cutting cast iron

SawsAll.... 110 electric, battery, air, gas.. it dosen't matter....

--.- Dave

A Sazwall with a long metal cutting blade, getting as close to the floor as possible. Use an angle grinder with an abrasive wheel and grind it flush.. fashion a grate as desired.

I had the same situation in the shower of my home. The plumber threw up his arms and said that I needed to bust the concrete out around the pipe. I sent him off for lunch and got out my Dremel tool with an abrasive cutting disk. Working from inside the pipe, I had it cut off neatly by the time he returned. (OK, a small air driven die grinder with a cutting disk would have been faster, but I didn't have one then.) Then we just dug out a bit of concrete and epoxied a plastic bell in place to hold the drain cover. Been that way for 25 years now, so I guess it's going to be OK.

It is amazing the things I have done things with patience and my Dremel tool over the years.

Vaughn

{SawsAll, Dremel recommendations....}

I'd think it would take dozens of Dremel wheels. I love 'em but on something this big.....plus I bet the motor would melt. We have an airdrill that's a little slower but self-cooling.

An airsaw is better than electric SawsAll... it does not overheat.

But what kind of blades do we want for this: 12, 14 teeth/inch, or the Tungston Carbide ones labeled "course"?

If you don't want to saw or grind it off, just drill several holes, maybe

Previous owner of this house installed a two piece washroom on the lower level. He tried (without success) to solder a toilet flange on the stub up through the concrete floor, then every day brought another bag of concrete mix home and mixed it in place behind his form. Once he got the platform approximately high enough, he put a couple layers of foam carpet underlay to try to smooth out the bumps on the surface before he put down the sheet vinyl. Unfortunately he didn't get the hole in the right spot so the opening in the flange was half covered. Once the toilet was installed, it sort of worked. After we moved in, we noticed that the floor was always damp and smelled bad so eventually I ripped it all out, including the stub back to the main drain. I had to modify the flange and elbow below, then silver solder them together to get the flange down to floor level. Lots of fun! but it has worked perfectly for over twenty years. Gerry :-)} London, Canada

Thought of that, but have a 1" line from the WH pan to drain...

If it is cast iron, just take the angle-grinder, score a line around it, and break it off with a hammer. These pipe were (originally) cut with a cold chisel and hammer to score the thing, then finished with hammer taps to break it through. That's the way it was done long before power equipment came into use, and hacksaws weren't much good for that pipe, either.

Youngsters !

Us old pharts may not be able to work rings around you young puppies anymore, but we hold a lot of historical information in the "wetware" that may make your jobs easier.......

Flash

hell all you need to do is drill a few holes in it at floor level

Use whatever you have handy. Sawz-All, angle grinder, Dremel tool, hacksaw. Even a hacksaw blade gripped in a pair of locking pliers. It's just one pipe - you could have cut it in the time it took you to ask.

John Martin