Detroit 353 diesel -- aluminum block? How to tell?

What are you asking here? How to tell if the block is aluminum or not? Try a magnet.

Uh, duh --- I plead brain fart! Sometime the obvious solution just ain't so obvious. Of course...

Anybody know what the problems with the AL block versions might be? Haven't heard any specifics, just "don't get one with an aluminum block".

Bob, Just make sure to check the block and the heads separate of eachother. It's very common for an iron block to be mated with aluminum heads.

Respects,

Rob Fraser

Fraser Competiti>> What are you asking here? How to tell if the block is aluminum or not? >> Try a

I'm not sure if detroit had any engines with aluminum heads, and I'm amazed to know they did produce a diesel with an aluminum block. I would say that the majority of problems would be electrolisis (sp) eating away the block especially if raw water cooling in salt water. also the problem with mis matching materials (AL block, copper gasket, and cast iron head) would be the expansion and contraction issue witht he aluminum eventually wearing the head gaskets out. But don't know that for a fact.

Wow, a 3-53 in a boat"? 159 cubic inches!

is this for a gen set? or the main engine?

Yes, but it being a 2 Cycle multiply that by 2 and add a blower. Steve

Tim --

Yep, they used to be pretty common main engines in small workboats and utility craft, now mostly used for deck engines and gen sets. The marine engine configuration produces just over 100 hp naturally aspirated.

Bob

Interesting. I know the old 6-71 "jimmy" was a 426 CID and was rated at 238 hp in a standard (not marine) configuration. So I'm amazed that the little 3-53 can obtain 100hp.

Dunno about Detroit Diesel in particular, but in general I know that an aluminum block engine will last forever if it's designed right (i.e. if it's not a Vega engine) and it's maintained right. "Maintained right" for an Al block engine requires a lot more attention to the coolant than Fe block engines, which is why so many die early deaths in automotive applications.

If, as mentioned in another post, they're running salt water through it's veins you can probably take it as "not designed right".

The Vega was an aluminum block and cast iron head, a particularly odd combination. If you allowed it to overheat, even a LITTLE, like stuck in traffic, it would warp the head. A little hotter and the head would crack. And, of course, no iron liners, just silicon-aluminum with the aluminum etched back in the bores.

Jon

It was, I believe, the cylinder bores that were usually at fault -- they worked well in theory, but if you got the slightest scuff in the bore it'd go through the nitriding and then the whole thing would wear out exceedingly fast.

Any time anyone needs to know the difference between "inexpensive" and "cheap", just park a Vega next to a VW bug and give them a guided tour.

What size is the hull and what material is it made of?

Bob, by searching around the typical listings on a naturally aspirated

The naturally aspirated (non-turbocharged) 6-71 can produce up to 320 hp depending on the injectors used. I have the Johnson & Towers 280 hp version on my trawler.

If you have worked around the 71 series and somebody lights off a 53 you'll figure out real quick how they got that horsepower. They were real screamers for their day.

The only ones I worked on were in 5 ton yard cranes but I believe there was a turbo option for them also.

Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom)

Oh OK, I see they're pushing it up to 2800 rpm, instead of the customary 2100 max. That might be the clue to the 100 hp.

I didn't realize that Wayne. Thanks!

But then again when I was talking the lower hp ranges, I was mentioning "standard" version of the engines, too.

Bob,

What size is the hull and of what material is it made?

Thanks