1. Home
  2. ⏣ General Metalworking
  3. Colander Repair ~ 8 years later

Colander Repair ~ 8 years later

In RCM thread ?Colander Repair? (December 2009), I reported the failure
of the spot welds holding the three feet onto my wife?s favorite colander,
ideal for draining just-cooked pasta, that she had had for at least 30 years.
After much discussion on RCM, I settled on using solid stainless (18/8) steel
rivets from McMaster-Carr. The repair was made in January 2010, and has held
until now, when the two welds on one foot let go. The third weld had been
failed and was drilled out and riveted in 2010. The foot now rotates freely
around that rivet. This will not last. So replaced all the welds with rivets,
from the box of 100 rivets purchased in 2010.
Drilled using a #41 drill (tight fit) and Mobilmet cutting oil. Took a lot of
deburring - the bowl metal is very gummy. Installed rivets using an 8-ounce
ball peen hammer and a piece of 1? diameter 4149 stock with one end turned
flat to serve as the anvil. Wash the cutting oil off using very hot water and
lots of dish detergent.
Joe Gwinn
Reply to
Joseph Gwinn
Loading thread data ...
That's the way to buy hardware. Given the single piece prices, it's often just a buck or two to move from the 10-pack up to a box of 100. And you always need 11 when they sell 10pks or 23 when they sell 20pks, don't you? Murphy is alive, well, and working in Hardware.
Drilling stainless can be tricky, can't it? I learned the hard way.
Don't you hate it when you have to repair something you've already fixed, just 8 years earlier? ;) I'm surprised that you didn't drill and rivet the third one then, though. If 2/3 of them had already failed...
Reply to
Larry Jaques
On Apr 30, 2017, Larry Jaques wrote (in article):
To your point, that box of 100 cost $7.
It isn?t tricky so much as different than 1018 and the like. With SS, one spins the bit slow and pushes hard without letting up until through, to undercut the work-hardened material at the bottom of the hole.
It was wel less than half of all welds that had failed in 2009, and my theory of the day was that the ones that failed were incompletely spot welded. One could see that the welds were uneven by looking at the weld spots on the inside surface of the bowl, so I drilled and riveted only the ones with underdone weld spots. Now we see that this theory is not totally correct - three spot welds may be sufficient here. I have a spot welder, but not one with the electrodes to tack feet to bowl bottom, or I?d do a ring of spot welds on each foot.
This time I just drilled and riveted all remaing spot welds. This should outlive me.
Joe Gwinn
Reply to
Joseph Gwinn
Not bad.
Yes, I work-hardened the first hole and sacrificed the bit to finish it. It was a very expensive TiN coated HF bit, too.
"Oh, only half." he chided.
Yes.
But the rivets work well, do they not?
Bueno, bwana.
Reply to
Larry Jaques
On May 1, 2017, Larry Jaques wrote (in article):
Too soon to tell. Come back in ten years. And I still have 90 rivets.
I bet it will never fail, because a rivet head is 0.200? in diameter, versus a few tiny weld nuggets. Joe Gwinn
Reply to
Joseph Gwinn
That's the way to buy hardware. Given the single piece prices, it's often just a buck or two to move from the 10-pack up to a box of 100.
*** Yeah. No freaking kidding. When I found out the nut and bolt vendor just that's closer to my house and shop than any of the hardware stores was open half a day on Saturday I celebrated. Not much more annoying than driving all the way to Lowes or Home Depot for a handful of screws that cost several dollars when I know I can box of a hundred for the same price (or less) at Copperstate.
Reply to
Bob La Londe

Further Reading

  • Colander Repair

  • A few days ago, a foot broke off of my wife's favorite colander. I was...

  • Colander Repair - Completed

  • In December 2009, I started a thread titled "Colander Repair" (on the best way...

  • 10 Years Later

  • Ah...! You have one of the later versions. When I get back to SoCal tommorow...

  • Cincinnati 220-8 Repair!

  • We have bought an old cincinnati 220-8 centerless grinder. I waswondering if...

  • Waterpik repair

  • The battery-powered WP-360 Water Flosser eventually slows down, so I buy ...

  • Foam wing repair ?

  • I was wondering what you guys use to repair an uncovered foam wing ? I got a...

  • Minimum radius for 2-8-8-2

  • OK - I've put my Big Boy up for sale on eBay, but I may hold onto my...

  • Sorghum Mill Repair

  • I have a friend who is trying to repair an old sorghum mill. Themajor problem...

  • Dump Truck repair

  • I've been asked to repair the main hinge on an old dump truck where the...

  • Draw now build later

  • Do not wait until the credit crunch is over to start the design phaseof your...

  • Tecumseh engine repair

  • I have a shredder with an 8 HP Tecumseh horizontal shaft engine. It'san old...

  • HD cylinder head repair?

  • Wonder if anyone can help with info regarding the best rod to use for tigwelded...

  • LCD display repair?

  • Sod it. Drink the alcohol and have a party. Put off reality until a later...

  • Slowstick Repair

  • This question is from a newbie to RC. I just got into the sport with aSlowstick...

  • Stove grate repair

  • I saw Dan's post above where he said he sent you the invar. Good for him....

  • My 3D printer plays Jingle Bells with stepper motors

  • "Ignoramus31816" wrote in message news: Now try "Montagues and Capulets" from...
  • « previous thread

  • Old tractor and battery terminals

  • Speaking of old tractors, I can't get a good contact to the battery terminal on...
  • next thread »

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.