Welding a Nut to a Broken Tap

Apr 20, 2026 Last reply: 3 months ago 2 Replies

FAILURE



First off I pretty much only buy HSS taps. They tend (generally) to be tougher than carbon steel taps.



Today I broke a bottoming tap off in a mold. DANG-IT! At first I just said one of the synonyms of poop over and over a few times. Maybe emphatically with other expletives for emphasis.



Then I figured, "What the heck. The mold is ruined (well not saleable) anyway. I'll try welding a nut to the tap. I thought MIG might be the trick since the wire would poke down inside the nut, but it broke off at the first since of pressure. Then I tried TIG which after I finally quit sticking the nut to the tungsten and regrinding it kinda work, but it also popped off pretty easy. Then I tried sticking little dabs of stainless wire to the top of the tap until there was a little column of material I could slide the nut down over. Let me say this is way beyond my skill level. Then I slid the nut on, and started an arc, added a little material, and let it cool.



It worked... sorta. The column of material stuck to the tap. The nut stuck to the column of filler. The tap just broke off a little deeper.



I drilled it in a different place for handles and added it to my personal collection of molds after stamping an X on all sides to remind me its now a reject. Its replacement is machining right now.



Maybe (but I doubt it) off I had cooled it off slowly in vermiculite overnight and then heated the aluminum mold I might have had a chance, but my gut reaction is the result would have been the same. The tap was just to stuck and it would still just break off deeper.



However, if I had done that with a carbon steel tap I think it might have worked. The tap would have been annealed partially and no longer been as fragile.



I don't know. I just thought the anecdote might be useful to somebody else. It didn't really cost me anything except a few cents worth of filler and a few cents worth of gas to give it a try.


FAILURE

First off I pretty much only buy HSS taps. They tend (generally) to be tougher than carbon steel taps.

Today I broke a bottoming tap off in a mold. DANG-IT! At first I just said one of the synonyms of poop over and over a few times. Maybe emphatically with other expletives for emphasis.

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Since the TIG may have annealed it, perhaps you could see if a carbide masonry or glass drill in a centering sleeve cuts it now. I drilled the hard sprocket pivot on a chainsaw bar with a glass drill, to attach the bar to an Alaskan mill with nothing protruding below the bottom side. Hopefully it will allow slabbing a larger log.

The shank end of HSS drill bits can be soft enough to turn down with HSS lathe bits to fit smaller, shorter drill chucks or collets. I copied the hex and retention groove of a 1/4" quick connect shank on a 3/8" drill bit.

I've used cheap diamond plated hole saws to remove a broken 3/8" UNF tap. I had some in a suitable size to cut down the flutes largely missing the core and the cutting edges, it took 2 or 3 but they were cheap and it saved the part which  I finished off and put to use.

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