Same general idea as the other fellow's spring loaded Delrin. Both outstanding ideas.
When I used to use holesaw and a hand held drill. I found that if I wobbled the drill a lot, the plug didn't stick as much. Wider kerf.
Of course, that doesn't apply here.
Him, and the Delrin suggestion.
Hey, wait! You guys are all in the penalty box until someone flames.
That, with a vacuum cleaner nozzle nearby to catch the chips.
--Howzabout using a plunge router and a template?
Reduce the shank on a 1 1/16" 4-6 flute endmill and spin it pretty fast with an easy downfeed. If endmill and work have no flex..should work pretty well. And fast
Gunner\
One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that, in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid. Gunner Asch
What's that Lassie? You say that Joe AutoDrill fell down the old rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue by Thu, 1 Jul 2010 13:37:23 -0400:
If you don't need a pilot hole to guide the hole saw, then you may be able to get away with a half hole saw. Just take a hole saw, and grind away a little more than half of it. That should keep it from holding onto the slug. You will need to adjust the feed rate and you may need to add some weight to keep it in balance depending on your spindle.
My major problem when working with the materials you describe is cracking or shredding, leaving you a raggedy edge. I would use a fine tooth hole saw, and just take out the cutting between cuts. You may be able to stack more than one piece at a time, and this would help if you can keep all the sheets from shifting and making your cut untrue.
Let us know what works.
Steve
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