A few wires totally fried. Lucky it didn't start a fire. Had to be towed in off the reef. Some really smart guy slugged the fusible link. Several spots have had a mash together "Y" connection added and then cut out. The rest of the wire is brittle, bend it and the insulation cracks. All the connections are totally salt corroded. The guy that owned the boat before just bypassed things as they failed so there may be stuff I don't know about.
But yea I guess I'm bored. When its too windy to fish, what is a guy supposed to do?
Sounds like the power window/door lock harness in the '83 Dodge Aries we had. The harness was routed across the floor pan just ahead of the seat bulkhead in the lowest part under the drivers feet, all joints were spot welded and loosely wrapped with fabric tape. I had to rebuild the entire harness and by the time I got done talking to the "customer service ombudsman" he wouldn't even admit to having ever learned to ride a bicycle, let alone drive a car. Gerry :-)} London, Canada
Trace it out and rework using proper methods. It should be drop-dead simple on a diesel - there's a solenoid for fuel cut-off at the injector pump,starter circuit, charging circuit and battery feed line, tachometer pickup, oil pressure, water temperature... And that should be about it.
There's more wiring in the boat than on the engine, with the bow and stern lights, bilge blowers, bilge pumps, interior lights, radar, marine radios, AM/FM radios, live-well...
Trust me, I tried tracking down a wiring diagram for a 1962 Dodge Dart one time, and every one I could find was wrong one way or another.
Just hauled out the old one, made up a quickie breadboard on a full sheet of plywood, then dissected the harness and loomed & wrapped a new one on the breadboard out of THHN/MTW Stranded, none of this "Primary Wire" crap. And be generous on the wire gauge - smallest was
18-ga, mostly 14-Ga.
Then gave it an overwrap of the split plastic loom to make sure it never rubbed through on an edge.
And I threw out the factory five-fuse joke panel and added in a big fuseblock to protect everything on it's own - none of this "One fuse protects six different things." Except for the designed-in things like the dashboard lights on the tail-light fuse, so you know when the tail light fuse is blown.
None of the buried splices inside the harness crap. Brought the splices out in the open at a device end, so they could be found later.
Don't terminate the wires till after it's in place and strapped down, so you don't have to deal with it being an inch too short. And leave a little extra slack where you need it.
The friend sold it to a restorer, with any luck it's still running today.