Looking for source

Dave Philips wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@reece.net.au:

The best place to look may be your local heating/cooling contractor.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX Hey Dave,

Only because you asked for sheet stainless. I wouldn't do it with that, but try here:

Take care.

Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario.

Big thanks for the quick replies....those are good prices at Aircraftspruce. I bought a corrugated stainless 6" diameter chiminey section from my local heating & AC company.....very very expensive.

When I installed it, I built the square/round transition with galvanized furnace vent sheetmetal. It lasted 4 years and rusted out. Brian...what would you suggest as a better material than stainless?

Thanks!

Dave

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Hey Dave,

Well, it's a material that you have to form in the right place the right way the first time. Work hardening after that causes problems. and it then subject to the same stresses when you heat and cool it in use, so tends to crack. I don't know what material is used in the "Selkirk" type round insulated pipe sections, but there the need for stainless is apparently to try to stop the acidic losses in use, and they have a history of failure from the freezing cycles they go through, allowing the insulation material to leak out.

Plain old galvanized works pretty good, and is an historically acceptable material. I don't know what actual use you intend to put this too, but be aware that if you make something out of an unusual material, and there is a fire (for instance) that your insurer may not take kindly to what you did.

I managed to delete your original post, but I believe you said that the galvanized piece you already had only lasted four years. There must be some reason for that to occur, and maybe you should look further into that. One problem that the galvanized material can suffer from is a chemical reaction which occurs if there is any of the propellant gases from say a paint spray-can drawn in to the stack. Watch out for that.

Take care. Good luck.

Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario.

Thanks Brian. I'm using it to make a circular-to-rectangular transition to connect a fireplace insert to a 6" stainless flue liner. The fireplace insert has a round flange for connection to a flue, but the pipe needs to thread through a fireplace damper to get to the stainless flue liner. I was able to form the stainless flue liner into a rectangular shape to mate up with the transition before I installed it into the chimney.

The need for stainless is as you guessed....to mitigate erosion from the acids of combustion. Our fire codes give stainless a strong blessing so I don't think there will be an insurance issue, but thanks for the advice to check. The Chim-flex folks base their whole product on attributes of stainless steel so I should be pretty safe. It is just really expensive...but Aircraftspruce seems to be a great source.

Big thanks, Dave

Thanks Brian. I'm using it to make a circular-to-rectangular transition to connect a fireplace insert to a 6" stainless flue liner. The fireplace insert has a round flange for connection to a flue, but the pipe needs to thread through a fireplace damper to get to the stainless flue liner. I was able to form the stainless flue liner into a rectangular shape to mate up with the transition before I installed it into the chimney.

The need for stainless is as you guessed....to mitigate erosion from the acids of combustion. Our fire codes give stainless a strong blessing so I don't think there will be an insurance issue, but thanks for the advice to check. The Chim-flex folks base their whole product on attributes of stainless steel so I should be pretty safe. It is just really expensive...but Aircraftspruce seems to be a great source.

Big thanks, Dave