I'd like to attach a 20" Husqvarna bar to an Alaskan mill with flush flathead screws instead of the provided clamps to increase lower side clearance for slabbing some of the bark off logs too wide to fit my sawmill. I found suggestions for using a carbide masonry or glass drill in the hardened steel, but nothing on possible damage to the tip sprocket pivot from drilling through it between the four rivets.
As I am sure you are aware, but "chainsaw mill" is a thing. How do they manage securing the blade on those?
Maybe just knock out 1 or 2 rivets and use those holes?
Youtube video here where a guy takes the roller tip off an Oregon Bar:
As I am sure you are aware, but "chainsaw mill" is a thing. How do they manage securing the blade on those? Bob La Londe
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The chainsaw bar is held between clamps at both ends. These clamps are square hollow steel tubing joined by bolts at the ends, with short strips of steel welded to the inner sides in the center to space out the tubes clear of the chain. Tapped holes in the centers of the clamps can be used to screw the bar more securely in place if it's drilled to match. That is what I want to do, to eliminate the bottom clamp so the bar can cut a wider slab part way down the curve of the log.
The chainsaw guide I have clamps the blade perpendicular to a 2x6 that the guide slides on. It works well on logs that are only a little too wide but doesn't allow the bar to reach through the slab on thicker ones, because the saw body is above the 2x6 and the clamp that holds the bar.
Maybe just knock out 1 or 2 rivets and use those holes?
----------------------------------- That's a good idea to avoid drilling the hardened center of the bar tip sprocket bearing. The rivets on mine are smaller than I want the screw(s) to be so I tried a 1/8" Harbor Freight glass drill reground nearly to a split point, which did the job. A 3/16" glass drill opened the hole for a #10 screw (~5mm) which is close to the 6mm provided to screw the bar to the lower clamp.
Since I want to use it to cut off a slab part way down the rounded edge of logs the clearance needs to be greater on the bottom side and the lower bar clamp would be in the way. I cut off only enough to fit the log between the uprights of the sawmill carriage.
The clearance is 22". If I'd made it 24" I could have sold a carpenter friend a custom solid oak bar top blank for around $1000. His customer demanded just a little more length and width than my saw's capacity.
I turn these logs to cut another side by hanging their ends from loops of rope run through snatch block winch recovery pulleys. A Peavey hook lever is enough to turn a 2000 Lb log.
Maybe just knock out 1 or 2 rivets and use those holes?
----------------------------------- That's a good idea to avoid drilling the hardened center of the bar tip sprocket bearing. The rivets on mine are smaller than I want the screw(s) to be ...
--------------------- Also the grease holes are aligned with the ID of the sprocket, the roller bearing outer race, so I can't see the size of the inner pivot which might not have enough clearance to open the rivet holes. A 20" bar that fits my saw, which was meant for 18" max, is expensive and hard to find. Longer bars use a different chain pitch and tip sprocket.
My saw is a little below the suggested minimum for an Alaskan mill though it's been enough for occasional partial-width slabbing with a different ripping guide that's tricky to align accurately. I just finished cutting off a first slab and am about to start the other side.
The guide is this type:
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