Cleaning morse taper in headstock

speaking of cleaning bores - if there was a way to clean the air injection ports on my 993 with some kind of cool brush like thing, that would be a great boon - and it would be something that could be sold widely - these cars are infamous for having carbon block the ports, leading to a MIL light and then (if you are the typical "clean hands" type owner), a $10,000 service charge to pull engine, pull heads, and rebuild.

the ports are between 3/16 and 1/4 inch in diameter and are above the valve stems, so you can see them (barely) once the exhaust manifold is pulled. they go into passages cast in the head and the carbon builds up in these twisty little passages. There are FAQs on the web about how to clean using injector cleaner, but this is not totally effective.

There is access by going up into the ports (around the valve stem), and there is an aprox 3/8 ID tube that carries air into the heads for injection - but I have no idea what the internals of the passages in the heads look like. the "mini-snakes" I have been able to build won't clean it out, though on occasion high pressure air and enough solvent will.

here is a link to a FAQ about this with some photos that may help explain

so, here is a new project for those who are inventive and knowlegable.

I know most of the online stuff uses injector cleaner. The problem is that injector cleaner isn't designed for true carbon deposits. What you want is GM top cylinder cleaner. It is made to dissolve carbon.

It is the same problem that the 4.3 and a couple other GM engines have. The carbon builds up and a chunk breaks loose and blocks the passages. I use the top cylinder cleaner once a year to clear out the crud on my own vehicles and it is one of the things I use in the shop for the same reason. The stuff actually works.

I can count the chemicals in the shop that work as advertised on both hands. Many of them are crap. However Sea Foam, GM top cylinder cleaner, Break Free, and Techron injector cleaner have FAR exceeded what the claims are in my experience.

On the subject of brushes it sounds like you have specific uses as well. In your case you can only reach one end so a flexible twisted wire brush would be good. Look at the brushes sold to clean out spray guns.

Email me your ship-to address and constantly remind me...I have the attention span of a goldfish.

On Sun, 7 Dec 2008 19:42:55 -0500, the infamous "Buerste" scrawled the following:

No answer to these two questions?

That long? Will do, Tawm. Gracias, mein monsieur.

-- At current market valuations (GM is worth less than Mattel) the Chinese government can afford to buy GM with petty cash. --Bertel Shmitt on kencan7 blogspot

On Sun, 7 Dec 2008 19:42:55 -0500, the infamous "Buerste" scrawled the following:

I would but your email bounced. Try lj3 at the above addy after fixing the V, please.

-- At current market valuations (GM is worth less than Mattel) the Chinese government can afford to buy GM with petty cash. --Bertel Shmitt on kencan7 blogspot

Consider

">> so, here is a new project for those who are inventive and knowlegable.

so, what is Sea Foam good for? I have a car that is painted Sea Foam Green, so I have a natrual tendancy to think of it as just green paint

thanks for the tip on top cleaner, I'll see if I can find som

I don't have time to extensively test products and I don't want to expose my people to all the danger. So, I send them to unsuspecting fools to try different applications and hope they survive to report their findings. Well, you are going to try them on square tubing for me? Let me know how it works out.

Sea Foam is a great cleaner for small engines and 2 strokes. It also works as a fuel system cleaner. Not cheap but it has cleaned deposits that nothing else touched.

Believe it or not, a sharp pocket knife will do a good job. Good illumination and spotting blue dye is very helpful in detecting the high spots. Clean both parts, and apply a VERY thin layer of dye to the male taper. Insert lightly and twist a bit. You should get spots of dye on all the high spots. Burrs can be gently scraped away with the knife blade with little risk of gouging into the taper. if you have big rings of galled metal due to spinning a tight arbor in the taper, that is harder to fix, and may require just removing that entire ring.

You'd be amazed how much a few tiny dings will affect the seating and grip of the arbor. Usually, though, they don't affect the alignment all that much.

Jon

On Mon, 8 Dec 2008 08:18:00 -0500, the infamous "Buerste" scrawled the following:

Fine. What does my Hazardous Duty pay come to again? Maybe I'll be able to afford another of your wondrous naughty wire brushes.

-- At current market valuations (GM is worth less than Mattel) the Chinese government can afford to buy GM with petty cash. --Bertel Shmitt on kencan7 blogspot

well, that is interesting - do you think it will work to remove congealed/hardened gas? I have a older Porsche (1956 356A) that I let sit for a few years and the gas congealed - I pumped out the gas tank and redid the inside with sloshing compound, but I haven't attempted to clean out the fuel lines yet - I was imagining spray carb cleaner and a little mini roter-rooter - is sea foam a better choice?

Best thing for old gooey gas is straight lacquer thinner. Sea Foam would work but it's a lot of expense for that use.

BUT make sure that you can open both ends of the line and that no expensive rubber/plastic pieces get a bath in the thinner. It will clean out any of the crud and leave the system dry and ready to rust as well. As soon as you get it cleaned out I would pump some trans fluid or other thin oil through the lines to keep them from rusting while you work on the rest of the vehicle.

At wood working stores and websites they sell strong plastic reamers. It is a morse - you select. There is a 'sharp' edge that scrapes and cleans off everything. Traps it in a slot at the scraper edge.

Mart> Ignoramus6679 wrote: