I have a Chinese 12x36 geared-head lathe with an oil leak from the seal on the end of the shaft that drives the quadrant gear train. I figured I could get to the seal by removing the cover, so I removed the three cap-head screws and started levering it off with a couple of screw-drivers. I can get it off enough to insert the legs of a puller behind it, but the cover won't come off. It appears to come to a hard stop and I'm afraid of exerting even more pressure encase I break something. It feels as though there is a circlip behind the seal. The following link shows a photo of the problem.
Drive a drywall screw, or other self tapping screw into the edges of the seal.
Pull with pliers.
You will need either the numbers (all of them) off the seal, or at the very least the dimensions, three of them. Inside diameter, outside diameter, and thickness. Metric. Typically whole millimeters, but sometimes halves.
Or take the seal to a bearing and seal place, and try to look pathetic, and the counter guy will likely be able to help you out.
Counter guys in these places get a lot of that, and generally know their business better than the retard teenagers hired to run the parts counter in most chain stores.
For starters, Harbour Freight supplied a manual with mine and I'd guess you can buy a copy from them. HF's part number for this manual is: SKU 33274. It does have exploded views of everything, complete with part numbers. If yer gonna be working on this it'd be a good idea to have one handy. Sorry, I don't have a scanner.
And yes, there is a circlip on th' back side of that. I'd guess it's accessible from inside th' headstock casting, via popping off th' top cover.
Th' specification on that outer seal is listed as: PD20 x 45. Behind it, inside that cover, are three more oil seals. Spec on those is:
0.5mm. FWIW, th' part number as per th' exploded view diagram on pg.
18 in th' manual is 57 for th' outer oil seal and 62 for th' three inners.
That drywall screw trick Trevor Jones mentioned will work for th' outer seal, but it's hard to tell by th' diagram what those three inner oil seals look like, might be press fit .
Oh yeah, while you have th' top cover off check th' gear engagements of th' spindle and lead/feed gears. Those can be engaged with less than 10% of contact and can prematurely wear those gears accordingly. There are some adjustments for those, but what I ended up doing was making corresponding witness marks on th' levers and face plate to get them exact.
There's a *lot* of travel within th' ABC and 123 markings. You might think that if yer dead center in A and 1 that's gonna be th' correct engagement... wasn't even close. Now when I line up A to my witness marks it's engaging as fully as possible, but th' handle is damn near on th' line separating A & B.
On Sun, 28 Oct 2007 12:29:02 +0000, with neither quill nor qualm, lemel_man quickly quoth:
I'd be willing to bet that there's a snap ring directly behind the oil seal, holding the shaft where it is and preventing the housing from coming off. I'd button her back up and use a slide hammer puller with a sheetmetal screw to pull that seal, then match it up at the local industrial supply house.
-- We have to fight them daily, like fleas, those many small worries about the morrow, for they sap our energies. -- Etty Hillesum
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