horizontal mill bearing

Normally they ( bushing ) are bronze or brass, with a tapered OD, and = are slitted once lengthwise--and they mount into a corresponding tapered = hole in the outboard support......usually, there is a key slot and pin = to keep them from rotating and there is also an adjusting nut that = serves to draw it deeper into the taper thus reducing the inside = diameter as the nut is tightened.

There will also be provisions for lubrication, toilet seat and wick, or = an actual hollowed out reservouir in the housing along with a bulls-eye = sight glass and fill plug.

In use, you want to adjust for a thousands or so of oil clearance, maybe = a 8little less but be careful--if you get it too tight or go without = sufficient lubrication then things can go to hell pretty quick.

You need a "sleeve" ( which is the name of the part that that mounts = onto the arbor itself ) for each arbor size that you want to run, IE one = with with a 1.5 hole, one with a 1-1/4 hole and so forth...

FWIW, it's even better if have a pair of supports....

"overarm support" + "milling machine" is probably going to be your best = bet so far as keyword searches are concerned....

Suggest leave final boring for the very last, and finishing in-place if = possible--install into the support and then, using a criterion type head = in the mill spindle and mounting it close-in, feed the entire overarm = towards the boring head by pushing it along with the table cross = feed....

THANK YOU. Very informative. Bit more to this than I thought. (There always is)

Karl

My small Vernon just has a brass/bronze bearing with a drilled-through oil passage. No adjustment.

This tip saved me time. I just picked up a unit to modify on ebay:

Karl