Assuming no counterbore and space is not a problem, how do you
choose between hex head and hex socket head ?
I've noticed that hex head screws are commonly available up to
property class 8.8 while hex socket head screws go up to 12.9.
Why is that ?
Socket head screws are higher tech, and look more impressive. All the
racers will think better of you if you use socket head screws _everywhere_.
But you'll have to get some wrenches, 'cause vice-grips don't work as
well on socket-head screws.
What Tim said. And SHCS's require far less tool
clearance. BTW, If you want to get the full specified
strength from a SHCS boltup, be sure to do the little
chamfer where the through hole opens up into the counter-
bore. Details in Machinery's Handbook.
space is not a problem, how do you
Absofrigginlutely. Back in the days when I was turning wrenches for a
living at a motorcycle shop in the Bronx (1974), the two most popular
jobs we did were drilling holes in exhast baffles to make Jap bikes
sound "better," and replacing all the phillips head screws with socket-
head screws. Both were totally cosmetic, but hey, if the jerks
^H^H^H^H^H customers were willing to pay...
Slightly off-topic...
There's lots of hardcore biking where I live and the
$100 seats are theft targets. The bicycle shops have
been supergluing a bearing ball in the head of the
SHCS that tightens the seat clamp to discourage casual
theft. Hitting the SHCS with a torch for a few seconds
causes the ball to drop out.
> (...)
>
>> and replacing all the phillips head screws with socket-
>> head screws. Both were totally cosmetic, but hey, if the jerks
>> ^H^H^H^H^H customers were willing to pay...
>
> I have yet to 'cam out' my first hex socket head
> cap screw. Phillips are a different story however.
>
> :)
>
> --Winston
I used to drag race years ago. The sanctioning body banned the used of
socket head capscrews in shear applications, supposedly the higher grade
bolts were more brittle and failed in shear.
Several years back, I purchased some "guaranteed for life"
screwdrivers. I asked if the guarantee applied to the Philips drivers
since I would never use them to drive, only to remove Philips head
fasteners.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
>
> (...)
>
> > and replacing all the phillips head screws with socket-
> > head screws. Both were totally cosmetic, but hey, if the jerks
> > ^H^H^H^H^H customers were willing to pay...
>
> I have yet to 'cam out' my first hex socket head
> cap screw. =A0Phillips are a different story however.
>
> :)
>
> --Winston
>> rangerssuck wrote:
>> (...)
>>
>>> and replacing all the phillips head screws with socket-
>>> head screws. Both were totally cosmetic, but hey, if the jerks
>>> ^H^H^H^H^H customers were willing to pay...
>>
>> I have yet to 'cam out' my first hex socket head
>> cap screw. Phillips are a different story however.
>>
>> :)
>>
>> --Winston
[ ... ]
A common problem -- because the right size Phillips driver
*looks* too big. If you can't train people to feel for minimum slack in
the fit of the bit to the screw slot, you will have a lot of munged
heads and bits.
Enjoy,
DoN.
I despise Phillips head screws. Try taking out the one on a
Salt Belt car's headlight rim...^%(*%^%^^(^
I prefer Torx; one of the very few good inventions of Generous Motors.
Hmmm... I don't think Torx drive fasteners were GM's baby. They just use
them a lot. Check this:
formatting link
For the record, I really like this drive system as well. I don't ever
recall having a Torx issue, other than the occasional need to clean
spooge and/or paint from screw heads.
Erik
You must live where salt on the roads isn't a Big Deal. I've lost
track of how many hex socket and Torx heads have rusted out to a sort-
of-round hole. Philips just rust out to a dimple. One reason for the
existance of needle-nose visegrips. Cars and trucks more than a few
years old look like metal mice have been nibbling on them.
Stan
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