The last thing remaining on the MEP-006A generator, was the cold start
system thet releases a "measured shot" of ether into the intake
It would do nothing.
Supplied 24v right to the valve, no click, no movement.
Took valve off, took it apart, found rusted iron plunger that was
engaged by the solenoid, cleaned up. Now it clicks, would not fire.
More screwing around last night. Found crud in passages, cleaned with
welding wire. Got some shots of ether.
Reinstalled back and it now works great.
It is 18 degrees F right now.
The cold start system is very gentle, just barely enough ether to get
the genset going. Which is actually good, as it does not lead to ether
explosions and such.
It works very reliably. So now, the generator is 100% working and
verified. I will try to load test it to 100%, with a homemade 60 kW
load bank that I want to build, and then I will sell it.
Genset .. hmmm Carbs , cold start ..
propane is cheap , easy to valve , my carb
to replace the OEM , is pc of copper tube , and a steel frame
around it for a practical way to pull the copper tube
against the head , Copper because i can easily solder the
mechanism into side of tube .. plunger enters the open end
of tube , as a throttle , it rides on a DIY ball screw
so you twist a crank , and the throttle closes titely ,
another air entrance
thru a tiny hole , is for idling ,
Injectors are DIY , using sewing needles , into shrunk down 1/8
copper fuel tubes , but from opposite side of big copper tube ,
are poppet valves that can cover the needle valves exit , just
there is problems , or to control fuel flow in a
digital manner ,
The mcu can select any of 8 injectors to control fuel
this takes a load off the method of moving needles in and out
to control flow , Sounds complicated ,
yet its fault tolerance , that i need , I dont want
fuel maps , i will have simple cheap sensors and the mcu
( Nintendo DSL )
will not need to be precise , to get good fuel economy .
suppose a needle leaks , and ruins idle mixture ....
mcu selects a needle that dont leak , by closing off the
mcu can also up or down , fuel psi to improve a fault
yet average fuel pressure is 3 PSI ,
All very cheap and easy to build , sensors are simple crank
reluctance type TACH sendors , DIY in minutes , use old 8
and old walwarts for the silicon steel , just dont use too much
steel , for
the rpm , fine magnet wire will up the voltage , ..
Home Depot CFL curly lights have high voltage NPN transistors
use as temperature measuring semiconductors , just bias the B E
about .005 mils and read the voltage across the B E , it
be a very accurate 0.0022 volts / C , now put this
inside the engine somewhere , to tell mcu , engine temp ,
Buy a LM34DZ or sim to SET this DIY thermometer .
I was amased at how close it tracks , I did this 20 years ago
a Honda car , i put an LM34DZ in place of the cheap transistor
it tracked perfectly ,,,
back to TACH , RPM , any IC Chip that can dual slope ,
de entigrate , , the circuit integrates the crank sensor ....
at idle , integrator gets a well shaped pulse , integrates
it , yet
the fixed deintegrate dischages the energy just integrated , to
little volt , out , but at high RPM , the pulses are arriving so
dominate the integrator , to raise its DC output , aka Dual
Or , just buy a LM2907 from Jamemco for $1. 09 .. Its the
famous TACH chip .
But youll need many poles aka magnets on the crank , maybe 6 ,
so that the 2907 will give accurate DC out at engine
idle , no problem
at 7000 rpm , the LM2907 easily does this engine speed ,
i have many low cost Japan gensets , and ill also be carb-
B18b Accura engines , in airplanes , The B18B and B18C are
strong buillt racing engines , yet you can start a project ,,
at $800 ea from Canada ! Its an opportunity !
My project is a 1500 HP ( B18b times 6 ) pusher prop , bi
with folding wings , it fits into a hanger HOLE 9.5 feet
tall by 9 foot
wide . Upper wing moves , inflight , forward for weight
and balance ,
for take off and landing ,
Its floats fold down , then away and up , to allow landing gear
to deploy , Turbo'd engines have variable intake cam timing
nix need for waste gate , Thanks to Mr Atkison "cycle" ,
the turbo to level out the unwanted variations in induction
breathing , especially at high altitude , where the intake cam is
to aide in compressing the thin air , yet at low altitude
cruise , the compression is very low ( cam is retarded up to 60
, just high enuf to make the Turbo work at max effeciency .
ignition is a magneto on crank , producing high voltage to a
coil , again ,,, Home Depot curly CFl lites , give the
to drive the home made ign coil , 12vdc systems are bad , you
step down the system voltage from magneto to charge
But for lack of transistors , our cars use 15 vdc
i dont know how to use firstname.lastname@example.org
yet i created it , its closed , invite only ,
send email address , ill TRY to figure out how to add it ,
any help appreciated ... It wont be boring ,
everything from computers , Linux , Forth , WXP , to
Nintendo DSL controllers to , cars trucks , sand buggies
with motorcycles , motorized bike engines ,
MIG TIG welder power supplies using Flourescent bulbs ,
DIY Plasma cutters ,
Hydraulic pump powered air compressors , they're more effecient ,