Heavy duty cable soldering?

Forklift connectors soldering.
I have an electric forklift. The two cables that come from the battery array goes into a connection block. On one of the connectors on this the cable has come
loose from the actual metal connector. You can tell the joint has created some heat in the past.
My question how do I solder a heavy study cable back onto the metal connector? The only things I've soldered before are light circuit board stuff. I don't think my little 20Watt solder iron is going to get hot enough as the heavy copper cable will most likely take the heat away faster than I can supply it.
I have a small propane/mapp gas burner torch that can be used for brazing will this be suitable with just normal solder.
Any advice please.
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are these the plastic connector that push together in a straight line ?
I forget the name , but usually they have a straight lug for each cable in the plastic housing
all the ones I have seen were both crimped and soldered
and a map gas type enzymatic will do just fine
use acid free solder though,
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williamhenry wrote:

Anderson connectors.

A fair few of the aftermarket ones are crimped strain relief with a grubscrew clamp for the conductor.
Never been sure of how safe they are for high current (the grubscrew ones that is) - I've been looking at using one to run a 12V winch and don't much fancy sticking 350A through it.
P.
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I've never used these connectors but I have used dinse connectors when making welding cable extensions. These used a grub screw but importantly always had a ferrule to place over the wire so the grub screw bore on the ferrule and didn't damage the wire.
Paul S. Brown wrote:

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What's that Lassie? You say that Paul S. Brown fell down the old rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue by Mon, 06 Sep 2004 20:44:17 +0100:

I's use a crimped or soldered anderson SB-350 for that. In the forklifts that I drove at my last job, they could take 600 amp peak loads.
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When I do things like this I use an acetlyene/air torch, but the propane one would be just fine. If the heat source is too small you tend to cook the wire insulation because it takes a long time to get things up to temperature. The one thing to watch for is that stranded wire will wick the solder away from the joint if you keep feeding it in.
One way to prevent the capllary action from doing this is to a) place heat shrink tubing over the wire, b) strip it back a bit farther than it needs to be, c) clamp a hemostat or small visegrip on the wire which will prevent the solder from wicking beyond the grabbed region, and then d) slip the tubing over the extra exposed bit and shrink in place after the joint is done. Depending on the size of the wire you might not have any trouble with this however.
Jim
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Clean the components. Coat the metal lug socket and cable with flux. Heat the eye of the connector with a propane flame until solder inserted between the cable and lug begins to flow in. Continue feeding the solder and regulating the heat until joint appears full. Be careful to support the assembly prior to soldering so it can't move while it cools. JR Dweller in the cellar
David Cawkwell wrote:

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On Mon, 06 Sep 2004 19:33:12 GMT, "David Cawkwell"

Anderson Powerpole connectors. http://www.andersonpower.com /

Oh, youbetcha - a 20W iron won't even get it warm. They make soldering irons in the 150W - 200W range that can do it (and even then it will take a while on the 175A and larger sizes) but they look more like a big club.

A propane/air torch should be plenty hot enough, but you don't want to use regular solder, as the Powerpole connector is silver plated. I would use a high percentage silver bearing solder, so if any slops out of the cup and onto the mating area it won't degrade the mating surface too much.
Get a fresh contact terminal and clamp it into a vise with the cup and wire end up to work on it.
I read through the Anderson book a few weeks ago - Ideally, you get a special four-indent crimper and mechanically crimp the wire into the terminal cup before you solder it for best conductivity - that way it can't heat up and come apart. But you don't have to.
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