Fixed the "measured shot" ether starting system

The last thing remaining on the MEP-006A generator, was the cold start
system thet releases a "measured shot" of ether into the intake
It would do nothing.
Supplied 24v right to the valve, no click, no movement.
Took valve off, took it apart, found rusted iron plunger that was
engaged by the solenoid, cleaned up. Now it clicks, would not fire.
More screwing around last night. Found crud in passages, cleaned with
welding wire. Got some shots of ether.
Reinstalled back and it now works great.
It is 18 degrees F right now.
The cold start system is very gentle, just barely enough ether to get
the genset going. Which is actually good, as it does not lead to ether
explosions and such.
It works very reliably. So now, the generator is 100% working and
verified. I will try to load test it to 100%, with a homemade 60 kW
load bank that I want to build, and then I will sell it.
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Genset .. hmmm Carbs , cold start ..
propane is cheap , easy to valve , my carb
to replace the OEM , is pc of copper tube , and a steel frame
around it for a practical way to pull the copper tube carb
against the head , Copper because i can easily solder the injection
mechanism into side of tube .. plunger enters the open end
of tube , as a throttle , it rides on a DIY ball screw mechanism
so you twist a crank , and the throttle closes titely , another air entrance
thru a tiny hole , is for idling ,
Injectors are DIY , using sewing needles , into shrunk down 1/8 inch
copper fuel tubes , but from opposite side of big copper tube ,
are poppet valves that can cover the needle valves exit , just in case
there is problems , or to control fuel flow in a digital manner ,
The mcu can select any of 8 injectors to control fuel flow ,
this takes a load off the method of moving needles in and out
to control flow , Sounds complicated ,
yet its fault tolerance , that i need , I dont want complicated
fuel maps , i will have simple cheap sensors and the mcu ( Nintendo DSL )
will not need to be precise , to get good fuel economy .
suppose a needle leaks , and ruins idle mixture ....
mcu selects a needle that dont leak , by closing off the leaking needle
mcu can also up or down , fuel psi to improve a fault condition ,
yet average fuel pressure is 3 PSI ,
All very cheap and easy to build , sensors are simple crank mnted
reluctance type TACH sendors , DIY in minutes , use old 8 penny nails
and old walwarts for the silicon steel , just dont use too much steel , for
the rpm , fine magnet wire will up the voltage , ..
Home Depot CFL curly lights have high voltage NPN transistors to
use as temperature measuring semiconductors , just bias the B E
about .005 mils and read the voltage across the B E , it will
be a very accurate 0.0022 volts / C , now put this transistor transducer
inside the engine somewhere , to tell mcu , engine temp ,
Buy a LM34DZ or sim to SET this DIY thermometer .
I was amased at how close it tracks , I did this 20 years ago on
a Honda car , i put an LM34DZ in place of the cheap transistor junc ,
it tracked perfectly ,,,
back to TACH , RPM , any IC Chip that can dual slope , fixed
de entigrate , , the circuit integrates the crank sensor ....
at idle , integrator gets a well shaped pulse , integrates it , yet
the fixed deintegrate dischages the energy just integrated , to produce
little volt , out , but at high RPM , the pulses are arriving so fast they
dominate the integrator , to raise its DC output , aka Dual slope Integration
Or , just buy a LM2907 from Jamemco for $1. 09 .. Its the famous TACH chip .
But youll need many poles aka magnets on the crank , maybe 6 ,
so that the 2907 will give accurate DC out at engine idle , no problem
at 7000 rpm , the LM2907 easily does this engine speed ,
i have many low cost Japan gensets , and ill also be carb- ing
B18b Accura engines , in airplanes , The B18B and B18C are
strong buillt racing engines , yet you can start a project ,, buying them
at $800 ea from Canada ! Its an opportunity !
My project is a 1500 HP ( B18b times 6 ) pusher prop , bi plane
with folding wings , it fits into a hanger HOLE 9.5 feet tall by 9 foot
wide . Upper wing moves , inflight , forward for weight and balance ,
for take off and landing ,
Its floats fold down , then away and up , to allow landing gear
to deploy , Turbo'd engines have variable intake cam timing to
nix need for waste gate , Thanks to Mr Atkison "cycle" , allows
the turbo to level out the unwanted variations in induction aka
breathing , especially at high altitude , where the intake cam is full advanced
to aide in compressing the thin air , yet at low altitude and economy
cruise , the compression is very low ( cam is retarded up to 60 degrees )
, just high enuf to make the Turbo work at max effeciency .
ignition is a magneto on crank , producing high voltage to a transistor
coil , again ,,, Home Depot curly CFl lites , give the 13003 transistors
to drive the home made ign coil , 12vdc systems are bad , you can always
step down the system voltage from magneto to charge batteries ,
But for lack of transistors , our cars use 15 vdc alternators ,
i dont know how to use
yet i created it , its closed , invite only ,
send email address , ill TRY to figure out how to add it ,
any help appreciated ... It wont be boring ,
everything from computers , Linux , Forth , WXP , to Nintendo DSL controllers to , cars trucks , sand buggies with motorcycles , motorized bike engines , MIG TIG welder power supplies using Flourescent bulbs , DIY Plasma cutters , Hydraulic pump powered air compressors , they're more effecient ,
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