How to build a chip tray for a lathe stand?

I'm looking to build a lathe stand for my 7" swing lathe. I'd like to do a good job of it, but I've no experience building a stand for precision machinery. It seems simple enough, but I'm concerned about flatness and warping from welding which will affect the lathe and its alignment. I'm most likely over-thinking this, but I've previously worked with large items where sub .001 precision isn't a factor.

My initial thought is to start with a flat plate, 1/16" or 3/32" seems thick enough to resist bending from items placed on it. Cut it with an elongated octagonal outline so that there are no sharp corners to run body parts into. Then add a 1" vertical or so lip at some angle (45 degrees seems good) of the same material. That edge will be rounded to avoid sharp edges. That seems to look like most chip-trays I've seen in photos. Add a one or two holes with and a threaded bush for a oil/fluid/coolant drain. And some strainer in the chip tray to keep the chips out of same.

It seems that all the welding and heating on such thin material is likely to produce warping, bowing, and other distortion. So, it seems I'll have to isolate the lathe from the chip tray. My current idea is to cut rectangular slots in the flat plate where the lathe feet are. Into these slots would be welded "feet" which protrude both above and below the flat bottom of the tray. The feet both provide the necessary elevation to keep the lathe off the bottom of the tray, and to provide points to mount the chip tray to the lathe stand. That way the lathe stand will control the quality of the lathe mount, not the chip tray.

I can simplify the above my just welding the bar-stock "feet" to the chip tray before welding on the lip ... which is most likely to cause the distortion which would upset the lathe.

From the amount of writing above, this seems complete overkill for something as simple as a chip-tray... which is why I'm asking for some feedback.

Thanks for any advice

Reply to
Josef Burger
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Typical chip trays are thin material, interposed between the legs (or base) and the actual machine tool. They're so flexible they don't apply any force to speak of to upset the machine alignment. Think 'extra large cookie sheet.'

Jim

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Reply to
jim rozen

Standard procedure that I've seen is to make the stand heavy enough, and the tray light enough that when the machine is bolted down, it's to the stand, and the tray conforms to the stand. I have my 7" X 12" mounted on the stand from an old 12" Craftsman, the top is a 2 X 10 board. Shims where appropriate to avoid warping the bed, and bolts going through the feet, the pan, down through the top. Leveling should be done on the stand first, then make sure that it's not putting strains on the bed of the machine when it's bolted down. The tray should not be carrying the machine, the stand should.

Reply to
Lennie the Lurker

Josef, My Southbend 9" swing lathe came with a flat table commonly seen in electronic labs and other places. Six feet long and three feet wide. Square tubular steel frame and legs that support a Melamine covered MDF top that's 1" thick. It was old as was the lathe and a little wobbly. Tightening the bolts and adding some angle iron cross braces on the ends stiffened up the table nicely. I went to Wal*Mart and bought a 4'x2' (approx) galvanised steel pan with a rolled up edge intended for use under a leaky car as a chip/drip tray for a few bucks. I leveled (carpenters level) the table, drilled new holes in the top for bolting down the lathe where I wanted it as well as throught the chip tray. To make leveling the lathe easier I bought two hot rolled steel plates about 9" square and 1/4" thick and drilled those for the lathe mounting pattern and a bolt in each corner for mounting the plates. I shim between the plate and the feet of the lathe to level the lathe using a machinist level across and along the ways. Works very well and is very sturdy. Any sturdy work bench design of wood or steel construction should do for this size lathe. Good luck.

Bill

Reply to
Bill Schoenbeck

seems thick enough to resist bending from items placed on it. Cut it with an elongated octagonal outline so that there are no sharp corners to run body parts into. Then add a 1" vertical or so lip at some angle (45 degrees seems good) of the same material. That edge will be rounded to avoid sharp edges. That seems to look like most chip-trays I've seen in photos. for precision machinery. It seems simple enough, but I'm concerned

Reply to
Keith Marshall

Thank you and the others for setting me down a more sensible track. aving only seen photos of chip trays I assumed that they were rather thick. The explanation of the thinner material with rolled edge is more sensible.

Thanks to all for the notes on construction of chip trays, ideas, and where to look to find some items that may work well.

Bolo

Reply to
Josef Burger

You can often find galvanized trays of various sizes. They are often used to set a machine tool, or an air conditioner or genset, In, so any leakage doesnt get on the floor. A smaller one would be a handy chip tray all by itself.

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Plastic ones
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Gunner

That rifle hanging on the wall of the working-class flat or labourer's cottage is the symbol of democracy. It is our job to see that it stays there. - George Orwell

Reply to
Gunner

Good luck getting a order from Harbor Freight. I ordered from them a month ago and so far all I've received in return is lie after lie. Now they're telling me it might take another month before they ever even admit they didn't send me my order. They have my money. I have a handful of hot air. They're lying scum at Harbor Freight.

Reply to
Me

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