Contact Burnisher?

Couldn't you take the appropriate grade of crocus cloth or whatever, folded over, an actual feeler gauge, and get the same effect?

Note to self: polish points on electric blanket controller, before it gets cold.

Places that sell electronics stuff also usualy sell the tools. Radio Shack, with it's new policiy of dropping all of the electronics parts won't probably be a good place tho.

-- Why do penguins walk so far to get to their nesting grounds?

I just use one of the emery boards sold for fingernails.

Yes its a bit rough but very light use seems to work ok.

Talk to your dentist. Thy have a narrow flexible strip wit two grades of abrasives. While you are at it ask the to give you any worn down dental picks. You'd be surprised what they throw out.

Regards,

Boris Mohar

Got Knock? - see: Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things)

void _-void-_ in the obvious place

Damn, I thought those things had gone out with the Charleston! (and points files)

Why don't you just throw out the whole stove and buy another one? What's wrong with you? It's a disposable-products, consumption-driven, economy, doncha know? :)

Unhappily consumers are now being considered just as disposable as the products.

Try

Jonard Pocket Contact Burnishers Part Numbers:

125-206 Burnisher w/flat blades 191-554 Burnisher w/ flat and round blades

They also sell just the blade refill packs

Regards

Bob rgentry_at_oz_dot_net _AT_ = @, _dot_ = . to eMail

On Tue, 22 Nov 2005 20:07:25 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, John Husvar quickly quoth:

Points files did, but burnishers are still in use in industrial settings. Those $600 breakers and relays need TLC. I just didn't want to pay $17 for a pen + $7.50 to ship it to me.

I can't afford one due to high gasoline prices. ;) (Down to $2.42.9 today. Yippee!)

Sad as hell, isn't it?

-------------------------------------------------------------------- I sent in my $5, so *

why haven't I been 'saved'? * Graphic Design - Humorous T-shirts

Yes, I know, just trying to be funny -- sorta.

I kept at least one in my toolbox and one in my wallet for years for dressing contacts on the old drum switch sequencers.

I'm not sure what, but it's gotta say something that we can see gasoline priced under $3 and think it's a good price. :)

Worse yet, I drive a 1990 E350 with the 7.3 diesel. Diesel's always higher than gasoline around here.

I guess I shouldn't complain too much. The old thing still makes 20 mpg+ on the highway. Around town is a different story.

Yea, verily! :)

Two days after reading your post our kitchen wall "Regulator" style pendulum clock stopped at 5:20 AM.

It's about 25 years old and has a somewhat unusual movement, which dates from just before inexpensive quartz clocks hit the market and took over.

The movement is essentially that of a spring wound tick-tock pendulum clock, but instead of having to wind the clockspring by hand with a key, there's a small PM motor powered by a single D cell battery which does that job. (And the battery lasts 4 or 5 years.)

A simple mechanism, with a toggling action snaps a set of contacts closed when the clock runs down a bit whereupon the motor run a few seconds until the clockspring is fully wound and the contacts snap open.

Our clock stopped because the contacts in that "switch" were a little burned and didn't connect when they sprung closed.

They were relatively easy to access and I used the striker strip from a book of paper matches to burnish them with, a trick I'd learned a zillion years ago. I followed up by running a folded strip of paper through them to clean off any abrasive left on them

It's running like a clock again.

Jeff

On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 16:11:18 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Jeff Wisnia quickly quoth:

Ain't no way you can hang that one on me, bud. ;)

What, it lasted only 25 years between maintenances?

Pretty cool.

That'll do 'er.

That was timely.

I'm just going to have to break down and buy a set of the things. I don't like mickey mousing electronics or electrical stuff unless there's no way around it, and then it's only temporary. I've used point files before, too, but replaced the points later. Thanks for the tip, though.

- In nature's infinite book of secrecy a little I can read. -Shakespeare ------

Website Application & Database Development

Hi Larry,

I worked in electronics repair for a good many years. Save yourself some money and use some fine sandpaper. Usually around 200-320 grit works great. If the contacts are really burnt, you can file them (if you can get a small file in between them, usually not) or use 60-100 grit. I have burnishing tools and they are a waste of time. They do have a use though, but not what you think. Read on.

Cut a narrow strip of sand paper, about 1/8-1/4 inch wide and maybe 2-3 inches long. Now fold this in half and grab it with a pair of hemostats. File or burnish away. When you're happy that you've cleaned them up enough, follow up with a piece of folded over (folded for rigidity) paper or better yet thin cardboard (white card stock variety). Run the paper through like the sandpaper and keep replacing it until it comes out clean.

If you have a burnishing tool, slip the blade/abrasive part out. Now use it sandwiched in between the sand paper you cut out earlier with the hemostat clamping it all together. Better yet cut the sandpaper the same width and length (double so you can fold it over) as the burnishing blade. This gives you an excellent stiff tool (grin) for cleaning contacts with an abrasive surface that is replaceable.

I cleaned a lot of relays, contacts, switches... through the years and this works good. Burnish tools only work if the contact doesn't really need cleaning anyway. If they really needed cleaning and you use a burnishing tool, you'll be back in short order to do it again and again and again...