and
remove some larger dings.
But do all this with great caution, to not make things worse. The
surfaces need not be pretty to mate properly and yield low runout.
Joe Gwinn
On Sat, 06 Dec 2008 09:02:01 +0000, the infamous Mark Rand
scrawled the following:
Is Tawmy boy putting hexes on folks lately?
--
Smell is a potent wizard that transports you across
thousands of miles and all the years you have lived.
-- Helen Keller
HEY....McMaster's 4864a2 is the perfect thing to clean out the bore. OK, it
just happens to be one of my inventions. I'd offer one to Ig but the next
batch isn't scheduled for production until January and Old Tommy Hubbart's
cupboard is bare.
On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 21:43:30 -0500, the infamous "Buerste"
scrawled the following:
Doh! I thought you were speaking in hexidecimal. Mea culpa.
I should learn not to jump into the end of a conversation.
McMaster sez it's for a die grinder, BUT, max RPM is 1800 and:
"Insert the brush into the workpiece before turning on the power tool
to keep the brush from breaking off and becoming a dangerous
projectile."
Careful with that floppy, Eugene.
--
Smell is a potent wizard that transports you across
thousands of miles and all the years you have lived.
-- Helen Keller
The max RPM is rated at 1,800 when it's NOT inserted into a bore. You put
it in an air die grinder, insert it into a bore, then hit the throttle. The
spring compresses and the wire flares out like an umbrella. Then you run it
up and down the bore, it self centers. Kill the throttle and stop the die
grinder while it's still in the bore, the spring expands and encloses the
wire again, then pull the spring brush out.
I've tested these up to 2,600 free of a bore and it whips around and could
easily break and kill you if it were to run faster. Usually, the load on a
die grinder with the brush whipping around prevents the die grinder from
going very fast. It's one of those magic tools that works well when used
right but could be dangerous in the wrong hands...I won't let my nephew play
with one!
One of my better ideas, I sell about 5,000/month. (helps make up for my
many, many stupid ideas)
If you want to wait until January, I'll send you a freebe.
The max RPM is rated at 1,800 when it's NOT inserted into a bore. You put
it in an air die grinder, insert it into a bore, then hit the throttle. The
spring compresses and the wire flares out like an umbrella. Then you run it
up and down the bore, it self centers. Kill the throttle and stop the die
grinder while it's still in the bore, the spring expands and encloses the
wire again, then pull the spring brush out.
I've tested these up to 2,600 free of a bore and it whips around and could
easily break and kill you if it were to run faster. Usually, the load on a
die grinder with the brush whipping around prevents the die grinder from
going very fast. It's one of those magic tools that works well when used
right but could be dangerous in the wrong hands...I won't let my nephew play
with one!
One of my better ideas, I sell about 5,000/month. (helps make up for my
many, many stupid ideas)
Neat tool. How flexible are the bristles?
I'm wondering if it would work to clean the EGR passages on engines.
They are irregular shaped and the usual method is to use a small
scraper, wires and brushes. Something that would reach into the bore and
then open during use could be handy.
I did come up with a unique way to clean the EGR tubes used on some
vehicles. A bore snake does an OK job.
On easily examined exterior surfaces I've had good luck with an
aluminum scraper, then scrubbing with kero and fine steel wool until
shiny metal appears. Usually the function of a precision surface isn't
harmed by a few low spots although it's hard to take off even 0.0001"
with fine steel wool. I think the crust on old machines might be
polymerized lard oil.
Jim Wilkins
On Sun, 7 Dec 2008 01:21:11 -0500, the infamous "Buerste"
scrawled the following:
Very cool.
Send one (oops, misplaced the instruction sheet) to stryped, please.
It just might lessen the number of trolls who taunt us, wot?
Lesbians are creative critters, aren't they? My NoteSHADE is not
original but is the perfect (titter) upgrade to an old idea using
modern materials.
--
At current market valuations (GM is worth less than Mattel)
the Chinese government can afford to buy GM with petty cash.
--Bertel Shmitt on kencan7 blogspot
On Sun, 7 Dec 2008 01:23:33 -0500, the infamous "Buerste"
scrawled the following:
-snip of McMaster thread-
Ooh, are "Me, Too"s allowed here? They sound like the perfect
roto-rooter tool for short lengths of rusted pipe/tubing.
P.S: Have you tried them inside square tubing? Do they work well, OK,
poorly, or just self-destruct in seconds?
--
At current market valuations (GM is worth less than Mattel)
the Chinese government can afford to buy GM with petty cash.
--Bertel Shmitt on kencan7 blogspot
I would start with increasingly aggressive solvents to dissolve as much
as you can. This is guaranteed not to mess up the bore. Then, I'd get
(preferably borrow) the right Spin-L-Mate to clean up what's left. They
are specifically designed for this job, there are three different grades
of wipers to deal with different levels of gunk, and they work well. The
only downside is that they cost $$. A #5 MT is $133, and from the sounds
of it, you may need to get a set of the heavy duty blades. Note: for
some reason the factory wants a LOT less $$ than MSC.
Doug White
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