i have a need, the only one in 20yrs, for thread lock and
hate to buy a tube that will never get used again.
has anyone here come up with something common as a substitute?
something that can still be disassembled? thanks! --Loren
ps. it won't be under vibration.
If they're steel.......use salt water......
Sven, a toolmaker at my first workplace whom I grew to know and respect
, used that trick when he'd reamed a dowel pin hole a smidgen oversize.
He got some salt from the lunch table, wet the parts with salt water and
rammed the pin home. A few days later that pin would be, (his woirds)
"As tight as a bull's arse in fly season."
I remember learning somewhere that iron oxide occupies more space than
the iron it's made from. That's a pretty good explanation for why stuff
rusts up so damn tight.
Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"If you can keep smiling when things go wrong, you've thought of someone
to place the blame on."
Sure, this is my secret recipe:
First off, begin disassembling a critical device out
in the garage, right before it's going to either
drop into the teens, or start pouring monsoon rain.
Then while re-assembling the item you have to drop
one of the irreplacium fasteners into the pile
of leaf debris, grit, concrete dust, and depending on
the season, mud snow or ice.
The most important part of this is to be absolutely
SURE that the fastener in question is fully greased
Then go down in the shop and search for an hour for
a new replacement fastener. Not forthcoming, of
Then spend two more hours sifting thru the garage
floor to find the one you just lost. By the
time it's found the temperature will be below the
teens and/or the flooding will have commenced.
Install fastener immediately, while it is coated with
the patented, all purpose Rozen-Loc (tm) which absolutely
fixes the fastener permanently in place - removeable
only with dynamite.
Seriously though you can get a tiny tube of red locktite
at any hardware or autopart store, single application.
Use it, throw the rest out. That stuff really really
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
I'm going to get laughed at or boo'd ... I just know it.
Use clear fingernail polish. I've used it quite a few times in a
pinch for eyeglasses and other small screw assemblies. I've never
tried it on anything bigger because I had LockTite.
Plus, the really, really neat thing about loctite is that you can leave
it for future generations, and it'll be just as good as ever when the
mole-people dig it up in 8 thousand years.
(well, at least a few decades)
If it's in the bottle with some air, it doesn't go off.
Lock-tite comes in different grades, depending on whether you plan to
disassemble it later, and also on how much clearance you are dealing with.
Naturally, anything you come up with on your own will not match your
requirements as well as the real stuff, but I have used:
shellac, CA glue, paint, printers ink, whatever is handy. They all work,
more or less.
If it's just for basic thread locking work (ie to stop someting unthreading
without the application of tools) then I've had success using:
CA (Krazy glue I think it's called in US),
Nail polish (most colours except the metallics due to the glitter in it),
PVA (white glue),
Dope (Nitrocellouse - used in model aricraft applications)..
Another option is to consider slightly upsetting one of the threads with a
light touch with a centre punch etc
I remember reading about a feedwater heater used
in a marine application. They said the seams were
rust sealed, by applying a paste of sal ammoniac
to the mating surfaces then bolting them together.
Sounds dreadful but must have worked at least until
some poor bastard had to disassemble it.
Even the toughest of tattooed bikies carries a small bottle of nail
varnish - not because they like to paint their nails and look sexy - but to
use as screw lock on their Harleys. Now this is where I might be dead wrong,
but I think the American bikes still use imperial threads which have coarser
threads and thus shake loose quicker than metric threads in those faster but
soul-less jap bikes. This should start a good fight.
( yes, I can hear cowboy movie punches and windows smashing at the roadhouse
I have often used the fingernail polish thing, as well as spray paint
or sometimes just center punching and deforming a thread.
Visit my website: Remove nospam for correct address
Contents: foundry and general metal working and lots of related projects.
Roy aka Chipmaker // Foxeye
Opinions are strictly those of my wife....I have had no input whatsoever.
Remove nospam from email address
Yep. I used to race dirt bikes. A bunch of the riders had a cheap, readily
available solution to the loose nut problem. We found that the weather
stripping cement made by 3M (we called it "Gorilla Snot" as it was yellow),
applied to the outside of the nut/bolt head, gave us both an indication of
the item turning and a bunch of security. I never lost a bolt/nut when
using "Gorilla Snot". I have continue to use it on my personal helicopter.
Wrong! i _have_ nail polish, clear. doesn't every rcm'r? i will just
put it on the cap for a start, never tried it on threads.
the staking thing is good for future ref., but not suitable here, an
aluminum storm door. wrt sugar/oil, that's new to me, will file it
with this post. thanks to you guys(!), & Happy Holidays, --Loren
On Sat, 29 Nov 2003 20:01:51 -0700, "Randy Quanstrom"
brought forth from the murky depths:
Heat melts sugar.
CAUTION: Do not use remaining fingers as pushsticks!