Gorton Mastermil model 1-22

Hello everyone, whoever the hell I may be (lol), I need help for my friend Ed,
he runs his own low-tech metal shop of machining and welding services and
does not have internet, he gave me a really low price on a minor peice of work
so I offered my help in asking in here, about his problem.
Recently he bought the upright mill, Gorton Mastermil 1-22 and it is HUGE!
Purple accented! He got it from Raytheon and it has a makeshift electric
control box that needs repair, he can get that done but a source for parts would
be nice to know about.Need a new reverse control switch, and the electrical
innards re-assembled. Large motor on top runs fine but needs "genuine" 3-phase
hook-up, to put it mildly, not a real problem.
Important stuff:
What he needs to know is about the collets and collet holding system in detail,
he want to switch from whatever it is to R8, like his smaller (large) mill-drill
uses, Does anyone know anything about it? Can the collet holding system be
replaced with currently available or commonly available used parts?
Current tool holding collet shape, circular:
_______
/ \ top camfor/bevel (camfer?)
| | here approx. OD is 1 3/4" or so, maybe less
| |
-------------------
| | | | approx. OD is 2 1/2" with two opposing 1/3"
cutouts, 1/4" deep, both sides
------------------- and approx 3/8" thick, sticks-out maybe 3/8" as a rim all
around
\ / no straight here, cone top flush to the middle
section
\ /
\ cone /
\ /
\ /
| |
| | straight, approx 5/8" OD and approx. 5/8" long down from the
cone
-------
through-hole top to bottom
These tool holders are/were sold by Enco and made in Poland, but the box
does not say what type of collet it is. He would need a new collet holding
system for the head.
Please help, thanks very much,
Alex
Reply to
AArDvarK
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cutouts, 1/4" deep, both sides
Easy:
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the manuals are here. Manual shows possible tapers as B&S 9 or 10, (DIN2080) ISO30 or 40; your drawing looks line an ISO 30 adapter (if the 2 1/2" OD part is solid and not split around the circumference then it's almost certainly ISO30). Martin
Reply to
Martin Whybrow
That's correct, there is no groove routing around the circumference of the outer rim, thanks!
Alex
Reply to
AArDvarK
To further emphasize, does anyone know how Ed would replace the current collet system (ISO 30-40 thanks to Martin) with an R8 system?
Alex
Reply to
AArDvarK
Congratulations on your friend buying one of the finest mills ever made. The 1-22 makes a Bridgeport look like it was made of silly putty.
Did I mention that I have one? I do not however have a power feed unit :( When I can scrounge up one for a Bridgeport/clone, Ill adapt mine and install it. I cant help you with the power feed.
I do however have a couple copies of the manual. Parts list, electrical etc etc.
I put a VFD on mine as mine is the step pulley version and its Da Bomb for all work. Taps great too
If its like Most of them..its standard 30 Taper.
30 taper is head and hands better than R8, and is commonly available. You may use virtually all 30 taper tool holders, NMTB, Cat 30, etc etc by simply making a new draw bar. One uses 3/8-16 thread and the other is 1/2-13. Lots of it on Ebay
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cutouts, 1/4" deep, both sides
I do have some surplus 30 taper tooling Im taking to the Visalia show, including some collet holders, an Original Gorton 30 taper Quick Change setup with tool holders etc.
Its one hell of a mill. The only down side is the quill has a fairly short travel and this means if you are doing tall work, even with the table all the way down..its hard to get a drill chuck and a long drill bit in there.
So I got a set of collet drill holders
Any questions, feel free to email, call, send a homing pigeon, etc
Gunner, 805-732-5308
"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman Liebmann
Reply to
Gunner
You dont. And shouldnt.
The difference is that of a volkswagon (R8) and a Dodge Ram (30 taper)
Gunner
"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman Liebmann
Reply to
Gunner
Well ... if it is an ISO 30 (also NMTB 30 and a few other designations), then the actual tapered part is the same as the taper on an R8 collet -- and the size is right -- except for the bore to clear the larger shank of the R8 collet.
I, personally, would keep it as a 30-taper, as I feel those to be more rigid than R8 collets -- and certainly a better grip on an endmill. (I have a Bridgeport Series-I CNC machine which uses the 30-taper, and a Nichols horizontal mill which uses the 40-taper, and which can (and does at need) accept 30-taper tooling with an adaptor sleeve.
If it is a 40-taper instead, there might be enough room to accept the shank of an R8 in an adaptor.
One thing which I would *not* do is just start boring the spindle out to clear an R8 shank, as you *might* wind up cutting into the mounting surface for the spindle bearings.
Good Luck, DoN.
Reply to
DoN. Nichols
Thank you thank you thank you!!!!!!!!!! Ive been looking for a manual for my 0-16A
Bravo!
Did I say thank you?
Thanks!
Gunner
"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman Liebmann
Reply to
Gunner
Well, you are in 1000 oaks, he is in Carpinteria as am I, so I'll print your reply and give it to him today. You two can collaborate. He does a lot of work for racing cars and motorcycles, no cnc stuff.
Really great reply,
Alex
Reply to
AAvK
Excellent, thanks and your reply will be printed for him to read, he might call you, I don't know.
Alex
Reply to
AAvK
...and, Ed only paid $500 for it...what a deal. saw one online for $4,000. Alex
Reply to
AAvK

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