Hacksaw frames

If I were you I would totally ignore this link. The "Hacksaw" is NOT a hacksaw! The coping saw section does not tell you to have the teeth facing backwards as it should. Same goes for a Fretsaw and bent rod type mini hacksaw IMHO.

Actually, the reason dates back to the early wood-framed saws: in order to keep the wood frame from distorting, de-tensioning the saw would eliminate the reshaping of the frame.

The practice carried forward into the early metal-framed saws for the same reason: to avoid putting a "bow" in the back of the frame and/or bending the frame on an adjustable-length frame.

It's still a good practice for cheap saws - including such non-metalworking items as Coping and Bow saws.

Mark sez: "most things that are in the range of a 32-tooth blade can be cut far more easily with tin snips or a shear :-)"

Yeah, but . . . you can kill flys with a cannon but it is a lot less elegant than a flyswatter.

Bob Swinney

Follow the 3 tooth

blades. Leave the

Mark Rand (18 tpi and 14tpi in my frames) RTFM

Same as with bandsaw blades, high tension on hacksaw blades serves to keep them cutting straight. Everyone needs more than ONE hacksaw, I just swap frames instead of playing around with swapping blades when I need finer or coarser. Lenox makes both a decent blade and a decent frame, there are other makes. Stanley makes one with an arched back that fits in odd spaces, great for whacking leaky pipes under the sink.

12" is my normal blade size, 10" have their uses, too, like where you can't get a 12" frame in the space. Also fit some tool boxes better. I've inherited a dozen or so frames, most are the old-style jobbies that have notches on the back for adjusting for 10" or 12" blades. Using one of those is downright painful after using one of the modern ones. I can gang multiple blades on them, though, for cutting wide slots.

Stan

there is a hand hacksaw frame that was originally made by Sandvik but is now cloned quite often. it has a rectangular tubular back with a casting at both ends. one a simple front part, the rear a handpiece with a blade tensioner that screws up into the handgrip.

I have found the Sandvik type to be a significant improvement over the older bent oval profile tube type.

Stealth Pilot

;-)

rule.http://sawdustmaking.com/Hand%20Saws/saws.htm>

video he says,

*COPPER* was a long url so I borrowed one of Tiny's.

Thanks for the info. Google wouldn't let me post on this link when I tried in the past. Karl

ith 12 inch blades, no 10 inch capability like some of

I like the high tension frames and use them most all of the time.

I also keep at least one adjustable frame around as I use screw slotting blades on occasion, and they only come in 8" lengths. Pretty handy blades, and they save having to set up the mill for just a few screws.

John Martin

I assume they have no set?

No set, but ground with a slight taper - thickest at the cutting edge. Four or more different thicknesses.

I don't see them in the latest Starrett catalog, so it looks as though they may have been discontinued.

John Martin

On Fri, 23 May 2008 22:43:29 -0700 (PDT), with neither quill nor qualm, John Martin quickly quoth:

Let's hope nobody in the world ever makes another slotted screw. I hate 'em and still have my boyhood scars to prove it. Robertson and torx are my faves, followed by hex, pozi, and phillips.

More times than I can count, I have saved the day by cutting a slot across a stuck screw (usually a munged Phillips) and then backing it out with a plain 'ole screwdriver.

Vaughn

On Sat, 24 May 2008 04:33:30 -0700 in rec.crafts.metalworking, Larry Jaques wrote,

How do you cut the heads?

On Sat, 24 May 2008 11:54:11 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "Vaughn Simon" quickly quoth:

I suppose an emergency could warrant their use, but only then. ;)

A firearm would look odd with your choices of screws.

Wes

On Sat, 24 May 2008 19:29:48 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, Wes quickly quoth:

Yeah, the heads would likely have to be slightly larger. But they wouldn't take a $145 set of blade screwdrivers to work 'em, either.

When I bought "lifetime guaranteed" screw drivers from Lee Valley, I asked if the guarantee would apply to the Phillips ones since I would never use them to drive screws, only to remove them. Gerry :-)} London, Canada

On Sun, 25 May 2008 17:14:02 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, Gerald Miller quickly quoth:

They'd have been confiscated by the CNSC ("Canadian Nuclear Safety Commission" to us USAtians) Gerry, because you'd have given them a very long half-life. That has to be dangerous, right?

I just answered my own question: House of Tools had a super-duper high-tension-rubber-comfort handles frame for sale. I used it for the first time today and the difference with a 18 tpi blade is remarkable. Where have these things been all my life?