Electric Bicycles With High Torque

When you realize that slow eddy is a liar and a fraud that pretends to be a
n expert on every subject this company might interest you if you want to un
derstand current(pun intended) electric bike motor technology:
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"High Speed (S) or High Torque (T)
One of the decisions you will have to make if you buy a Crystalyte is wheth
er you want to go with a motor wound for torque or one wound for speed. So
me of the following factors need to be weighed before making a selection ap
propriate to your needs:
Wheel size
Battery pack voltage you anticipate running
Amperage requirements/limitations
Terrain and riding style requirements: will you be climbing a lot of hills
primarily using it on moderate
How big of hills do you ride? Off-road or blacktop? Aggressive riding style
or around town laidback cruising?
Gearing will change depending on what the size of your wheels are. A 20-in
ch wheeled bike will be geared lower than a 29er, which will be geared supe
r high. The more amps and voltage you pump, the more likely you should go w
ith a speed motor for top speed since torque will not be much of an issue.
However if your daily commute involves climbing steep grades you are better
off with the high-torque motors and smaller wheels, and may want to consid
er limiting the volts and amps to keep from smoking your motor.
Rule of thumb: The HT is more efficient at lower speed; the HS is more effi
cient at higher speed."
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You moron. You were complaining about the "torque problem" with two-stroke IC motor-assisted bikes, and now your reference is for an ELECTRIC motor that comes in two different versions.
Here's where you crashed and burned, Bonkers: The O&R motor that you were complaining about has a CENTIRFUGAL CLUTCH. It is a motor ASSIST that is not intended for accelerating from a dead stop. In fact, it can't because the centifugal clutch won't engage until the motor is well up on its power curve.
Those two-stroke assist motors are not intended to accelerate the bike or to be the sole power going up hills. The same is true with the Solex, or the old Mobilette, or the Honda mo-ped that was never sold in the US. You pedal them up to speed, and then open the throttle. If you're going fast enough, the motor will engage the clutch (in the case of the O&R) and power you along.
That's what they're made for. They don't have a "torque problem." They're limited by power, not by torque, because they're running pretty fast before the centrifugal clutch will even engage. In the Solex, if you aren't going fast enough before you stop pedalling, the motor just dies. They're for cruising, not for accelerating. They aren't motorcycles.
Once again, you're out to lunch, linking to some site that has nothing to do with the subject, because you have no idea what you're talking about.
Reply to
Ed Huntress
No arguement about Bonkers, but when it comes to Mopeds there are different types. Mopeds MUST be pedalled to start.Sometimes you pedal start them on the center stand with the back wheel off the ground. After the engine is running, you CAN take off from a dead start with the motor alone - without pedalling - but you won't take off very quickly. The old Soles and front drive Mobilettes are different - they can start off on their own too, but not without producing tire smoke from the roller spinning against the stopped tire. I owned a Honda PA50 and I very seldom used the pedals.
With electric assist bikes there are 2 types - pedalec and hand throttle. A pedalec system only runs the motor when the pedals are turning, and the output of the motor is proportional to the amount of torque pplied to the pedals. The hand throttle will pull away from a dead stop when you twist the throttle - just like a motorcycle - although not very quickly with a maximum legal output of 500 watts (and in some places only 350) I own and ride a Schwinn I-Zip. I usually do a fair bit of pedalling but I don't need to work up a sweat. It's not fast, and doesn't really like hills very much but it makes them easier for me to climb. It is a 24 volt bike - but with a 36 volt battery pack on a trailer it moves along pretty well -----
Then there are the electric scooters with "vestigal pedals" that would kill you if you had to pedal them for a mile!!!
Reply to
Right. But the O&R is a recoil-start motor. You can start it while the bike is stationary, and rev it up until the centrifugal clutch catches...and then burn up the clutch or burn the drive-wheel rubber right off the shaft, or maybe burn a hole through your tire and tube. I never found out which happens first. So you do have to pedal it to get enough speed for practical starts.
The Solex wouldn't start unless you pedalled it, IIRC. The one I rode in Switzerland, 47 years ago, was 32 cc and had nothing until you got it moving. And it was pedal-start for the initial start, anyway, if I remember correctly. It didn't have a starter.
As you say, they're slow to start in any case. Torque and acceleration are not objectives. You have to get them up on their power curves before you apply a load, or they're bog slow to accelerate. The ones I've ridden were, anyway.
Like the Puch moped that Sears used to sell in the '50s and '60s. A friend in college had one. I tried pedalling it. It was a joke. The pedals were just there so it would legally qualify as a moped rather than a motorcycle.
I haven't tried an electric bike but I'll bet they're a lot better than the IC-powered ones. At least, the good electric bikes.
Reply to
Ed Huntress
In over your head again, eh, Bonkers?
Reply to
Ed Huntress

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