Not arguing here, but in my experience nails popping out is generally due to under-engineering in the manners of: movement caused by too much space between joists, and nails too short.
I know there are other causes, but I've seen nails pop due to those causes.
I'm not buying anything you wrote in this post.
I'm sorry, but there's no way on earth a hammer is faster than a nail gun. I've used both, I'm good at both. Not buying it.
I have two 18V XRP drills, one a "compact" model (which isn't compact). I found one for less than $100 (less than the price of two batteries) on the get-it-outta-here table at HomeDespot. I also have the 6-1/2" circular saw, so six batteries. I don't use the drills often, though. I would much rather use the 12V Bosch and the Impactor. I'd break them out if I built a deck, though. ;-)
Maybe, but mine were 16" OC. The nails? For me, screws are easier in the long run.
Screws don't wreck the wood coming out, either.
They sure do around here. I think one house of six, built in the last year in my neighborhood, had a hammer on the property. They aren't too bothered scrambling around on the rafters.
Not a chance in hell that a hammer is faster. Watch them do shingles some time. Wait, does *anyone* hammer down shingles anymore?
I'm certainly not a pro, but I use Phillips, Robertson, and TORX/Star screws, in about the same numbers (prefer TORX, if I can find them). Bits for all of them are pretty common, even in the junk stores.
You don't change the technique, you change the DIRECTION. ;-)
Good on you lad!
I managed to drive 10 with a brand new one 4 weeks ago.
Gunner
Predrilling
Yep. I use a lot of oak for framing temporary sheds like in the photos. If I don't predrill the lag screws break off when I remove them later. I salvaged the oak beams from pallets for kitchen counter sheets and use them for rafters. The wood is almost as hard as 1980's Chinese cast iron.
jsw
As I stated this varies from crew to crew. Sheeting, follow up, is typically, always done, with nailguns by the junior apprentice.
Some crews, here, will not allow powered nailguns on the job due to safety concerns.
No Building Code or Electrical Inspectors, here, will will enter the buiding if one is in operation. There are many reasons.
I have used both. Guns are faster for me but then I can't drive a 3.1/2" ardox nail in with one crack like the framers I know...LOL
Not many frame with shingles.
Shingle warranties are usually voided with use of power nailers. Most roofers here, use them anyway.
On Sun, 23 May 2010 23:11:55 -0500, " snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" wrote the following:
I only do the occasional small shed reroof and never bothered to buy a roofing gun. It probably makes about a 2 hour difference in time. My hammah handle still has the marker line across it I used for aligning the shingles.
--------------------------------------------------- I drive way too fast to worry about my cholesterol. ---------------------------------------------------
On Sun, 23 May 2010 23:10:06 -0500, " snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" wrote the following:
5 out of 6 use hammers around here (for framing, anyway.) Every time I pass a house going up, I hear the methodical hammer reports.--------------------------------------------------- I drive way too fast to worry about my cholesterol. ---------------------------------------------------
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On Sun, 23 May 2010 23:15:37 -0500, " snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" wrote the following:
I can usually find torx in 4" here, but most are phillips or square in
1-5/8 to 3-1/2" sizes. I, too, prefer torx, square, and phillips, in that order. For repair work, I prefer that they used square. Dirt usually comes out of those quickly and they come out more readily.Have you seen the new type of screws? You hammer 'em in, fer chrissake. That's a bit of a technique change. ;)
--------------------------------------------------- I drive way too fast to worry about my cholesterol. ---------------------------------------------------
The low torque is great when drilling with an pneumatic in thin metal, at least my wrists think so when it binds.
Mark
I guess I can't say what goes on in the UK, but if there were stats on tool injuries, I'm guessing there would be more broken thumbs from hammers than busted kneecaps from air nailers misfiring.
Again, I'd love to see these reasons. Those things are very powerful at the tip. But the most damage you'll get from one being fired through the air is a bit of a scratch, maybe a drop or two of blood. I suppose you'd hurt your eye... but then again, I've been hit by more nails ricocheting from bad hammer hits than anything else.
You can't shoot a guy full of holes, from across the room, like you see in the movies.
Guns are faster for anyone.
We are getting away from what the original question is. I have not seen an air drill with a clutch only because they wouldn't be of much use. Air tools are specific in use not like electric which tries to cover many uses. So hence why they don't have a clutch because there are air impact drivers and air screwdrivers. I do agree that if air powered was better that you would see many more contractors using them (except nailers).
The question you have to ask yourself, is "Am I going to use it after the job is done?". If you don't have much other use for it beyond the scope of the deck, I wouldn't go that route. Then think about compressor capacity. Is your compressor capable of the scfm needed for the drill? Since it would be in use for longer durations, you need a compressor that is at least a 30 gallon or higher and able to deliver at least 8-9 scfm at 90 psi. Then if your compressor is smaller, it constantly has to play catch up and then it is running nonstop. It would be about the same as if you left your table saw running the entire time you were building the deck. Not very good on the electric bill.
I myself would go the cordless impact driver way since you said it is about 140 square feet. You said that your drill is about 7 years old. I would look at a drill/impact driver kit and keep your old one for the times you could use 2 drills. I doubt that you would find an impact driver kit that you could use the batteries on your old drill.
I have an air drill, It is nice for drilling wood because of the low torque and high rpm, but I would not try to drive screws with it.
Allen
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