i was wondering if it was possible to make straight cuts in 26 -22 ga
steel (zinc coated and otherwise) with my table saw. i was planning on
using a 3/4" plywood or mdf sled with toggle clamps as hold down. it
seems kinda obvious that this kind of support would be necessary for
nice clean cuts without bending the crap out of the relatively thin
metal. my question is, is this even possible with ANY blade on a table
saw? i have NO idea what type of blade would cut the metal safely.
can anyone recommend anything besides shears? i've tried and they just
didnt cut it.... no pun intended. ok maybe it was. =)
It is possible to get "Cut Off" blades like angle grinder blades of the
right diamtre for table saws to cut thin metal.
I have used them to cut ColourBond metal fencing sheets (thin like roof
iron) and they work just fine. (Do not know your country).
There is a blade known as a "friction" blade used for cutting corrugated
steel roofing. The teeth have no points, just U shaped valleys about the
same width as the teeth, approx 1/4" IIRC. This kind of blade is very noisy
in use and requires ear muffs to be worn by the user.
You almost have it right. Clamping thin metal between two MDF sheets
(preferably with fasteners all-round the sheet, except at the cut line)
Keep your (many-toothed) carbide blade fast. Wear full-face protection AND
glasses underneath, and consider a stout bib, like a welder's apron for hot
chip protection (the stuff HURTS).
This isn't the best way. Try a sheet metal shear .
BTW... It's not easy on the operator, neighbors, or equipment, but I've
resorted to cutting up to 1-1/4" aluminum plate on an ordinary table saw.
(don't have a plasma cutter). It's slow, painful, and noisy. But 'twerks
fine. It even produces a nice cut, if the work is guided accurately, and
the blade is strong enough not to flutter.
While I don't know, or care, if your handsome, having done just this
very thing last evening, I might be able to help.
First, go to
and go to page 2220 of their catalog.
For my project, I was trying to cut 2.5mm wide slices from type 316ss
sheet that was 0.024" thick. I used their part number 45615A117, which
is listed as a high performance cutoff wheel (6"diax0.040"thick) with
5/8" arbor, which is what you will need for a typical table saw. I had
some issues with blade flex, and generating too much heat in the work
piece. If I did it all over again, I would pick their part number
45615A52 (6"diax1/16") with 5/8" arbor. Besides being about 50%
thicker, it is also coarser grit. Heck, at $3.45ea, buy a couple of
each type and find what works better for you. As others here will tell
you, McMaster is a great company to order from. If you are anywhere
near one of their depots, expect your order next day, even with
standard shipping. At an absolute outside, 3 days. Expect reasonable
A couple of notes on procedure. Clean the saw well BEFORE use. All
sawdust buildup MUST be removed. DON'T use your dust collector, if you
have one attached. There will be a lot of sparks, and I'm sure you
don't need a fire to make the experience more interesting. I had to
screw a wood block to one edge of my piece of sheet metal to keep it
from going under the saw fence; you will likely have to do the same. I
found the best performance was with the blade sticking about 1" proud
of the table. With the wood block against the fence, I carefully
pushed the work into the blade with a set of rubber coated push blocks
and never had an issue with binding or catching. You could also rig up
some kind of sled arrangement. I also zero clearance throat insert to
keep the cutoffs above the table.
Stay alert and good luck.
A friend cuts steel and aluminum on his table saw. The blades required
for each are different. A non-ferrous metal cutting blade is needed for
and a ferrous-cutting blade for steel. He used 7-1/4" blades in his 10"
Lowes has (or had) them. He says that the cutting is smooth and not noisy at
He tried the cut-off abrasive disk type and did not like it at all. He
almost mirror smooth cuts with the traditional style blade.
I would be a bit concerned about the type of sled. There are two types:
one that supports both sides of the cut, and the other that supports only
of the cut (sometimes called a panel-cutting jig). The later holds the waste
of the metal up off the table top by 3/4". My friend uses the former - it
both the waste side and the keep side. His sled is aluminum, so the smaller
does not pose as much a problem.
No experience yet myself, but I'll probably try his technique when the need
On 11 Jan 2005 00:30:59 -0800, " firstname.lastname@example.org"
Why not? Use a $5 HF 60- or 80-tooth carbide tipped blade which
can be thrown away afterwards if necessary. You'll have to find the
best angle of attack by adjusting the blade height, but I'd go fairly
high to start. Add muffs, safety glasses, and a face shield.
Clean the sawdust out first, too, eh? (You don't want a fire.)
Last, but not least: don't forget to add good ventilation.
Save the |||
Endangered SKEETS! ||| Web Application Programming